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Scotties big Zundapp

Thread owner
Just caught up again, and the workmanship is first class as always. Cannot add more to the comments as it has all been said.
Cheers Mike, I have to try and keep up.
All been said by the guys already....
.... all I can add is that,if you showed one of those pics on it's own to someone, they'd think it was the real thing!! ;)
Excellent stuff mate. :smiling3:
Andy many thanks for the kind comment.
 
Following another very prompt delivery from John in the shop my paint arrived. The engine following a black pre shade received a coat of Tamyia Aluminium. This was followed with a very thinned down coat of Valleyo smoke. The details such as the HT leads and spark plug caps, battery and tray were then picked out. Then an oil wash with diluted W&N black was applied to pick out the details.







Final detailing will follow when this has dried thoroughly.

Next the sidecar gearbox was treated the same way as the engine with the exception that Tamyia dark yellow was used as well.





The frame halves have also received a coat of flat yellow ready for assembly.

cheers
Scottie
Scottie,

I don't know motorbike engines in the slightest..... But to my eye that looks like the real thing.

Very well done indeed!!!

ATB.

Andrew
 
Looks great to me Scottie. As the others have said, it looks real :thumb2:

Oil washes do work well if you have the patience don’t they. I find that leaching a little of the oil out on a scrap of cardboard first helps them dry flat as well……
 
Thread owner
Looks great to me Scottie. As the others have said, it looks real 



Oil washes do work well if you have the patience don’t they. I find that leaching a little of the oil out on a scrap of cardboard first helps them dry flat as well……
Hi Tim thanks mate. I do that with the oils as well . On this occasion not overly worried as It is all going to get a flat coat.
 
Thread owner
Rear wheel, mudguard and pillion seat fitted. My reference pics also show the plates fitted so fabricated them out of some evergreen with punched washers and bolts.

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The seat is sprung but sits very high so I will glue it at the right height later.

Next following the fine Jerry cans from Ben aka Yambam26 I have started fabricating the can holder. I have used 0.5 copper sheet cut into strips these were then soldered together. I used the solder paste for the first time on this and I am very impressed.

DSCF3611.JPG

There is still a lot of cleaning up to do and make the locking bar with its hinge.

cheers for looking

Scottie
 
Good work Scottie. Some neat soldering on that frame. On something like that I find that soldering one joint can sometimes un-solder the already done nearby joint!
 
Thread owner
Good work Scottie. Some neat soldering on that frame. On something like that I find that soldering one joint can sometimes un-solder the already done nearby joint!
Jim,
That is one really good thing about the paste I used it flow beautifully with the minimum of heat so the surrounding metal doesn't get to hot plus I use a gas torch with a very pointed flame so the heat goes where I want it.
 
Jim,
That is one really good thing about the paste I used it flow beautifully with the minimum of heat so the surrounding metal doesn't get to hot plus I use a gas torch with a very pointed flame so the heat goes where I want it.
Nice soldering Scottie. Just for info, you can also clip pads of wet tissue or soaked natural sponge on the early joints so they don’t heat up as fast as the one being made. Clip them on using aluminium hair grips so they don’t get soldered to the workpiece in error. Watch out for solder paste/cream, I found it goes solid quite quickly and becomes unusable.
 
Thread owner
Nice soldering Scottie. Just for info, you can also clip pads of wet tissue or soaked natural sponge on the early joints so they don’t heat up as fast as the one being made. Clip them on using aluminium hair grips so they don’t get soldered to the workpiece in error. Watch out for solder paste/cream, I found it goes solid quite quickly and becomes unusable.
Tim, yes that is a good trick to use I have used it even while brazing.
 
Thread owner
Well I must admit I am quite chuffed with the jerry can carrier. It is all soldered up and holes drilled for the padlock which I have also scratched. The clamping bar at the top is hinged so I can place the can in later when Its all painted.

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Next all assembled on the modified carrier.

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cheers
Scottie
 
Well I must admit I am quite chuffed with the jerry can carrier. It is all soldered up and holes drilled for the padlock which I have also scratched. The clamping bar at the top is hinged so I can place the can in later when Its all painted.



Next all assembled on the modified carrier.





cheers
Scottie
Pure Witchcraft
 
I'm taking up knitting scarves and the hell with plastic.........Too damn good Buddy, but I only hope you didn't put a combination lock on the jerry can holder........knit one, perl two...knit one, perl two...Knit one, perl two.......................
 
Excellent Scottie. That solder paste. I'd really appreciate any tips on how it's used.
 
Well I must admit I am quite chuffed with the jerry can carrier. It is all soldered up and holes drilled for the padlock which I have also scratched. The clamping bar at the top is hinged so I can place the can in later when Its all painted.



Next all assembled on the modified carrier.





cheers
Scottie
Scottie, don't forget to fill the can with 100 octane before locking it in the rack....you wouldn't want this baby to run out of gas before you get it done! :tongue-out3: :tears-of-joy: :thumb2: ;)
 
Scottie, don't forget to fill the can with 100 octane before locking it in the rack....you wouldn't want this baby to run out of gas before you get it done! :tongue-out3: :tears-of-joy: :thumb2: ;)
100 octane is Avgas mate - that beast would fly if that was used!
Steve
 
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