DKM Scharnhorst 1943 - 1/350 Dragon Kit + extras

[Guest]

Thanks Ron, and welcome back, hope you had a great holiday.


Finished drilling out the Hull port holes and fitting the Deck. The first photo shows the lack of definition of the port holes and the second shows the improvement. Note the third photo of the Scharnhorst's anchor way, comparing it to the previous photo it is much more rounded so some cosmetic surgery is necessary.


[ATTACH]120674.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]120676.IPB[/ATTACH]



The deck was a good fit, the slots previously mentioned in the diaphragms helped with the fit. There is a gap between the two deck sections, I checked the deck housing fit beforehand and there is no problem with this gap. I will sand down some 1x2mm Evergreen strip and fill it in.


[ATTACH]120672.IPB[/ATTACH]



Cheers Derek

[ATTACH]120673.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]120675.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Guest]

Thank you for all the updates, Derek. These look fantastic, great work!

[Guest]

The Anchor Way set me a few problems as regards its geometry. A lot of modellers I found when Googling tend to build up this area to a bulbous shape. I am not convinced that this is correct. If you look at the first two photos, to me there is no deviation from the hull plate plane. I may be wrong but that's what I am going for, so the last two photos show the results. Dragon have obviously got the position of the port holes wrong as they are too high.


[ATTACH]121592.IPB[/ATTACH]



I wanted to investigate what impact the 1mm error Dragon made regarding deck lengths had on the superstructure, so I made up the basic first level of the three superstructure sections.


The first section Detail 13 on the plans had a few points to note.


For Item N28 read N28+N30


For Item N30 read N30+N31


Be careful of your assembly sequence, K3 has to slip into the tapered sections of K22+K25 and K23+K26


I like to drill out the port holes as I did with the hull.


There are four doors, to fit the kit comes with the option of plastic or brass, I chose brass as the detail is better. But the doorway is hollowed out so a I used a very small amount of blue tack to hold the brass in position whilst I apply thin CA.


[ATTACH]121590.IPB[/ATTACH]



This photo shows the first level of all three superstructures in position.


[ATTACH]121589.IPB[/ATTACH]



This photo shows an error on the kit where the margin rail has been missed out, and I have used some Evergreen to replace it.


[ATTACH]121588.IPB[/ATTACH]



I found it easier to lose the 1mm deck length error between the forward and mid-section of the superstructure, I had to trim the semi-circular deck sections just forward of the pencil. Bear in mind I am using a wooden deck so it is an easy matter to hide the mismatch.


[ATTACH]121587.IPB[/ATTACH]



Derek

[ATTACH]121591.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]121593.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]121594.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]121595.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Guest]

Nice mate......very nice.


Scott

[Guest]

Thanks Scott, it's always nice to get feed back.


The lower Bridge front panel is of clear plastic in order to allow you to mask the windows for painting. I have chosen to drill and file out the windows, I don’t fancy masking such small windows. After painting the model, I may choose to use glazing solution. Similarly I have omitted the clear plastic Item P5, and may use glazing solution instead.


[ATTACH]122072.IPB[/ATTACH]



I have added an Evergreen 1mm x 2mm strip and filed it down to eliminate the 1mm deck gap on the superstructure. Also I have attached the mid and aft sections of the superstructure and reinforced the joints. I will eventually attach the forward superstructure section to the mid-section at a later date.


[ATTACH]122069.IPB[/ATTACH]



Dragon have several unidentified parts, L38 and L40 fits to the sides of L10, also H1 goes under H10.


Have been busy making sub-assemblies; the following photos show the sub-assemblies and a dry fit on each area. I will add the PE to the sub-assemblies next.


[ATTACH]122064.IPB[/ATTACH]



The sub-assemblies have been chosen with fitting the wooden decks and the order of painting in mind. Derek

[ATTACH]122065.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]122067.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]122068.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]122071.IPB[/ATTACH]

[spanner570]

Looking good Derek. I haven't been on for a week, so I'm only now catching up.


Your presentation is top drawer stuff. Thank you for explaining things with some excellent stage pictures.


Re. the anchor way, there is, what appears to be, a shadow cast onto the hull. I reckon there is a bulbous protrusion - almost like a candle wax run, for'ard of the way. Not that it matters one jot...It's how the modeller sees things, not some viewer who knows precious little about such details...i.e., li'l ol' me!


Keep the updates coming, they make for interesting reading.


Ron

[Guest]

For glazing, you can always use PVA glue, it dries clear. I used it for my 1/350 boat builds

[Guest]

Made a start on the PE for the Aft Superstructure. For the larger PE a 'Fold and Bend' tool such as the 4" 'The Small Shop' is very handy. The first photo shows the Tool, also the components for the Scharnhorst's Catapult.


[ATTACH]122356.IPB[/ATTACH]



The MK1 PE is very fragile and snaps easily, not nearly as good as Gold Medal Model PE. The Mk1 instructions have a number of errors, and parts not identified, the kit item U9 is shown 180 Deg. out on the Mk1 instructions, it does not identify where B35 goes (opposite B39).


The handrail contours around objects is sloppy, I have substituted some of my spare handrail from my KGV build to make them tidier.


The Dragon kit does not identify where K73 goes, see the photo, the pencil identifies the item. Item B35 goes to the left of K73.


[ATTACH]122355.IPB[/ATTACH]



Finally a couple of general shots of where I am at with the PE. I still have to clean up some joints.


[ATTACH]122353.IPB[/ATTACH]



As I am off on holiday next week, the shipyard will be shut. Derek

[ATTACH]122354.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]122357.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Guest]

Lots of photo etch, looking good

[spanner570]

Holidays? That's a blow, just when the build was shaping up nicely.


Enjoy your vacation Derek and keep safe.


Ron

[Guest]

A small update.


Made a start on the Stack; Dragon got the baffle identification wrong, but it's pretty obvious when you do a dry fit. MK1 are out in sympathy with Dragon, there have been a few errors with Item numbers, here is another one, they have two C70's where as the lower one should be C35.


[ATTACH]124264.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]124265.IPB[/ATTACH]



Have to remove all the ribs from the Stack Platform for PE. I assume the the steel PE are Ladder walkways.


[ATTACH]124266.IPB[/ATTACH]



The next photo shows the PE parts for the aft section of the Stack Platform, and the ladder walkways added to the Stack.


[ATTACH]124267.IPB[/ATTACH]



Last photo shows the above platform finished.


[ATTACH]124268.IPB[/ATTACH]



I will be moving onto the fwd. section of the Stack Platform. Derek

[geegad]

Back with more mind blowing pe..I fin it hard at 1/35 so couldn't imagine working at this scale with it

[Guest]

Nice clean PE, very impressive

[Guest]

Finally got the Stack finished, I counted 64 pieces of PE. Off to do the boat deck now. Derek

[takeslousyphotos]

Finally got the Stack finished, I counted 64 pieces of PE. Off to do the boat deck now. Derek
[ATTACH]136839[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]136840[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]136841[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]136842[/ATTACH]

Very nice....... I would have thrown the PE at the wall way before I got anywhere near that.