discussion Looking for deck blue paint

[jrkob]

Hi guys,

1) I'm building a 1/350 USS Birmingham from Very Fire and the manual indicates that I need some deck blue. For... well, the deck.
The manual indicates the following choices:

• C01 at Very Fire
• MA310 at Victoriam
• SC15 at MR.Hobby

I'm not familiar with either 3 paint manufacturers and would prefer either Tamiya, or even better... other suggestions from the pros here.

Tamiya doesn't seem to have this color in their catalog.
I've checked with the shops around where I live but couldn't find, so it looks like I'm going to have to order it online.
I'm still relatively new to modelling and would prefer not having to mix it myself.

What are your suggestions for this ?

2) I've got an unrelated question. The bottles of both these paints indicate 10ml. Is this actually correct ? The one on the left looks bigger... I notice that one says acrylic, the other enamel (not sure what the difference is, perhaps something for me to research).



- Jean.

 

[jrkob]

OMG why are my 2 "Tamiya" above linking to ads !! Is this because I have an account that is not upgraded ?

 

[Tim Marlow]

OMG why are my 2 "Tamiya" above linking to ads !! Is this because I have an account that is not upgraded ?

No, it’s the software. The “ads” it links to is John’s shop. The shop hosts this site.

Hi guys,

1) I'm building a 1/350 USS Birmingham from Very Fire and the manual indicates that I need some deck blue. For... well, the deck.
The manual indicates the following choices:

• C01 at Very Fire
• MA310 at Victoriam
• SC15 at MR.Hobby

I'm not familiar with either 3 paint manufacturers and would prefer either Tamiya, or even better... other suggestions from the pros here.

Tamiya doesn't seem to have this color in their catalog.
I've checked with the shops around where I live but couldn't find, so it looks like I'm going to have to order it online.
I'm still relatively new to modelling and would prefer not having to mix it myself.

What are your suggestions for this ?

2) I've got an unrelated question. The bottles of both these paints indicate 10ml. Is this actually correct ? The one on the left looks bigger... I notice that one says acrylic, the other enamel (not sure what the difference is, perhaps something for me to research).



- Jean.

Those two Tamiya bottles hold the same amount of paint. The Tamiya acrylic will only be half full.
As to paint choices, there are many. The answer depends upon what you use to put paint on, and what your preference (alcohol based acrylic, water based acrylic, lacquer, or enamel) is.

To start you off, the yellow you have pictured is alcohol based acrylic. It sprays great when diluted, but brush paints poorly.

The Titanium gold is enamel. It will brush well, but take a day or so to dry properly. However, it sprays quite well.

Water based acrylics, such as the Vallejo ranges, brush paint very well once you get used to them. Spraying them is more difficult in my experience, though others find they airbrush well.

I have no real experience of lacquers, only as primer, but I find they spray very well. They can’t be brushed that I know of.

 

[stillp]

Mr Hobby SC15 is a lacquer, not my favourite kind of paint due to the smell, but they can produce excellent results. Tamiya XF50 looks to be a close match.
Pete

 

[Tim Marlow]

Never found that much difference between Mr Color lacquer and Tamiya acrylic paint myself Pete. I use Mr Color levelling thinners for spraying both…..

 

[jrkob]

No, it’s the software. The “ads” it links to is John’s shop. The shop hosts this site.

Erm ok sorry about that, I wasn't aware of this and was wondering who is this mysterious "John" everybody is talking about on this forum !
Thanks for the education re the paints.

And I see that John sells some deck blue paint, here:
https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/30ml-us-navy-flight-deck-blue-21-mission-models-mmp132-p11355/

Perhaps a good candidate for me to consider I presume ? I will airbrush it.

I considered XF50 when at the shop the other day but found it to be pretty far from what I'm looking for. The one above looks perfect I think. I will check later if they can deliver to Hong-Kong where I live, otherwise will use a forwarder I guess.

 

[jrkob]

I have a hunch that the fact that the left yellow bottle of acrylic is only half full is to leave room for some thinner may be ?

 

[Ian M]

I think you will be able to find a more local shop for the Mission models paint...

 

[jrkob]

I think you will be able to find a more local shop for the Mission models paint...

You might be right, their website lists a vendor in HK, I've sent them an email after seeing your email, let's see what they say.

 

[Dave Ward]

AK Interactive 5001 Deck Blue 20B - I got mine as part of this set:


Dave

 

[jrkob]

Guys, regarding the thinning of these paints.
Just so I understand, and apologies for the newbie questions... the idea is that the thinning agent (in my case Tamyia X-20A) helps the paint spread in smaller quantity, but then it will evaporate, leaving on the surface of the model only the paint itself.
I'm sure there is more to it than that but broadly speaking, is that the spirit ? The thinning agent will evaporate leaving only the paint ?

 

[Dave Ward]

Guys, regarding the thinning of these paints.
Just so I understand, and apologies for the newbie questions... the idea is that the thinning agent (in my case Tamyia X-20A) helps the paint spread in smaller quantity, but then it will evaporate, leaving on the surface of the model only the paint itself.
I'm sure there is more to it than that but broadly speaking, is that the spirit ? The thinning agent will evaporate leaving only the paint ?

Jean,
like any paint, the pigment is held in a fluid base, and as the fluid evaporates ( dries ), the pigment is left as a thin layer. Thinning the paint ie adding fluid, is needed when the viscosity ( thickness ) is too high. This may be for brush painting, but is especially true for airbrushing, where the paint needs to be able to pass through the nozzle ( consistency of semi-skimmed milk! ). Obviously since paint varies in consistency, it's difficult to give exact ratios of thinner/paint, you have to experiment until you find the right ratio.
If you are using an airbrush, never thin in the cup - use an external pot - I use plastic shot glasses - it's easier to gauge the consistency, and if something does go wrong, you can ditch the glass. If you mix in the cup & that happens, you have a nasty job in cleaning your airbrush. Some paint/thinners/varnishes are incompatible with each other & can clump & coagulate........
I have an old plastic model that I use as a guinea-pig for paint mixes & experiments before going on to your nice new model
Every modeller develops his/her own methods, which suits them best - so don't think you have to follow others slavishly
Dave

 

[jrkob]

Thanks Dave, very clear, appreciate the explanation.

 

[Ian M]

And just to add to Daves very good explanation:
There is a difference between thinning a paint and diluting it. Pedantic? not entirely. There are some acrylic paint types that can be made less viscous by adding water. Some Need a special thinner just for that brand.
Best examples has to be Vallejo Model Color (or model air). Yes you can thin with water, preferably distilled water, As I also 'made the mistake of doing when I started to use them.
However by adding water, you are in fact not thinning the paint but diluting it.... A thinner includes 'magic ingredients' that are also found in the paint. basically a thin paint without pigment. This will thin the paint but still maintain the paints integrity. Using water you just dilute the paint. Yes it is thinner and sprays better but in truth, you have 'broken' the paint- The chemical bond is weakened and the resulting paint job can/will be weak.
I found that Vallejo thinned with water to be very soft, almost chalky at times, even after a week!
When thinned with the correct thinner after a day it had cured 100%, was hard and had a much better finish.
Next up is Xtracrylix. Love this paint. But you have to use their own brand thinners. Again these can be thinned with water. Just a drop or two is normally enough to get them through the airbrush and still give a good hard finish. Any other brand of thinner turns the paint to gunk.

In all its a suck it and see world of alchemy that you will figure out along the way. lol

 

[Dave Ward]

And just to add to Daves very good explanation:
There is a difference between thinning a paint and diluting it. Pedantic? not entirely. There are some acrylic paint types that can be made less viscous by adding water. Some Need a special thinner just for that brand.
Best examples has to be Vallejo Model Color (or model air). Yes you can thin with water, preferably distilled water, As I also 'made the mistake of doing when I started to use them.
However by adding water, you are in fact not thinning the paint but diluting it.... A thinner includes 'magic ingredients' that are also found in the paint. basically a thin paint without pigment. This will thin the paint but still maintain the paints integrity. Using water you just dilute the paint. Yes it is thinner and sprays better but in truth, you have 'broken' the paint- The chemical bond is weakened and the resulting paint job can/will be weak.
I found that Vallejo thinned with water to be very soft, almost chalky at times, even after a week!
When thinned with the correct thinner after a day it had cured 100%, was hard and had a much better finish.
Next up is Xtracrylix. Love this paint. But you have to use their own brand thinners. Again these can be thinned with water. Just a drop or two is normally enough to get them through the airbrush and still give a good hard finish. Any other brand of thinner turns the paint to gunk.

In all its a suck it and see world of alchemy that you will figure out along the way. lol

Ian,
I was trying not to differentiate between water based acrylics & oil based paints! I've just about forgotten about enamels & the stink of white spirit! I do at times add a lttle gloss, or matt varnish if I feel a paint is over diluted. I use tap water for my acrylics - the tap water is very soft ( my electric kettle is 20 years old hasn't furred up! ), and I reckon that makes a difference!
Dave