discussion What glue?

[Modler bob]

thanks guys.
I've ordered two and will try them out....

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000PHCNLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253089988027?epid=1808135396&hash=item3aed56bdbb:g:8MgAAOSw9EZZjYS1

 

[Modler bob]

no text.

 

[Tim Marlow]

erm...I'm still abit confused with this forum.
I posted yesterday thanking you guys for all your info, but it doesn't show on my PC (is that the problem, my PC?)
I've never noticed this in any other forum I frequent :surprised:
Anyway I have purchased two different puttys and will try them out.....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253089988027?epid=1808135396&hash=item3aed56bdbb:g:8MgAAOSw9EZZjYS1
And...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000PHCNLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Haven'yt got them yet though

Bit strange. Your “ thanks” post shows as the one above this. Posted yesterday at 10.34 pm. Have you tried refreshing your browser?

 

[Modler bob]

Bit strange. Your “ thanks” post shows as the one above this. Posted yesterday at 10.34 pm. Have you tried refreshing your browser?

Cheers, Tim.
I've deleted one now. The trouble was that I didn't have a "next page" showing at the top or bottom of the page, seems OK now though.
Stange, as this happened once before

 

[Modler bob]

oK, so I've started on the Seafire FR 47, just painted several bits b/4 building
I'm finding a big difference with the instructions compared to years ago.
Obviosly instructions nowadays are designed for all countries, and it's fairly straightforward, apart from having to cut/drill out openings for the transparent pieces/windows?
I dfon't ever remember having to do anything like this before. Are Airfix getting lazy? :astonished:

 

[Guest]

It’s probably because they (intend to?) release different versions of the plane that don’t need all of those holes.

 

[Guest]

Over 30 years ago, my best friend at the time used Contact with that needle applicator for his models, and despite not smoking, always kept a cigarette lighter handy to unblock it :smiling3:

As for what I use to glue with, maybe a little under 30 years ago, someone tipped me to buy 250 ml tins of a thinner/degreaser commonly sold in hardware stores here in the Netherlands, as that works very well to glue model kit parts. Pour it into an empty bottle with brush, that liquid model cements normally come in, and you can just keep refilling the bottle any time you need it. The tins cost (back then and now) about as much as a 40 ml bottle of model cement.

I used that for decades and am very happy with it. Maybe two years ago, I decided to buy a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin, and found it works better for some things and not as well for others, so now I have two bottles of glue. Mainly, the TET doesn’t evaporate as fast, so it’s better for glueing small parts together where I need to put a dot of glue on one side and then press the other part to it. When the TET ran out, I found out what it’s actually made of, and decided to buy 100 ml bottles of the two ingredients, mixing them 50/50 when needed. Again, because I’m cheap in this regard: those two bottles including postage set me back about as much as a bottle of TET with postage but hold about five times as much :smiling3:

This type of stuff .



Cost £6.67 or 7.98 €. Often thought would this be any good or is it very strong ? It's used by plumbers to join PCV pipes .

 

[Tim Marlow]

If it’s like the polypipe glue I’ve used John, it’s quite thick and extremely hot so will melt plastic very quickly. Even on polypipe assembly you only get one shot at the joints……best dry fit the plumbing and mark the orientation with a pencil line, put on the glue, and push together….job done. Great for waste pipe systems, not so good for models…..

 

[Guest]

This type of stuff .

No, this:

View attachment 460256

According to the MSDS, it’s basically 25–50% naphtha, 10–25% ethyl acetate, 10–25% more naphtha (but treated differently from the other), 10–25% methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), <1% n-hexane and <1% cyclohexane.

Cost £6.67 or 7.98 €. Often thought would this be any good or is it very strong ? It's used by plumbers to join PCV pipes .

The kind of glue used for plumbing pipes is normally thick and gloopy, AFAIK, and applied with a stick or a spatula — not the kind you’d want to use on a model kit I think But if you happen to come across an opened jar/tin/etc. you could always take a peek at what it’s like, I suppose.

 

[Guest]

If it’s like the polypipe glue I’ve used John, it’s quite thick and extremely hot so will melt plastic very quickly. Even on polypipe assembly you only get one shot at the joints……best dry fit the plumbing and mark the orientation with a pencil line, put on the glue, and push together….job done. Great for waste pipe systems, not so good for models…..

Yes Tim, was a thought as my plumber used to use it. No good for us then, oh well will continue to use Tamiya

 

[Guest]

No, this:



According to the MSDS, it’s basically 25–50% naphtha, 10–25% ethyl acetate, 10–25% more naphtha (but treated differently from the other), 10–25% methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), <1% n-hexane and <1% cyclohexane.


The kind of glue used for plumbing pipes is normally thick and gloopy, AFAIK, and applied with a stick or a spatula — not the kind you’d want to use on a model kit I think :smiling3: But if you happen to come across an opened jar/tin/etc. you could always take a peek at what it’s like, I suppose.

As I said to Tim my Plumber used that sort, I never really looked as he was gluing pipes. Still interested in finding something like that here.

 

[Bugatti Fan]

I use Revell Contacta a lot. Discarded the plastic cap and keep a small straight length of 0.5mm brass wire constantly in the tube end to keep it clear. Sometimes it clogs a bit whilst in use but I just wipe the tube towards the end with thumb and finger and use the wire to clear it when it happens.
Beading wire or a thin pin might be alternatives to what I use.

 

[Modler bob]

Cheers for all the replies.

I'm using the contacta glue, and it's been ok so far, only had to burn the needle once.
I try to put the cover on straight away, I guess that helps.
Just the putty I have to get used to. :smiling3:

 

[BattleshipBob]

Very late to this discussion, got a good excuse!

I like Tamiya extra thin, but it's a bit smelly and gives me headaches

So after trying some other makes found this


Comes in different colours, is very thin and flows very well plus low smell!