Now that's a radar. Flying bedstead I believe it was nicknamed!! Or Radar 965 to give its correct title!!
What is PE?
- Thread starter Waspie
- Start date
AN YES Doug loved goin to bovinton tank muse severall times as we used to holl down there in our caravan not far off polle at a place called fording bridge an camp site was called sandy balls always got a laugh when our freinds asked where we camped lol
chrisb
chrisb
G
For your radar, that looks like a very good idea, but not for the Challenger 2 etch that Doug has. The gratings in that set, for example, go onto the engine deck, and adding an extra plastic border to them is going to make them a bit too thick
YEP YOU are correct Doug but that sqaure plastic rod made gluein that big P/E radar VERY easy but it still took me a week to build it as i dint hurry as it had to be built sqaure an true for the silver collars to fit the radar shaft so it dint wobble when turning an it was a very enjoyable build as i must admit when i first see how big it was i near needed new trousers lol but a little thought goes a long way to the completion of it an if you do this you also will find it easy but dont hurry think before you act
chrisb
OK Jakko point taken so Doug will have to work out the best way for him on his tank but its only 1 mm sqaure would have thought there would be at least 1mm worth of room but as i said up to Doug
chrisb
I have a way to go before I get to that point. I may even have a bash at something between my current Sea King and the CH2. Judging by my current level of work on the SK. Don't want to run before I can walk.
VERY Wise Doug get used to it before you start on a best model
chrisb
Also give me time to build up my paint and experience with the airbrush. First attempt I think I had the pressure too high!! (The clue was the model nearly flew away!!!) Finally found there was a lock on the pressure control knob!! Turned it down, changed the needle to a mid range 0.3 and then put a light primer colour over my work!!! I cunningly used a primer a similar colour to the plastic I was priming!!!!!
G
Doug
If you really want to know Its to drive you mad from attempting A to bend it B Glue it, C look for it when it hides. Normally found weeks later when you've given up and finished the kit. Also is known to attach its self to any part of your clothing or body.
A dark art, some devotees actually solder it as well, no doubt the fumes effect their reasoning. For some people like Chris there is little hope as hes now an expert.
If you really want to know Its to drive you mad from attempting A to bend it B Glue it, C look for it when it hides. Normally found weeks later when you've given up and finished the kit. Also is known to attach its self to any part of your clothing or body.
A dark art, some devotees actually solder it as well, no doubt the fumes effect their reasoning. For some people like Chris there is little hope as hes now an expert.
Ugh!!!! solder - another skill I haven't mastered!!! Someone I think, mentioned superglue to secure the PE. I could manage superglue I reckon!!
A dark art, some devotees actually solder it as well, no doubt the fumes effect their reasoning. For some people like Chris there is little hope as hes now an expert.
(J/R QOUTE )
COR John many thanks but exspert i ai'nt
chrisb
(J/R QOUTE )
COR John many thanks but exspert i ai'nt
chrisb
YES Doug it was me as i have solered small bits of P/E but on that big radar i did super glue it so you can get away with doin it but as i said if you super glue the very thin edges of the P/E WONT glue unless you do like i did but if the P/E IS JUST GLUED up to the plastic under your engine cover then should be ok on that
chrisb
Be aware some PE is stainless. This is a lot tougher than brass to work IMHO.
G
Also: some that looks like it’s stainless steel, is nickel-plated brass, but you’ll only really notice the different if you cut or sand it.
Soldering !
Ordinary electicians stuff will not work well , but this does -
... Apply with a cocktail stick or similar , and heat . I find a disposable lighter is good enough - no need to actually touch the job itself . finnish with a wash in water to remove any flux.
my micro gas torch is too fierce , it will melt PE :rolling: ask me how I know . . .
I can even do something delicate like this - part of an old groupbuild thing.
1914 Morane Saulnier 'L' ( 1/72nd scale )
Ordinary electicians stuff will not work well , but this does -
... Apply with a cocktail stick or similar , and heat . I find a disposable lighter is good enough - no need to actually touch the job itself . finnish with a wash in water to remove any flux.
my micro gas torch is too fierce , it will melt PE :rolling: ask me how I know . . .
I can even do something delicate like this - part of an old groupbuild thing.
1914 Morane Saulnier 'L' ( 1/72nd scale )
Hi T.
Electricians solder will work if you use the right flux. The resin core stuff it comes with will just burn and coat the soldering iron unless a better flux is used as well. It needs a liquid flux like 2M phosphoric acid. It can be very useful if you need to set up a temperature hierarchy in your solder work. It melts at around 245 degC. It’s biggest issue is that its use can put a lot of heat into the parts and can cause them to distort when it cools.
Subsequent additions of parts using lower temperature solders like 188 degC and 143 degC types will be less likely to dislodge the earlier parts if 245 degC solder is used for the carcass parts. In particular, 143 degC solder using 2M phosphoric acid flux will flow like melted butter, so is ideal for long seams and small parts.
Solder paste was the “hot glue” of choice for those that used resistance soldering stations back in the day. Not sure if those devices are made these days though…..on full power they could burns holes in brass sheet.
G
Soldering another black art .
Being asthmatic it's not something I consider.
Being asthmatic it's not something I consider.
Plumbers power flow flux works well John, and is fairly odourless. Just needs to be washed off in a meths and water bath afterwards. You can also get soldering stations with fume extraction to protect you, should you want to try it…..
Something like this….
https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk...MIgse9kZXz_gIVZIBQBh2ZiQftEAQYAiABEgK_bvD_BwE
Something like this….
https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk...MIgse9kZXz_gIVZIBQBh2ZiQftEAQYAiABEgK_bvD_BwE
Carrs make a great range of solders with different melt temps. A mix of high and low, and adjustable soldering Iron and off you go.
Spray booths make good soldering stations too. Maybe not with a naked flame though...:tongue-out3:
Spray booths make good soldering stations too. Maybe not with a naked flame though...:tongue-out3:
Agree with Carrs, they are very good solder suppliers, but I’ve never really got on with their fluxes, preferring phosphoric acid and plumbers power flow. Personally I’ve never needed a temperature controlled iron either Ian, but that may well be because I learned to solder before I could afford one…... I’ve soldered everything from locomotive chassis frames using electrical 245 degC solder to adding white metal spears to 15mm Zulu figures using white metal 85 degC solder with just a 15watt Antex iron and the appropriate bit.
Best technique is clean the parts, flux and pre tin the workpiece, reflux the joint (critical step), then tin the iron and make the joint as quickly as practicable with the minimum of solder. You just want to have enough solder on the tip to re melt the tinning and make the joint. With 145 solder and decent flux, using the iron then becomes almost like waving a magic wand. If the joint is taking too long to make then something is wrong. Stop, repeat the advice above, and try again.
The biggest issue with soldering is adding too much heat into the work and oxidising the areas to be soldered. Solder will not take to oxidised metal. That’s where liquid flux comes into its own. When you use the iron you can hear the liquid flux hissing away as it boils. If the hissing stops, then remove the iron before the metal oxidises, and reflux the joint.
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