discussion Attaching windows

[Waspie]

Silly question, but tis been a long time. The time has come to fix the windows into my kit. Simple. But! The locations they have to fit have been sprayed with acrylic. In days of yor I would have scraped off the paint around the windows, Put a blob of cement down and stick in place.
With acrylic, do I need to scrape off the paint or will it accept the glue, (Tamiya thin), then offer the window to its location?
Basic I know but I'd rather appear dim than cock up!!

 

[adt70hk]

Hi Doug

No scraping need.

I use a special modelling window glue as below. Other brands are available but from what I gather they're not much more than a specialist PVA. Some people just use PVA......

Others may be able to offer other ideas.

ATB.

Andrew


https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/50...iMrOBzKvCP_n5sFr9oMXFP470V3Gjg3kaAsfeEALw_wcB

 

[Andy T]

You might be safer using something like pva if you don't have a specific canopy glue.

TET certainly works but it can have a tendency to run where you don't want it to on clear parts and can even "fog" them unless you're uber careful

Edit: a tad too slow with my reply..

 

[Waspie]

You might be safer using something like pva if you don't have a specific canopy glue.

TET certainly works but it can have a tendency to run where you don't want it to on clear parts and can even "fog" them unless you're uber careful

Edit: a tad too slow with my reply..

I remember 'fogging' from my thick Airfix Glue tubes way back. (Plus the terrible finger print that always seemed to present itself).
I was only a young teenager!!!!:rolling:

 

[Waspie]

Hi Doug

No scraping need.

I use a special modelling window glue as below. Other brands are available but from what I gather they're not much more than a specialist PVA. Some people just use PVA......

Others may be able to offer other ideas.

ATB.

Andrew


https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/50...iMrOBzKvCP_n5sFr9oMXFP470V3Gjg3kaAsfeEALw_wcB

Thanks Andrew.

 

[Guest]

a specific canopy glue.

And with some of those, you also have to be careful. Humbrol’s, for example, won’t fog or craze clear parts but will dissolve dried acrylic paint — so if you’re not careful you might end up with a smear of paint on the window instead (he says from experience).

 

[Jim R]

Lots of special glues around but PVA does work. It doesn't fog the clear part and dries clear. Also any smears are easily cleaned up with a brush dampened with water.
One thing to be aware of is the bond is not that strong so don't press too hard if later you're masking the clear parts. Once you've pushed a window inside a model it can be a b****r to retrieve. I still have a model that has a rattle :rolling:

 

[Waspie]

I still have a model that has a rattle :rolling:

That would have been a target for the air rifle!! I've matured a little since then!

 

[Waspie]

How about superglue? Is that any good or does it react to plastic?

 

[Jim R]

Some say the fumes from CA can cause fogging. What I've done successfully is fit the window/canopy with PVA and then very carefully wick thin CA into the join in a few places. I use a thin piece of wire to dip into the CA and pick up just a tiny amount and touch it to the join. The glue will wick into and along the join.

 

[Waspie]

Some say the fumes from CA can cause fogging. What I've done successfully is fit the window/canopy with PVA and then very carefully wick thin CA into the join in a few places. I use a thin piece of wire to dip into the CA and pick up just a tiny amount and touch it to the join. The glue will wick into and along the join.

Excuse my ignorance - CA?

 

[Andy T]

Cyanoacrylate = super glue :smiling4:

 

[davecov]

I use Pacer's Zap Formula 560 Canopy Glue PT56 for fixing canopies, windows, lights etc. It is similar to PVA but is of a thinner consistency.

Dave

 

[stona]

I use G-S Hypo Cement. It has a gel like consistency and a needle applicator making it easy to keep away from areas where it's not wanted. It makes a very strong bond. A tube will last for a very long time.

It will not fog clear parts and dries clear itself.

 

[Jim R]

I use G-S Hypo Cement

That sounds like a product worth trying :thumb2:

 

[adt70hk]

I use G-S Hypo Cement. It has a gel like consistency and a needle applicator making it easy to keep away from areas where it's not wanted. It makes a very strong bond. A tube will last for a very long time.

It will not fog clear parts and dries clear itself.

That sounds like a product worth trying :thumb2:

Ordered. Have never felt 100% about Glue 'n' Glaze....

 

[Guest]

That glue.

Ordered. Have never felt 100% about Glue 'n' Glaze....

Fully agree Andrew, not that I've built many models requiring screens but is messey to apply .

 

[adt70hk]

That glue.

Fully agree Andrew, not that I've built many models requiring screens but is messey to apply .

Ok. So it wasn't just me.....you also waste a lot if you use the plastic needle applicator because I'm always wary of it drying in there and so clean it out each time....

 

[Tim Marlow]

I use Pacer's Zap Formula 560 Canopy Glue PT56 for fixing canopies, windows, lights etc. It is similar to PVA but is of a thinner consistency.

Dave

Plus one on the formula 560. I also use it on cockpit etch sometimes because it gives a more flexible bond than CA…

 

[Waspie]

Experimented with what I have available. CA and Tamiya thin! The Tamiya was awful, one window fogged, the other caused a minor reaction with the pant below the transparent window. Luckily it was internal so won't be visible!!!
The CA, (superglue), was fine, no fogging - no visible reaction.
Currently waiting for Humbol Maskol to set. Then it'll be mating the two fuselage half's together!!!
Pics later - Maybe!!!!!