G
Thankyou Jim, Lost a good friend and still look for her.
G
Jakko, tell me about it. I am a novice caster regarding casting my own resin items, but for crying out loud how easy is it to check you have the mould set up correctly....
G
scottie, I do not think it is the age of the moulds, I put it down to a lack of proper quality control coupled with the excuse that you are an experienced modeller - sort it....
Mike
G
Update,
Many thanks to you all for your condolences, SWMBO had also added her thanks to you all.
Can I draw a line under the standard of the kit and production failures - we have actually been here before with my Chieftain Bridgelayer build/marathon. But thanks for all your input. Just off now to spend a week on the centurion and then back to this build.
Cheers,
Mike.
Many thanks to you all for your condolences, SWMBO had also added her thanks to you all.
Can I draw a line under the standard of the kit and production failures - we have actually been here before with my Chieftain Bridgelayer build/marathon. But thanks for all your input. Just off now to spend a week on the centurion and then back to this build.
Cheers,
Mike.
Whoooooooah, now that's a trailer. These two look like a "boatman" build.
G
Update,
A bit more work on the Antar today, still adding parts to the chassis...
Still plenty of filler to fill in the seams and air bubbles.....
Started work on the cab by first joining the back to the floor and then adding the dash board, gear levers/gates and the floor pedals along with the handbrake and foot pedals....
I will spread a bit of filler over the foot pedals to smooth them out and get rid of the seams. What looks like a fork handle is actually the hand throttle....
The seats during clean up and will be added once the cab is ready for the roof and top to be added.
Here is the roof part and in front is part one of the glazing you have to add and cut to size yourself, such fun....
And that is where I am today. Next it will be finishing off the glazing and then spray the inside with primer and top coat - wondering if aluminium was used, I know the inside of the 432's we had was painted in 'silver'..... Suggestions.
Cheers
Mike.
A bit more work on the Antar today, still adding parts to the chassis...
Still plenty of filler to fill in the seams and air bubbles.....
Started work on the cab by first joining the back to the floor and then adding the dash board, gear levers/gates and the floor pedals along with the handbrake and foot pedals....
I will spread a bit of filler over the foot pedals to smooth them out and get rid of the seams. What looks like a fork handle is actually the hand throttle....
The seats during clean up and will be added once the cab is ready for the roof and top to be added.
Here is the roof part and in front is part one of the glazing you have to add and cut to size yourself, such fun....
And that is where I am today. Next it will be finishing off the glazing and then spray the inside with primer and top coat - wondering if aluminium was used, I know the inside of the 432's we had was painted in 'silver'..... Suggestions.
Cheers
Mike.
G
British AFVs were painted with that silvery paint that apparently never really dried because it was supposed to help reflect the light and so make the interior a bit less dark — which would probably not be needed in the cab of a lorry. But I don’t know for sure — could well be there were painted like that too?
That stuff was aluminium based and very soft when dry…..…we used it to paint handrails and such when I first worked at Porton. Awful stuff, like painting with water…….I think the tins we got had been in store since WW2 :tongue-out3: . The pigment had settled so hard to the bottom of the tin we had to literally chisel it up with a screwdriver before it could be mixed.
If you went down the stairs too fast it would burn pigment into your palms……and it always felt wet…..
G
Oh, it was made by Humbrol, was it?
I’ve seen interior photos of Dutch Centurion MBTs that had been repainted inside with the pale green used in M113s, presumably because the Army had had enough of that silvery stuff that the tanks had been delivered in. Since the green was put over the silver paint (you can tell from how it went over many of the labels by careless brushwork), I wonder how securely it actually stuck to the vehicle.
G
Wibble nice to see this and sorry I'm late .
I have the Dinky model of this complete with the Cent , unfortunately the later has a broken barrel :crying:
Wobble . Look out for men with pointed shoes, they are about !
I have the Dinky model of this complete with the Cent , unfortunately the later has a broken barrel :crying:
Wobble . Look out for men with pointed shoes, they are about !
Just had a look in Mike Starmer's British Camouflage notes, Soft skins interiors where normally painted with the same paint as the main external body colour as given at the factory.
I must admit that the price AA take for their models, I would expect them to be pristine A1 mouldings! I Have seen three 'much needed' kits from them, the 4.7 Heavy AA gun. the 4.5 and 7inch guns. But from what I have seen of other kits, I think I will pass.
I must admit that the price AA take for their models, I would expect them to be pristine A1 mouldings! I Have seen three 'much needed' kits from them, the 4.7 Heavy AA gun. the 4.5 and 7inch guns. But from what I have seen of other kits, I think I will pass.
G
Jakko & Tim,
Now I remember!!!! Yes it was absolute cr4p to apply, you would start off with a flat brush and after ten minutes it would look like a tiolet brush, and we used to remove any excess with petrol soaked cotton waste which made it even worse, and after six months the stuff was still tacky.... So 'silver' it will be. Thanks for reminding me.
Mike
Now I remember!!!! Yes it was absolute cr4p to apply, you would start off with a flat brush and after ten minutes it would look like a tiolet brush, and we used to remove any excess with petrol soaked cotton waste which made it even worse, and after six months the stuff was still tacky.... So 'silver' it will be. Thanks for reminding me.
Mike
G
Ian,
Many thanks for the reminder about Mike Starmers booklets, I have them on the shelf and totally forgot.
As for the AA kits, I fully agree, if you paid out for a plastic kit of the same price it would be an all singing all dancing kit. But needs must and being flush with cash at the time..... well the rest is a long story....
Mike
G
Hello Wobble, no need to panic, this will be long and slow, so plenty of time to catch up... I have people on here that arrived, fell asleep and are now covered in cobwebs with their families advertising in the lost and found columns.....
Shame about the Dinky Centurion, if it had been 1/35 scale I could have sent you a replacement metal barrel....
The pointy shoe brigade are in hibernation or deceased as I have not heard him late at night having his normal clear out....
Bet you laughed about the chair, Yvonne did, was laughing as she was about halfway up the stairs.....
Wibble.
Just for you Pete!........my Antar was played with but the Centurion is still Mint in the Box. :thumb2:
Just had a Ketchup on this Mr. Wibble The dreaded resin kits are a last resort for me........just a matter of how bad I want the model that it represents. I would rather spend hours cutting up a plastic model and adding untold amounts of scratched details even though the model is available in resin with nicely done detail on it already.........just hate gluing me pinkies together I guess. You on the other hand are doing a great job on this so far hope to see more on it soon.
Sorry to hear about Mavis.....When I lost my last Springer Spaniel I had to take a week off.
Sorry to hear about Mavis.....When I lost my last Springer Spaniel I had to take a week off.
G
Hello Rick,
Thankfully I now have very few resin kits in my stash, and I agree with what you say about scratbuilding. But when the cash is available this seemed at the time to be the easy answer. Yes i have come close to glueing parts of myself to the model...
Many thanks for your input.
Mike.
G
Update,
So the fun continues.... I got out the prayer mat and recieved devine instructions, at least the parts of the instructions you will need when doing the major assembly, such as where do the fuel tanks fit???? By looking and looking at the vague instruction photos I spotted the brackets for the fule tanks, they have now been cleaned up and dry fitted, but I need to add the strapping to the tanks from scratch as the resin - well it is resin.....
I then cleaned up the radiator cover and it fitted as it should - but then came the radiator, and as I want to fit it after the chassis is painted did a dry run - it does not fit!
This is what it should do....
And this is what happens when you try to fit it between the front wings - notice the gap of about 2mm. I had already removed a filter fitting from the right side of the radiator and it now looks like I will have to cut away the sloped lower sides to get a fit - more later....
I then looked at the rear fenders and as I plan to paint the chassis and all attached parts at the same time decided to investigate these... So from earlier in the build and in the first two pages you are informed to fit the springs and axles, done that! At no point does it tell you or show you that in fact you cannot fit the reat fender after.....
Above you can see the right side fender attached - but if you look closely you can see that the front support is no actually touching as it should. Because if you do it the way it comes then the fender will take on a distinctly downward slope from the chassis outwards.
Here again is the left fender showing the same problem. Also note that the rear of the two supports is actually missing, because you cannot get this support to fit behind the springs without cutting away the part of it that glues to the chassis.
So the solution is to ignore the instructions and to fit the fenders first, and most importantly make sure they are square and flat across the chassis, then you can fit the springs and axles, and to do this I set up a flat surface of wood block, laid on a good lashing of c/a where the join is on both sides, then carefully attached the fenders and waited untill the c/a was just at the stage where it starts to harden, then turn the whole upside down and lay it on the block and make sure it is square and flat. And as I have said then you can attach the springs etc. Not hard to do if the instructions had pointed out this, but a pain to try to sort it out after. Still they are now on and I can get back to the next problem - assembling the new office chair....
Cheers
Mike.
So the fun continues.... I got out the prayer mat and recieved devine instructions, at least the parts of the instructions you will need when doing the major assembly, such as where do the fuel tanks fit???? By looking and looking at the vague instruction photos I spotted the brackets for the fule tanks, they have now been cleaned up and dry fitted, but I need to add the strapping to the tanks from scratch as the resin - well it is resin.....
I then cleaned up the radiator cover and it fitted as it should - but then came the radiator, and as I want to fit it after the chassis is painted did a dry run - it does not fit!
This is what it should do....
And this is what happens when you try to fit it between the front wings - notice the gap of about 2mm. I had already removed a filter fitting from the right side of the radiator and it now looks like I will have to cut away the sloped lower sides to get a fit - more later....
I then looked at the rear fenders and as I plan to paint the chassis and all attached parts at the same time decided to investigate these... So from earlier in the build and in the first two pages you are informed to fit the springs and axles, done that! At no point does it tell you or show you that in fact you cannot fit the reat fender after.....
Above you can see the right side fender attached - but if you look closely you can see that the front support is no actually touching as it should. Because if you do it the way it comes then the fender will take on a distinctly downward slope from the chassis outwards.
Here again is the left fender showing the same problem. Also note that the rear of the two supports is actually missing, because you cannot get this support to fit behind the springs without cutting away the part of it that glues to the chassis.
So the solution is to ignore the instructions and to fit the fenders first, and most importantly make sure they are square and flat across the chassis, then you can fit the springs and axles, and to do this I set up a flat surface of wood block, laid on a good lashing of c/a where the join is on both sides, then carefully attached the fenders and waited untill the c/a was just at the stage where it starts to harden, then turn the whole upside down and lay it on the block and make sure it is square and flat. And as I have said then you can attach the springs etc. Not hard to do if the instructions had pointed out this, but a pain to try to sort it out after. Still they are now on and I can get back to the next problem - assembling the new office chair....
Cheers
Mike.
Making good progress Mike. It's only your skill and patience that is keeping this off the shelf of doom. A lot to do to overcome the shortcomings of the kit. I have no doubt, however, that it will be a really fine result. I hope the trailer is less problematic.
Mike, this looks like a less than enjoyable build mate. I have to admire your perseverance.
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