discussion Any recommendations for a decent filler .

[Guest]

At the moment I use the Vallejo one, it's ok but messy and tends to crumble at times when sanding and pulls out .
Mainly use a filler for figures, around the arm to the body and that sort of use .
Any ideas please as to what you use .

 

[AlanG]

Mr. Hobby Dissolved Putty is my go to. I used to use the Vallejo stuff but like you, found it brittle.

 

[Gary MacKenzie]

Not a filler, but i tend to use either superglue and talc , or prefer to use sprue dissolved in tamiya extra thin as a 'plastic filler'.

I also have some AK modelling grey putty, but I have that to use on bigger items, ( landing craft and vosper mtb ) not parts of figures.

 

[Jim R]

Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic.
Water clean up. Sands to a feather edge. Doesn't shrink. Dries white.
Jim

 

[Dave Ward]

I use Perfect Plastic Putty, like Jim, but for larger fills, I use Revell Plasto - tried others, but these are the two I come back to
Dave

 

[BattleshipBob]

Sorry for jumping in mr race

What about for joins in decks where you have to rescribe the planking?

 

[boatman]

well guys i use plastic wood filler in a long thin tube very easy to insert in the crack an sands down nicely might be just up your street bob as its a light brown an just right for a woden deck look
chris

 

[Guest]

Mr. Hobby Dissolved Putty is my go to. I used to use the Vallejo stuff but like you, found it brittle.

Thanks Alan, glad to read I was not alone on the filler being brittle.

Not a filler, but i tend to use either superglue and talc , or prefer to use sprue dissolved in tamiya extra thin as a 'plastic filler'.

I also have some AK modelling grey putty, but I have that to use on bigger items, ( landing craft and vosper mtb ) not parts of figures.

Thanks Gary, I tried the Tamiya extra thin method once before, my problem there was the putty weakened the original join causing the part to fall off. No doubt my fault in the application.

Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic.
Water clean up. Sands to a feather edge. Doesn't shrink. Dries white.
Jim

Jim , this sounds the thing I'm after, thanks.

I use Perfect Plastic Putty, like Jim, but for larger fills, I use Revell Plasto - tried others, but these are the two I come back to
Dave

Cheers Dave. That's made my mind up , Deluxe it is then.

Sorry for jumping in mr race

What about for joins in decks where you have to rescribe the planking?

Not at all Bob, the more tips we have the better.

well guys i use plastic wood filler in a long thin tube very easy to insert in the crack an sands down nicely might be just up your street bob as its a light brown an just right for a woden deck look
chris

There you are Bob, Chris has the answer.

Thanks all, the idea of a water based one seems the best one for me, but nice to know what others use as well .

 

[Dave Ward]

Thanks Alan, glad to read I was not alone on the filler being brittle.


Thanks Gary, I tried the Tamiya extra thin method once before, my problem there was the putty weakened the original join causing the part to fall off. No doubt my fault in the application.


Jim , this sounds the thing I'm after, thanks.


Cheers Dave. That's made my mind up , Deluxe it is then.





Not at all Bob, the more tips we have the better.

There you are Bob, Chris has the answer.

Thanks all, the idea of a water based one seems the best one for me, but nice to know what others use as well .

John,
You can apply PPP by paintbrush. You can thin the PPP to a thin slurry, with water & apply with a paintbrush - ideal for the joints in a wing root. If you apply the putty & allow to dry, you can remove a lot of the surplus, using a stiffer paintbrush & water. Wet the dried putty, and use the stiff brush to scrub the surplus away, it takes a few minutes for it to work, but once it starts........................
You do have to be careful not to take too much off, and allow it to dry before final sanding ( also don't thin it too much! ). PPP is never going to be as hard as other fillers, but it's easy and quick to use. Remember to clean the cap & firmly seal the tube - it can dry out very quickly.
Dave

 

[Guest]

John,
You can apply PPP by paintbrush. You can thin the PPP to a thin slurry, with water & apply with a paintbrush - ideal for the joints in a wing root. If you apply the putty & allow to dry, you can remove a lot of the surplus, using a stiffer paintbrush & water. Wet the dried putty, and use the stiff brush to scrub the surplus away, it takes a few minutes for it to work, but once it starts........................
You do have to be careful not to take too much off, and allow it to dry before final sanding ( also don't thin it too much! ). PPP is never going to be as hard as other fillers, but it's easy and quick to use. Remember to clean the cap & firmly seal the tube - it can dry out very quickly.
Dave

Thanks Dave. I've just ordered a 40 gram tube so will note.:thumb2:

 

[Ian M]

I like milli put. It's a two part putty sets hard and can even be drilled and threads tapped into it. Once in place it can be smoothly shaped with a wet cotton bud or shaper. Very good for small gaps and for sculpture work.
You can also roll it into thin sheet and make covers, blankets, tarpaulins and such.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Tamiya filler is excellent if you can find it anywhere. It’s lacquer based so adheres well and can be sanded to a glass finish or feather edge without crumbling. Holts cataloy knife stopping was also excellent, but that went the way of the dinosaurs ages ago :worried:

 

[David Lovell]

Thanks Dave. I've just ordered a 40 gram tube so will note.:thumb2:

John could you please write a full report on your findings ,there's been a few mentioned here that I havent tried yet strangely I keep going back to a old and punctured tube of humbrol filler broken tube because you had to give it a good squishing in the tube to mix it. I've a feeling most of these products don't quite live up to the wording on the packaging (not quite what it says on the tin)so please if you could let us all know your findings.
Not here but worth discussing, I've got a massive collection of decal setters and softeners none of wich seem to promise whats on the tin . Stay safe all Dave.

 

[BarryW]

I find that there is no one best filler. It is best to have several options to hand depending on the job.

I use the following:

For seam lines (specially stubborn ones) and tiny cracks, and to help level uneven surfaces. Mr Dissolved Putty. Lacquer based it is very self levelling. I cannot do without this stuff.

For slightly wider crack and seams, Mr Surfacer 500, also lacquer based.

For wider cracks and gaps I use Vallejo Plastic Putty which is water based. I also use this to build up surfaces, Perhaps to deal with a step.

I leave all putties overnight to cure, specially important with the Vallejo which is best left in an airing cupboard if you possibly can. All water based materials are vulnerable to humidity and can take a while to fully cure-off.

All of the above three can have surplus ‘sanded’ with a cotton bud dipped in I.p.a. and therefore preserve detail. It takes some elbow grease and you need to soak the filler somewhat with it but it works well, incidentally, it is best to do this a couple of hours after application rather than the next day though it will still work, it just would need more solvent and elbow grease. Often more than one application of putty is needed, at least in odd places, incidentally no matter what one you use.

For some jobs I use a thick c.a. as it dries quickly for sanding. I don’t use this often but sometimes it can be useful.

Finally, I will often use the above In combination, for instance a wider gap filled initially with VPP is finished off with MDP.

Most of the time when I build up filler to correct a step between parts i use the VPP and after sanding and feathering the edge (it does feather if properly cured and is best applied in thin layers) it is best finished off with MDP to help fill any tiny ‘holes’ left after sanding and, when levelling an uneven surface, it is sanded as the cotton bud trick is inappropriate.

 

[PaulinKendal]

Great thread, John.

I could say "I use such-and-such" but, seeing as I've only re-started in the hobby a few months back, it would (incorrectly) give the impression I actually know what I'm talking about - that I've tried lots of different stuff and settled on what I consider 'the best'.

Truth is, I've bought and tried out Vallejo Plastic Putty and Milliput. Both seem fine, in their own ways.

I use (there you go, I couldn't resist!) VPP for small gaps and Milliput for larger ones. VPP seems to get a bad press for being fragile and crumbly, but I've not found that too problematic, used in very small volumes. Milliput is great for building up scenic bases, in conjunction with cork sheet and/or Scots pine bark, followed by some sort of 'mud' and texture media.

I'd use Milliput for smaller gaps, too, but it's a nuisance having to make up batches, and I waste 98% of what I've made up, as I find it difficult to accurately mix tiny, tiny quantities. VPP is handy, straight out of the bottle.

But I'll be getting some Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty after reading this thread, and as I've generally found Deluxe Materials' products to be really good.

 

[Guest]

I like milli put. It's a two part putty sets hard and can even be drilled and threads tapped into it. Once in place it can be smoothly shaped with a wet cotton bud or shaper. Very good for small gaps and for sculpture work.
You can also roll it into thin sheet and make covers, blankets, tarpaulins and such.

Thanks Ian, I've got some in stock but for really small filling as in around collars and arms etc I presumed that a acrylic type would be better and it can be thinned down .

John could you please write a full report on your findings ,there's been a few mentioned here that I havent tried yet strangely I keep going back to a old and punctured tube of humbrol filler broken tube because you had to give it a good squishing in the tube to mix it. I've a feeling most of these products don't quite live up to the wording on the packaging (not quite what it says on the tin)so please if you could let us all know your findings.
Not here but worth discussing, I've got a massive collection of decal setters and softeners none of wich seem to promise whats on the tin . Stay safe all Dave.

That's a good idea Dave, it of course would be what I think of it, like Bobs thread on Sprue cutters. Should be here in a couple of days along with a pinpoint syringe system. Stand by.:smiling3:

I find that there is no one best filler. It is best to have several options to hand depending on the job.

I use the following:

For seam lines (specially stubborn ones) and tiny cracks, and to help level uneven surfaces. Mr Dissolved Putty. Lacquer based it is very self levelling. I cannot do without this stuff.

For slightly wider crack and seams, Mr Surfacer 500, also lacquer based.

For wider cracks and gaps I use Vallejo Plastic Putty which is water based. I also use this to build up surfaces, Perhaps to deal with a step.

I leave all putties overnight to cure, specially important with the Vallejo which is best left in an airing cupboard if you possibly can. All water based materials are vulnerable to humidity and can take a while to fully cure-off.

All of the above three can have surplus ‘sanded’ with a cotton bud dipped in I.p.a. and therefore preserve detail. It takes some elbow grease and you need to soak the filler somewhat with it but it works well, incidentally, it is best to do this a couple of hours after application rather than the next day though it will still work, it just would need more solvent and elbow grease. Often more than one application of putty is needed, at least in odd places, incidentally no matter what one you use.

For some jobs I use a thick c.a. as it dries quickly for sanding. I don’t use this often but sometimes it can be useful.

Finally, I will often use the above In combination, for instance a wider gap filled initially with VPP is finished off with MDP.

Most of the time when I build up filler to correct a step between parts i use the VPP and after sanding and feathering the edge (it does feather if properly cured and is best applied in thin layers) it is best finished off with MDP to help fill any tiny ‘holes’ left after sanding and, when levelling an uneven surface, it is sanded as the cotton bud trick is inappropriate.

Thanks Barry, hadn't though of leaving the Vallejo in a warm place over night.

Great thread, John.

I could say "I use such-and-such" but, seeing as I've only re-started in the hobby a few months back, it would (incorrectly) give the impression I actually know what I'm talking about - that I've tried lots of different stuff and settled on what I consider 'the best'.

Truth is, I've bought and tried out Vallejo Plastic Putty and Milliput. Both seem fine, in their own ways.

I use (there you go, I couldn't resist!) VPP for small gaps and Milliput for larger ones. VPP seems to get a bad press for being fragile and crumbly, but I've not found that too problematic, used in very small volumes. Milliput is great for building up scenic bases, in conjunction with cork sheet and/or Scots pine bark, followed by some sort of 'mud' and texture media.

I'd use Milliput for smaller gaps, too, but it's a nuisance having to make up batches, and I waste 98% of what I've made up, as I find it difficult to accurately mix tiny, tiny quantities. VPP is handy, straight out of the bottle.

But I'll be getting some Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty after reading this thread, and as I've generally found Deluxe Materials' products to be really good.

Hi Paul, yes the waste when using Milliput for very small areas is one reason why I just didn't bother the get the packs out. I too have found Deluxe products to be good, I even bought the Pin Point set syringe set to get as thin as pine into the gaps on the figures as poss. I 'll write up my finding soon.

 

[Gavalaar1980]

I use the Revell filler for major gap filling; never had any problems at all with it. For a quick fix minor gap filler I use the humbrol cement/glue with the precision tube applicator; this is especially handy in situations where you have already painted and notice a gap (where it's not practical to use compound filler) or where you have no choice but to paint parts first then assemble only the final fit isn't perfect. The precision cement is perfect for filling in minor imperfections when in situ and can be painted over easily again once dry. But for major gap filling in the early construction phase it's Revell filler for me. G

 

[Guest]

I use the Revell filler for major gap filling; never had any problems at all with it. For a quick fix minor gap filler I use the humbrol cement/glue with the precision tube applicator; this is especially handy in situations where you have already painted and notice a gap (where it's not practical to use compound filler) or where you have no choice but to paint parts first then assemble only the final fit isn't perfect. The precision cement is perfect for filling in minor imperfections when in situ and can be painted over easily again once dry. But for major gap filling in the early construction phase it's Revell filler for me. G

Thanks Gavin , hit the nail on the head with you description .
I've bought some filler from Deluxe and have been using it with success, including putting it into the syringe system. Only really needed it for the last build where there are a few figures.

 

[Bugatti Fan]

Some figure modellers back in the day used to dissolve sprue in CTC (carbon tetrachloride) to a gel consistency and use it for joint filling and create textured surfaces like hair and lambswool saddle underblankets.

 

[stillp]

Nasty stuff carbon tet.
Pete