discussion Display base material

[Dave Ward]

I'm looking for material to use as a base in some sea dioramas. Until now, I've used plastic card - OK for smaller models, but for larger models, too flexible ( the sea cracks too easily ). The material will be covered, so a strong core is all I need. Sizes will vary from around 100-150mm wide to 300-500mm long. I guess MDF or softwood plywood will be the material - probably around 9mm thick. I do need them to be cut to size, as I don't really have any woodworking facilities! - and delivered.
Anyone bought any material like this, and have a vendor to recommend? There are loads of places advertising, but I'd prefer a track record, personal satisfied experience................
Dave

 

[Neil Merryweather]

I'm looking for material to use as a base in some sea dioramas. Until now, I've used plastic card - OK for smaller models, but for larger models, too flexible ( the sea cracks too easily ). The material will be covered, so a strong core is all I need. Sizes will vary from around 100-150mm wide to 300-500mm long. I guess MDF or softwood plywood will be the material - probably around 9mm thick. I do need them to be cut to size, as I don't really have any woodworking facilities! - and delivered.
Anyone bought any material like this, and have a vendor to recommend? There are loads of places advertising, but I'd prefer a track record, personal satisfied experience................
Dave

Sorry I don't have a vendor to recommend, but I would be a bit wary of MDF if you are planning to use DAS- it does like to absorb moisture.
If you don't have any luck getting wood cut to size you could always use 12mm plasterboard-that you can cut with a Stanley knife. You are bound to find offcuts in a skip nearby - AND it would satisfy your Yorkshire thriftiness..

 

[Dave Ward]

Wouldn't plasterboard absorb moisture as much as MDF? I would use DAS, it's something I'm familiar & comfortable working with - maybe sealing the surface with diluted PVA would solve the moisture problem. I've been keeping an eye out for local skips, but nothing has met my needs yet! My neighbour scours skips for wood, to make bird nesting boxes, but he's a bit odd - I haven't exchanged words, other than 'good morning' for about 5 years! ( I thought it was me, but I'm assured he's like that with everyone! ) It's a bit too hot to be wandering around, as well!
Dave

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Dave,
I`d say MDF,although 9mm may be a bit weighty..... 6mm would be my choice,i use both sizes when making my doll`s houses.
I steer clear of ply as it splinters so very easily.
Neil is correct about the absorbency issue,however,if you use this stuff.......

you can paint it,pour glue on it and it`ll give a nice,smooth surface..... you can get it for under a fiver a tin from all the usual diy outlets or amazon/ebay :thumb2:,
As for the actual MDF suppliers,i bought a pack of 10 cut pieces of 3mm,200x200mm from amazon for a very reasonable price,(can`t remember exactly how much now!),middle of last year.Not the sizes you want i know,but worth a look to see what else they do on there.
Sorry i can`t be more detailed,but HTH.
Andy

 

[Guest]

Dave, both Neil and Andy are correct. With the MDF being made of crushed fibers any damp will cause it to swell. Even when I used professional edge sealer prior to applying paint it would life the fibers, needing cutting back until a decent thickness was achieved. Sealing the plaster board with the pva would work well .
There must be sellers on Evil bay who will cut to size, any local joinery shops in your area ?

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Wouldn't plasterboard absorb moisture as much as MDF?
Dave

yes but I'm sure it wouldn't swell up like MDF- it's designed to accept wet plaster, after all

 

[Tim Marlow]

What about using moisture resistant MDF? No absorbance issues at all.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Perhaps cut to size by someone like this?
https://www.cutmyplastic.co.uk/wood-sheets/mdf/moisture-resistant/6mm/

 

[Guest]

Think this says it all .

MDF should never be used outdoors or in an application where it’s regularly exposed to water, there are two approaches to “waterproofing” MDF so it can withstand moisture in high humidity areas: use ure Resistant (MR) MDF or make it water-resistant yourself. It should be noted that whichever method you use, MDF is moisture-resistant, not water-resistant, nor waterproof, and is still prone to swelling and warping if in direct contact with the elements.

The first and easiest approach is to purchase MR MDF, which is designed to work well in interior applications where moisture is a concern. Compared to the standard MDF, moisture-resistant MDF is still easy to sand and mill, takes well to most adhesives, veneers and paints, but is made with a moisture-repellent resin. It’s ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, and boiler and laundry rooms, and while a bit more expensive than standard MDF, the moisture-resistant feature makes it well worth the investment.

You can also create waterproof MDF by adding a high quality wood sealant, varnish or stain or moisture-resistant paint so that your project can withstand threats of moisture and humidity. Do not use waterborne polyurethane, as it may not bind readily to the MDF’s surface.


Personally think I would just paint on some varnish Dave on some standard MDF , NOT THE WATER BASED STUFF.

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Personally think I would just paint on some varnish Dave on some standard MDF , NOT THE WATER BASED STUFF.

Couldn`t agree more!
I have seen Doll`s houses that i made 20 years ago using plain old MDF and that sealer....... absolutely no problem at all,still look as fresh as when they were made :thumb2: ,
If you intend to leave your dios outside in pouring rain,then go get the super duper stuff....... if,as i suspect,you simply want to create a nice dio that will sit on a nice comfy shelf,or in a display cabinet.......then don`t overthink it all,
Andy

 

[Jim R]

Hi Dave
THESE people do cutting of all sorts of boards. I would think 9mm marine ply would work but they do moisture resistant MDF as well.
Jim

 

[Dave Ward]

I reckon moisture resistant MDF will be OK, these places seem to have a flat rate of p&p, so I'll have a look in the stash to see how many bases I'll need, and lay a bit of stock in..................
Thanks all for your replies & suggestions - 'wood' isn't something I've ever really had anything to do with!
Dave

 

[spanner570]

Dave, for my sea scapes I use 20 something mm (around 3/4") Polystyrene sheet offcuts or packings from washing machines etc. The surface I seal with PVA. Sometimes this is strong enough on its own. If not, I stick a piece of 4/5mm ply to the underside using silicone 'Dabs'
Light as a feather too!

 

[wotan]

Dave

If you have an artist supply store near, have a look for painting supports. The come in Masonite (hardboard) and plywood and you can find a whole range of sizes.

John

 

[Dave Ward]

Dave

If you have an artist supply store near, have a look for painting supports. The come in Masonite (hardboard) and plywood and you can find a whole range of sizes.

John

John,
the problem with them ( and photo frames ) is the breadth to height ratio! For a ship base this will probably be around 4 or 3 : 1. All the artists stuff work around a ratio of 4;3 ( think tv screen! ). It's OK for a ground diorama base, but for a seascape leaves large areas of blank sea to make & paint!
Dave

 

[wasdale32]

Dave, have you considered laminate flooring panels - they are "high density fibreboard" and are much more moisture resistant. They can be cut with a hand saw - most are around 15cm by around 90 or 100 cm

 

[Guest]

B & Q or any other type of supplier.

Conti board. Has a melamine finish no problems used it many times. Also B & Q have shelving in different sizes again all plastic surfaced.

All perfect no movement no absorbing of water. No treatment needed.

But you need a saw B & Q to cut to size. If you live in Jersey will cut it for you :tongue-out:

Laurie

 

[rtfoe]

Hi Dave, I would use thin ply with a formica finish on one side. The formica will be waterproof. PVA will dissolve and lift if in contact with moisture for a significant amount of time as its waterbased. Always use petroleum or resin based surface primers if you're working with waterbased paste or putty.
Wouldn't you have a simple hand saw at home?

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Gern]

I use 6mm MDF cut for me by my local hardware store for all of my dios (As my dios are usually squarish, I buy an 8ftx4ft board which he cuts into 4 pieces 2ftx2ft; 4 pieces 2ftx1ft 6inch and 4 pieces 1ft square for less than £20. You would end up with more pieces.

However, I always cover the MDF with blue foam board as it gives me a bit of depth to work contours - and I fix the foam with PVA adhesive so that acts as a moisture barrier between the MDF and whatever paints etc. I use.

 

[Dave Ward]

I'm sad to say, the only saw I possess is a 150mm razor saw! A problem with melamine faced board is actually getting the DAS to stick to it - with the plastic card I could score rough lines for a key, melamine/formica is much tougher. I don't need depth - I'm not going to do a ship vs Tsunami! Max wave height would be 20mm or so, any more and you would run into problems with painting a hurricane sea! In 1/350, 20mm gives a 7m wave ( 20+ ft ), which is big enough.
Dave