discussion 1/48 Bren carrier

[NickT]

Hi all,
Decided to have a try at P.E. and managed to get a Tamiya 1/48 bren carrier complete with P.E. This will be my next build and will no doubt provide me with lots of challenges along the way. Any help and advice will be greatly appreciated especially concerning the P.E.
Here is the sprue shot and I have to say already a little worried - the P.E. is tiny !!
Thanks for looking,
Nick T.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Interesting challenge for you Nick. Just remember you don’t have to use all the PE. If it’s too small to handle easily, or doesn’t improve the appearance I would be tempted to leave it off.

 

[NickT]

Hi Tim,
That's a great tip and having just spent over an hour attempting to fit three pieces it may well be happening sooner rather than later.

To all,


The pictures show my achievements so far today - four stuck fingers and a few expletives later.
I only have cheap CA and was struggling with such small parts so finally used the end of a cocktail stick but as the picture shows one touch and it ran everywhere.
I hope there are better ways and that the secret is revealed ??
Thanks for looking and comments welcome.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Using CA can be “interesting”. CA needs moisture to activate and set, so if you put a drop on a dry shiny surface it will remain workable for a while. I tend to put a blob onto a bit of shiny card and work from that reservoir with a pin. Others use a bottle top and a needle. They break the needle eye in half so they can use the resulting “fork” as a carrier for the CA.
Remember with CA less is more! If you put too much CA on it will take longer to react and so to set.

 

[Steve-the-Duck]

I'm comparing this to the 28mm Warlord plastic for how convertable it would be to an actual Bren Carrier, rather than a Universal.
The PE is interesting. Can you put up a picture of that? Or rather the plan sheet for what's to go where...

 

[Guest]

Agree with Tim on the needle. Remember a lot of PE on the fret is only there to make it look better. Unless your a masochist and like attempting to drive your self mad I'd only use the ones that actually improve the model.
Many times the moulding on the plastic is worth leaving if its good.

 

[Steve-the-Duck]

Many times the moulding on the plastic is worth leaving if its good.

How many times have we read a build- review where they say 'the detail is fine, but I still decided to scrape it all off and replace it with PE'?

 

[Guest]

And then they end up with the same detail but flat rather than rounded as it should be …

Eduard is (was? It’s been ages since I bought one of their sets) very prone to this: they seem(ed?) to supply parts intended to replace perfectly good detail for the sake of having more etched bits and thus, probably, giving more apparent value for money. I have over half their double set for the Tamiya M26 “Dragon Wagon” (tractor + trailer) left because of that.

As for conversion potential, the basics are simple enough: cut off both rectangular sides, slope the rear of the engine deck, add the mesh over that and built the sloping left side panel and associated rear plate/hatch. The details are where it gets tricky

 

[outrunner]

Using CA can be “interesting”. CA needs moisture to activate and set, so if you put a drop on a dry shiny surface it will remain workable for a while. I tend to put a blob onto a bit of shiny card and work from that reservoir with a pin. Others use a bottle top and a needle. They break the needle eye in half so they can use the resulting “fork” as a carrier for the CA.
Remember with CA less is more! If you put too much CA on it will take longer to react and so to set.

So it's not just me then, I keep all the shiny kit box tops for that very reason.

Andy.

 

[Steve-the-Duck]

Jakko, you've seen my 28mm Bren Carrier out of a Universal...
Wonder how this compares for size
And price...

 

[Guest]

So it's not just me then, I keep all the shiny kit box tops for that very reason.

Andy.

Andy I tend to use an small aluminium container, normally end up with it stuck to my shirt, or even worse my skin having managed to lean on it. :nerd:

 

[NickT]

Hi All and many thanks for the comments :
Tim - thanks for the info on CA and I will definately be trying both the card/pin and bottle top /needle methods.
Chris - photo's as requested, apologies I call all these bren carriers when I now see its a model of a universal carrier. I will find it fun and informative to look up the differences.
John - I'm already mad as a hatter so no worries there, thanks for the advice on PE, some of the moulding does look fine to me.
Jacko - As above didn't realise bren and universal different so will look into and decide which one to do, Think as its first attempt may stick with universal as my skills are still developing.
Andy - great idea may well pinch if that's ok.
Chris - (again) any chance of a picture of your 28mm conversion ?

 

[NickT]

Hi All,

On a different subject is there anyone on the site that could help identify a vehicle - I have a photo taken at B4 airfield in Normandy that I would like to recreate in the future but can not figure out what the car is.

 

[NickT]

Hi All,
Forgot to attach photo so here it is - any help gratefully received.

 

[CarolsHusband]

I'm going to take a stab at a late 20's Citroen C4 or C6

The cut of the front fenders looks about right, as does the light bar and the spreader bar. Shame we cant see the grill shell.

 

[Tim Marlow]

I’d say that’s pretty much spot on Nick.

 

[Guest]

you've seen my 28mm Bren Carrier out of a Universal...
Wonder how this compares for size
And price...

Size-wise, it should be about 1/6 bigger, because AFAIK, “28 mm” vehicles are 1:56 scale. The difference is big enough that I think you would easily see it if you have both in your collection. No idea about price, because I haven’t got a clue what either of them costs

 

[Steve-the-Duck]

Size-wise, it should be about 1/6 bigger, because AFAIK, “28 mm” vehicles are 1:56 scale. The difference is big enough that I think you would easily see it if you have both in your collection. No idea about price, because I haven’t got a clue what either of them costs :smiling3:

I do have three Warlord plastic Universals to convert, but I do like to compare and contrast. Putting some 1/48 next to 28mm is like having 1/76th next to 1/72, which was fine for my old wargames armies, back in the day... Aaaand we've had this discussion before!

Nick - don't worry, the, eheh, 'universal' term is 'Bren Gun carrier'. Personally I blame Airfix. If I can work out how, I'll put a link to my thread in Completed Vehicles for the Bren Carrier so you can see the differences. Anyone know how to do that?
Basically, there's the 'left-handed' Bren, 'right-handed' Scout and 'backless' Cavalry carriers, so they made the Universal to cover all roles
And THEN they came up with an infinite number of role-specific sub-variants.
Nigel Watson's book is about the best source for this many and varied subject.
Or, just do this Universal and walk away happy!

 

[NickT]

Hi Dan,

Thank you so much - I've spent hours trying to match the vehicle and you get it in a few minutes. Closest I was able to see was a ford A.

Now just have to find a similar kit in a scale that has figures available.

Tim - agree looks almost identical.

Thanks again,
Nick T.

 

[CarolsHusband]

Hi Dan,

Thank you so much - I've spent hours trying to match the vehicle and you get it in a few minutes. Closest I was able to see was a ford A.

Now just have to find a similar kit in a scale that has figures available.

Tim - agree looks almost identical.

Thanks again,
Nick T.

You're welcome, I'm a bit of a bugger for old cars, glad to be of assistance.

Also, I initially assumed the front bumper was missing but it turns out on the late 20's C4 "Torpedo" didn't generally have one.
The Torpedo bit means it's a Tourer, BTW.