discussion Bobs battle with PE, latest score PE 1 - bob 1

[BattleshipBob]

After yesterday's continuous problems with the joys of PE and CA. I spent a while today experimenting, a few surprises and I think I am finally on the right track.

Used a old Tamiya StuG skirt and scrap PE and a PE King Tiger mudguard. Used the glue I used on KGV and applied with a looper.

Cleaned the PE with a fibreglass pen, and yes same issues. Both types of PE struggled to stick, when they did after 5 mins they came off just by a gentle touch. You could see the glue but it constantly failed to grab the PE.

Going through a box of odds and sods to my surprise found a Flex I file CA looper and a applicator, both new. Same needle as suggested by Scottie. I have no idea when I bought them!!

So used them both and they worked a treat BUT CA still did not attach the pe at all well!

Next used MIG CA

Finally worked very well, used both the looper and the needle applicator, when I had placed a few drops of CA along the seam I then dragged them together using both tools to form a thin line. Stuck well, hard to pull to get the PE off again.

So there seems to be a problem with the zap CA, I assume it's gone off, cannot see a use by date on the bottom? So back to KGV but with MIG CA and my new found applicators.

We will see lol

 

[Steve Jones]

Well done Bob. You certainly have the tools for the job

 

[Tim Marlow]

Good man, stick at it until it sticks Bob……we can all give you fifty different ways to do this, but just find the one that works for you and run with it :thumb2:

 

[BattleshipBob]

Good man, stick at it until it sticks Bob……we can all give you fifty different ways to do this, but just find the one that works for you and run with it :thumb2:

Cheers Tim, any idea how long CA lasts in a bottle? The Zap is about 80% full

 

[Tim Marlow]

Not really Bob……..until it doesn’t stick any more? :tongue-out3: It’s one of the reasons I only buy small bottles. You could use it for porous stuff I suppose……it should still work there.

 

[boatman]

WELL Bob did you do what i was sayin to you about roughin up both surfases with a bit of sand paper ?
chrisb

 

[BattleshipBob]

Not really Bob……..until it doesn’t stick any more? :tongue-out3: It’s one of the reasons I only buy small bottles. You could use it for porous stuff I suppose……it should still work there.

I can now see the logic in not buying bi bottles!

 

[BattleshipBob]

WELL Bob did you do what i was sayin to you about roughin up both surfases with a bit of sand paper ?
chrisb

Yep Chris, used a glassware pen

 

[boatman]

Yep Chris, used a glassware pen

whats that then?

 

[Ian M]

whats that then?

It is a bit like a propelling pencil but instead of a pencil lead it has a stick of glass fibres that scratches that surface up.

 

[BattleshipBob]

It is a bit like a propelling pencil but instead of a pencil lead it has a stick of glass fibres that scratches that surface up.

Just do not get it on your finger tip, OUCH lol

 

[BattleshipBob]

One thing I cannot get on with is a cocktail stick, always seems to put a very small drop of CA, despite dipping it in a pool of CA, or am I missing the point ( boom boom )!

 

[Tim Marlow]

Just do not get it on your finger tip, OUCH lol

Use the brush damp Bob. Dip it in a dish of dilute washing up liquid before use and the fibres won’t fly……as a bonus it cleans the grease and grime off the surface at the same time it removes the oxide layer :thumb2:

 

[BattleshipBob]

Use the brush damp Bob. Dip it in a dish of dilute washing up liquid before use and the fibres won’t fly……as a bonus it cleans the grease and grime off the surface at the same time it removes the oxide layer :thumb2:

Ta Tim, bounching chq on the way, honest guv!

 

[Steve Jones]

When CA starts to go off Bob it takes longer to stick. You find you are holding the pieces together for a minute rather than a few seconds. Its all down to how much air it gets exposed too in the bottle so try and remember to keep the lid on it.

 

[boatman]

WELL come on Bobm8ty when are we gonna see 2 to 1 on your score then ?

 

[BattleshipBob]

WELL come on Bobm8ty when are we gonna see 2 to 1 on your score then ?

It's time for half time oranges

 

[Guest]

Bob,
C/a applicator.... Get an old wooden clothes peg, take it apart and then shape one half to a wedge shape. In the end of this wedge drill a hole the size of a hat pin and then cut the top of the pin away, dip in c/a and insert into the hole. You should now have a sharp point ready to dip into c/a and locate as you wish. Now to apply along a line, use a #10A scalpel blade, dip into the c/a and then run the tip of the blade along the line you wish to join.
Fron the pics you have shown us it appears the c/a drying time is forever and actually dries out before it has had time to cure.... I use c/a purchased from Delux Materials, I usually buy a bottle of 'Rocket Rapid and a bottle of 'Rocket Hot' I then mix the two together which gives me a better product (my opinion). You know those milk bottle tops you throw away, keep them and use them to hold the c/a when taken from the bottle, and once used can be wiped clean with a bit of kitchen towel.
Hope this helps - I will put a pic up of my c/a tools for you later, just out of sick bed.
Cheers
Mike.

 

[Mr Bowcat]

Bob, I'll weigh in with my take on it.

I use this type of CA, it's fairly thick but being in a squeeze dispenser doesn't seem to go off. I don't keep it in the fridge and haven't had one stop sticking before it runs out.

I use an old glass Tamiya paint pot. Put some glue on the bottom and use a sharpened toothpick to apply. Once there are no more clean spots on the glass, the old glue just pops off (normally in one piece) with some help from a knife blade.

I've found this type of glue better than any other I have personally tried for PE.

 

[Dave Ward]

Fibre Glass pens work very well, but it seems I'm allergic to the dust & I come out in a red itchy rash within 20 mins of using - so it was binned. I use fine emery paper to roughen the surface, I cut wood stirrers/lolly sticks to shape, then CA small pieces of emery paper to the tip - tailor made for size & shape. The PE will be washed in IPA first & annealed if its' particularly big. I used to cut the PE on a ceramic tile, but now, courtesy of my sister-in-law, I use a pair of Surgical Gum Scissors - much easier. I just use Loctite CA, with an accelerator when needed ( rigging! )
Dave