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Tamiya 1/32 F-16 (the big box )

I don't know if Dremel offer it anymore. but I bought their Motor Speed Control unit years ago and have never regretted it. you can slow it down to where you can count the revolutions......just won't get much done at that rate. ;)
Just a potentiometer on the supply, haven't seen one by Dremel but Tandy or Maplin might do one.
 
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I always think dremels are overkill for this hobby, too fast to work delicately.
Completely agree.
I agree about a Dremel but if you want total control try Como. Speed adjustable right down .
I don't know if Dremel offer it anymore. but I bought their Motor Speed Control unit years ago and have never regretted it. you can slow it down to where you can count the revolutions......just won't get much done at that rate. ;)
I now have to agree, I bought a variable speed one more for model railway use but even at it's slowest I've now found that's not slow enough. We live and learn, hopefully
 
Just a potentiometer on the supply, haven't seen one by Dremel but Tandy or Maplin might do one.
I use an old model railway controller on my minicraft. Still only use it a couple of times a year…….it’s just too crude for plastic work.
 
Still only use it a couple of times a year……
Even though I thoroughly recommend the MFA Como drill because of it's ability to dial down the speed to very low I only use it, like Tim, a few times a years. Really an unnecessary luxury.
 
I bought a Parkside rechargeable one in Lidl, I think for £15.99, which will run slowly enough to not melt plastic.
Pete
 
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First real glitch with the build and it’s causing me some serious head scratching. The spare ten minutes I had when I built the radar is now causing me some grief. The nose cone clips into a part to form a hinge allowing it to swing clear of the radar. The problem is it doesn’t allow the nose to close flush, this will then be a problem when I start to paint for obvious reasons. Unless I can try an modify the hinge it will be back to plan A and the nose cone will be glued on.
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Assuming you are going to display this open Mick, then just pack the gap with damp tissue. It will dry hard and successfully mask the gap. Once you have finished painting just moisten it again and it will come off cleanly.
 
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Assuming you are going to display this open Mick, then just pack the gap with damp tissue. It will dry hard and successfully mask the gap. Once you have finished painting just moisten it again and it will come off cleanly.
Thanks for that Tim that’s definitely a new one on me. The original plan was shut but we’ll see. Thanks again though
 
Not the first kit that opening panels don't close right, (HobbyBoss F-14 is a pig for this ) though you would expect the big T to have got this right.
 
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A couple of minor updates, I’ve been doing some undercoating and while the parts dried I’ve added some final touches to the cockpit. After looking at some more reference pics I’ve added the remove before flight tags to the seat which just needs some orange paint adding and then added a piece of etch I’d left on the frame. It’s the yellow k shaped bit that is quite prominent in reference pics. Apparently it’s associated with the closing of the canopy, when pulled out it stops the pilots pushing the throttle forward with the canopy open. The canopy has to be closed and locked before it can be pushed back against the side wall allowing the throttle to be pushed forward.
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Thread owner
Last quick update before I go on holiday. I made a start on putting together the bombs, missiles and fuel tanks. There’s also a jamming pod with some bits missing as it’s easier to paint that way. I really dislike putting cylinders together, there never seems to be enough guide pins to help with lining the two halves up. I’ve done the best I can with them but most still need cleaning up.
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Lots of boom-booms there, Mick!!! They do look good as does the whole thang......Enjoy your holiday and see you when you get back Sir.

Prost
Allen
 
I hope you can sort the nose cone issue. The details in the cockpit are superb. Enjoy your holidays.
 
That radome hinge is horribly oversized, cut it off and stick the radom in place, or..........scratch a new one.
The Eduard 1/48 one could serve as inspiration.
Here it is.
 
Canopy polishing, now that's a " black art " alright Mick .Certainly came out well .
Enjoy your holiday .
 
Great work Mick. I remember polishing my first canopy - it was a case of, nerves of steel followed by, 'oh look, they were right' when it worked.
I haven't built this model but have done a couple of 1:32 Tamiya's and found if something didn't fit, I'd made a mistake. Just a guess, is something fitted upside down? The radar array maybe?
 
The hinge pivot point should be a slot rather than a hole so the cone can be moved out (to it's current position in the open pic) to clear the fuselage & in to seal properly.
 
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