Alclad
- Thread starter Dave W
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G
Cellulose thinners is the only good way to clean up after Alclad; get it at Halfords - don't pay model shop prices! Oh - and make sure you wear a mask!
Dave , dont buy it from b&q ! Itll cost a fortune for a little tin, get it from the motor factors , Its loads cheaper. PLus < if you get a big tin , you can use it as liquid cement too. Its all i use as a thin cement , the tin i got (tetrosyl ,i think) was about £7 for 5 litres and ive had it years and its nowhere near running out yet! cheers tony
Dave , another thing to consider is the type of airbrush youve got. Some ( iwata and some badgers for example)have a teflon sealing washer on the needle ,which is fine for using with 'hot' thinners , some cheaper ones have rubber washers which can swell on contact with cellulose and cause problems. Just something to consider , cheers tony
Good point Tony.Both my airbrushes have got teflon seals luckily.Been meaning to try Alaclad for ages.But havent bothered because of the cost.What with the gloss black you need as well.But having seen the results you can get with it on this forum,i decided to get some today.I intend using it on a 1/48 Academy P47N ive got in my stash.
G
Don't, ever, use white spirit; you'll end up with expensive porridge in your spray cup.
Edgar
Edgar
They don't, I got this email a while back from my supplier\ said:
Please read the communication attached below from Iwata-Medea about the use of the trade-marked name Teflon. Teflon is one brand name of a PTFE material. The PTFE solvent-proof material used to make the needle packings in Iwata airbrushes is not the Teflon branded one, so we must refer to it as 'PTFE' or 'solvent-proof' or 'PTFE solvent-proof' in all printed and online literature. I'm sure many people will still verbally ask for it as 'Teflon' as it is made from the same material and it has become virtually synonymous with the term PTFE (in fact I think maybe the word Teflon is better known than the material name PTFE!). This is much like the brand name Hoover became in the UK, where we still say we're 'going to Hoover the lounge', for example - even though many people should be saying they're 'Dysoning their lounge' now!
Sorry john , dont want the lawyers knocking on the door!! Note to self : no more use of the 'T' word!
G
I've got a few different chrome paints I use at work for alloy wheel refurbishment. It's a far brighter finish than the Alclad, i wonder if it's worth a shot? Plus you can polish it after it's been applied. The finish you put over a black base coat is usually referred to as shadow chrome and was the original finish on the old M5 wheels, I've got a picture of some I did during the summer.
Here it is...
There's a special lacquer that goes over the top that won't 'kill' the chrome effect. Some of the lacquers can just make it go grey.
I'll give it a go on some styrene some time and see if it melts.
As for thinners, a good quality synthetic lacquer thinners with a low toluene content seems to be a good bet for leaving seals in tact.
Here it is...
There's a special lacquer that goes over the top that won't 'kill' the chrome effect. Some of the lacquers can just make it go grey.
I'll give it a go on some styrene some time and see if it melts.
As for thinners, a good quality synthetic lacquer thinners with a low toluene content seems to be a good bet for leaving seals in tact.
I would think that if you do name that PTFE product followed by (T) (Which in a word (T) document the program automatically puts the T in a circle (works with C and R as well) )
That was todays bit of worthless bit of info. However, by doing that after a registered trade mark ® or Copy write © or trade mark (T) legal eagles will have a hard time proving intent to infringe a name, phrase or mark........
The Trade name Teflon (T) is easier to remember that PTFE and a lot easier to spell than Polytetrafluoroethylene!
I use cellulose thinners most of the time and just use the Alclad cleaner either after their primer or for a real good clean after a longer session.
Ian M
Useless info #2 PTFE is the only surface a Gekko cant walk up. its that slippery. that being said why do my pancakes always bloody stick to the pan!!!
That was todays bit of worthless bit of info. However, by doing that after a registered trade mark ® or Copy write © or trade mark (T) legal eagles will have a hard time proving intent to infringe a name, phrase or mark........
The Trade name Teflon (T) is easier to remember that PTFE and a lot easier to spell than Polytetrafluoroethylene!
I use cellulose thinners most of the time and just use the Alclad cleaner either after their primer or for a real good clean after a longer session.
Ian M
Useless info #2 PTFE is the only surface a Gekko cant walk up. its that slippery. that being said why do my pancakes always bloody stick to the pan!!!
:roses:\ said:
Ther are many different Alclads. The highly polished or chrome finishes definitely benefit from a gloss black undercoat and I think give a very realistic finish. I agree that on these many clear varnishes detract from the effect.
If you are after a duraluminium or aircraft aluminium finish I honestly don't believe that the black undercoat is needed. I've been applying various shades of aluminium over a grey primer for years and the finish looks realistic to me. I apply one coat of Klear as protective coat with minimal diminishing of the metallic finish.
Cheers
Steve
If you are after a duraluminium or aircraft aluminium finish I honestly don't believe that the black undercoat is needed. I've been applying various shades of aluminium over a grey primer for years and the finish looks realistic to me. I apply one coat of Klear as protective coat with minimal diminishing of the metallic finish.
Cheers
Steve
I think the only reason Alclad says to use a black base, Gloss for shiny metal and mat for the rest is two fold. The first being that the colours are matched/designed over a black base, which is only really needed if you want a more accurate colour metal. Second I find that the effect builds quicker over a black base coat. Not that I use black all the time either.
The only real test will be to do a couple of test paints with the same final coat given over differing base coats. Even then I think the differences will be hard to photograph.
Which ever way you go for a base coat the result will be great.
I have just noticed that on the shiny metal lacquers, it no longer says use over Alclad Gloss black base. It just says use over any gloss black paint......
Ian M
The only real test will be to do a couple of test paints with the same final coat given over differing base coats. Even then I think the differences will be hard to photograph.
Which ever way you go for a base coat the result will be great.
I have just noticed that on the shiny metal lacquers, it no longer says use over Alclad Gloss black base. It just says use over any gloss black paint......
Ian M
Thanks for the advice steve.Dont know when i will get round to trying it out as we are close to moving house.So i will have to put the modelling to one side whilst i sort out the new house.The good thing about moving is i will be upgrading from a draughty shed to a concrete garage for my modelling room.
G
Another thing Dave - not sure what the other guys do but I run my compressor at a lower pressure than I would normaly do , with the pigments being so fine the alclad comes out of the airbrush like water ( hence why its so good and expensive ) as you know a gloss black base coat is needed to get the true colour but you can also go over just primer or whatever base coat then go over with an aclad colour but it will come out a duller finnish I`m sure you will work it out for yourself mate but as Steve has said its all in the prep work to get a nice result ,
Good luck with the move ,
Cheers
Richy
Good luck with the move ,
Cheers
Richy
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