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Revell ( Eduard ) 1/48 Albatros D.III

Thread owner
Allen,
I'm a Yorkshireman! - doing missionary work amongst the Gloucestershire heathens.........................
I'd just completed a Contrail vac-formed Vickers Virginia - and thought I could handle any injection moulded model - 'pride goes before a fall'
Dave
 
Sorry Dave,

I thought you were a Yorkshireman, but went by your location. Was the Maquette kit that bad???

Prost
Allen
 
Love the ply Dave, esp the top of the fuselage, perfect rendition of a rotary cut.
 
Thread owner
Allen,
I suppose the Maquette model was typical of the Eastern European manufacturers, crude, not very accurate & made of poor materials, you had to do a lot of research, and scratch a lot of details - but for obscure models, they were the only game in town
Dave
 
Dave

Congratulations on a lovely job on the wood. It's really come together very well indeed with the decals on.

Good luck with the wings.

ATB

Andrew
 
Thread owner
I'm enjoying this build so much, that I'm starting another build of a Revell reboxing of an older Eduard model, and will post up a new blog.............
Dave
 
I agree on the wood effect Looks great. I’ll make a note of those two paints for future reference.
talking of odd models I just bought another one to add to the stash, Handley Page 0/400
 
Thread owner
Carl,
the HP 0/400 is still a nice model - I seem to remember it was the first biplane I ever rigged, and the first that actually made provision for it - holes already for threading! Something I hadn't come across before!
Dave
 
Carl,
the HP 0/400 is still a nice model - I seem to remember it was the first biplane I ever rigged, and the first that actually made provision for it - holes already for threading! Something I hadn't come across before!
Dave
That would be nice if the holes are there. I’m yet to try rigging on any model so another neW experience .
 
Thread owner
That would be nice if the holes are there. I’m yet to try rigging on any model so another neW experience .
Carl,
just looked at the latest instructions - the holes & the rigging instructions are still there - all you need is the thread!
Dave
 
Carl,
just looked at the latest instructions - the holes & the rigging instructions are still there - all you need is the thread!
Dave
It’s been taking me so long building this Queen Mary ship that the stash has grown. I’ve even given my son the odd one to keep him going.
One thing I have found is how bad my brush work is. No matter how hard I try it seems impossible to get the white paint on cleanly. Have to get to about third coat before it resembles good covering and even then it’s not that pretty.
sorry, I’m going off topic now...
 
Thread owner
Carl,
white is a difficult finish - I'm afraid I wouldn't attempt to brush paint such a large area. I use Stynylrez white primer through my airbrush & even then sometimes needs 2 coats to really cover evenly. You probably have to do a whole load more masking, but I find it less aggravating!
Dave
 
Thread owner
Not a lot done today - I always seem to get sidetracked at the weekend..............
DSCF1028.JPG
Lower wings added - I used Revell Contacta for the initial grab, then after an hour or so ran TET into the joint. I'll let this really set overnight.
You can use CA to give strength, but I prefer to use something which gives me wriggle room, in the unlikely event I make a mistake (!!!!!!) :rolling:
Tomorrow, I'll run a drill through the rigging holes & clean out the strut attachment points - it's far easier to do it before adding the top wing.............
Dave
 
Thread owner
Adding the wings........................DSCF1032.JPG
Upper wing taped down & outer 'v' struts added using Revell Contacta ( slow drying ) . The centre section struts are added, also using Contacta - roughly getting them at the right angle. I waited for about 20 minutes, to let the glue to begin to harden.

DSCF1033.JPG
Putting drops of Contacta on all the strut attachment points - I offered up ( down ) the lower wing & fuselage, locating the centre section struts first, then springing the 'v' struts into their holes, using tweezers.
I then tiptoed away for an hour or two.....................

DSCF1034.JPG
I returned, released the D.III & confirmed that all struts were in their holes. I then added just a drop of TET to each location to give a better bond. I'll leave this overnight, before I think about rigging.
I leave the undercarriage until last - it's easier to be able to put the D.III down flat, top, or bottom, when rigging etc., without having to worry about potential fragile bits.
Dave
 
Thread owner
It took quite a few attempts, and thanks to the gloss varnish over the basecoat, I was able to wipe off poor efforts, and start again. I find it difficult to know when to stop, there's always that temptation to do just a little bit more! Judging by the number of positive comments, I think I managed to stop myself in time. My main goal was to do the wood effect with the water based acrylics, - I'd seen loads of 'how to's ' , but they all used oils, and I prefer the short drying times of acrylics.
I'm currently blogging the Fokker Dr.I Triplane, and I'm going to use a similar technique for the streaky upper surface camo - it should be easier, there's only one colour over the basecoat.
Dave
 
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