G
With me being new to modelling can I ask what is the difference between plastic and resin kits and figures.
G
The material and production methods 
Plastic kits are made from plastic pellets that are heated and then squirted at high pressure into metal moulds to make the sprues with the parts. This requires an expensive machine and expensive moulds, but is cheap in raw materials and labour, meaning that large runs give you low cost per kit.
Resin kits are made by mixing a two-part synthetic resin, which results in a liquid that will set hard over time. While it’s liquid, it is poured into a rubber mould, and removed once it’s hardened. The moulds are relatively cheap, but it involves a lot of labour to make both the parts and the moulds, because those wear out quickly, and waiting time for the resin to harden. This makes them more expensive per kit for big production runs, but cheaper if you’re only going to make a few hundred or thousand kits.
The difference in materials means they need entirely different techniques, really. You can’t even use the glue for plastic kits on resin, because it won’t stick parts together This because these glues dissolve the plastic so the parts get welded together when the glue evaporates again, but resin doesn’t dissolve in it, so you need superglue, epoxy glue, etc. for it.
Plastic kits are made from plastic pellets that are heated and then squirted at high pressure into metal moulds to make the sprues with the parts. This requires an expensive machine and expensive moulds, but is cheap in raw materials and labour, meaning that large runs give you low cost per kit.
Resin kits are made by mixing a two-part synthetic resin, which results in a liquid that will set hard over time. While it’s liquid, it is poured into a rubber mould, and removed once it’s hardened. The moulds are relatively cheap, but it involves a lot of labour to make both the parts and the moulds, because those wear out quickly, and waiting time for the resin to harden. This makes them more expensive per kit for big production runs, but cheaper if you’re only going to make a few hundred or thousand kits.
The difference in materials means they need entirely different techniques, really. You can’t even use the glue for plastic kits on resin, because it won’t stick parts together
This because these glues dissolve the plastic so the parts get welded together when the glue evaporates again, but resin doesn’t dissolve in it, so you need superglue, epoxy glue, etc. for it.
G
Thank you Jakko for the information most helpful. The reason why I ask is because my wife has bought me a 1/35 MIG Russian tanker figure in resin.
G
If you look at the parts, you’ll see it has only a few, with undercuts and things that you don’t get with plastic parts. This is because the rubber moulds allow more complicated shapes to be cast than in metal moulds.
It also means you often have to remove larger excess bits, so-called pouring plugs, by cutting or sawing them off. Be careful with this, because resin is fairly brittle. It cuts and carves well (like soft, grainless wood, it’s sometimes said) but can also break like glass or pottery. You also don’t want to be breathing in the dust from sawing, filing or sanding it, but slivers cut or scraped from it are not dangerous.
It also means you often have to remove larger excess bits, so-called pouring plugs, by cutting or sawing them off. Be careful with this, because resin is fairly brittle. It cuts and carves well (like soft, grainless wood, it’s sometimes said) but can also break like glass or pottery. You also don’t want to be breathing in the dust from sawing, filing or sanding it, but slivers cut or scraped from it are not dangerous.
Resin can give better definiton than plastic, needs a slightly different approach to assembly, but once the primer is on the paint does the same job.
As Jakko has mentioned sawing the plugs off if the biggest step, a razor saw is really hard to beat for that job, but you can carve them away with care.
As Jakko has mentioned sawing the plugs off if the biggest step, a razor saw is really hard to beat for that job, but you can carve them away with care.
G
Just remember you need CA for gluing Kevin.
Maybe a slow type to get parts completely lined up.
Maybe a slow type to get parts completely lined up.
Also with resin, wash the parts before construction - I know that goes for plastic too, to remove mould release agents
Be aware of how the parts go together as the plugs are often attached to mating surfaces
Be aware of how the parts go together as the plugs are often attached to mating surfaces
Kevin,
If you're sawng resin, take care, the dust is unpleasant stuff, you should wear a proper mask.
Dave
If you're sawng resin, take care, the dust is unpleasant stuff, you should wear a proper mask.
Dave
G
I prefer to use a knife for all but large plugs. If it’s no more than a couple of millimetres thick, you can use a knife to keep scoring the area where the plug attaches to the part until you either get through or go far enough that you can snap the plug off. (Only do that with thick parts, though — try to snap the plug off a thin part and it’s likely the part will break instead or as well.) After that you can clean these parts up by scraping with a knife. All of this avoids creating dust, which is bad for your lungs.
A good alternative when sawing or sanding resin is to put a wet cloth on the worktop as it catches the dust and stops it blowing everywhere.
Modern hard styrene kits don't use mould release.........the old soft type of plastic did and needed washing and the habit just stuck.
Indeed
I always scrub the greasy paw marks off my slabs of resin armour - Just to make sure! Sometimes before AND after
Maybe it's from the time half the paint came off an Airfix multipose figure I was finishing...
I always scrub the greasy paw marks off my slabs of resin armour - Just to make sure! Sometimes before AND after
Maybe it's from the time half the paint came off an Airfix multipose figure I was finishing...
G
Much better than the movie …
I enjoyed the new films as I expected a new "Phantom menace".........
G
Let’s just say I skipped Solo and whatever Episode IX is called …
Not wanting to get into potential flame war about the Abrams Star Wars - Now is neither the time nor place - but if you put all the esoteric jedi-stuff together in one movie, you would have a brilliant film
Or you could watch anything by Tsui Hark...
Or you could watch anything by Tsui Hark...
could you tell that to Fujimi as i am in the middle of one of their kits.....brand new......had a paint reaction which i suspect is due to release agent as i forgot to wash the sprues first
I still say, as hard a habit it is to break, kit cleaning is still a good idea.
Also, I didn't realise Fujimi were still going
Also, I didn't realise Fujimi were still going
I have some 28mm Northstar fantasy figures that come as four identical sprues in a box, three sprues are clean and dry and one is oily to the touch....must be mould release, cant be anything else.
Legal Notice
scalemodelling.co.uk is a privately operated online discussion forum. All content posted by members reflects their own views and opinions and does not necessarily represent those of the forum owners or administrators. While reasonable efforts are made to moderate content, no responsibility is accepted for user-generated material. By using this site, you agree to comply with UK law and the forum rules.