discussion (Beginner) Washing the parts before starting

[Guest]

Hi, Absolute beginner here.
I'm writing down all steps before starting tonight, as for the washing part..

Do I leave them in soap + warm water for a while, if yes how long? And after that should I just leave them out to dry on a towel?

 

[stillp]

Hi Miguel, many people don't bother washing the sprues, but I've never heard of anyone having trouble because the parts are too clean! I would just swirl tthem about in a bowl of warm soapy water for a few minutes, then rinse, shake off as much water as you can, pat dry with a paper towel then leave them to air-dry.
Pete

 

[Jim R]

Hi Miguel
I totally agree with Pete. Personally I never wash plastic sprues. THIS recent thread may be of interest.
Jim

 

[Guest]

Thanks @stillp I'm going to follow your advice, How long do you guess the air drying would take? I suppose overnight?

 

[stillp]

Depends how warm and airy the room is. An hour or two should be plenty.

Pete

 

[Ian M]

Make sure that the water is just warm and NOT hot. Plastic and hot water are not a great mix. Wash them off and lay them on kitchen roll befor you go to work/Bed and they should be ready when you come home of get up!

Moved this to modelling chat.

 

[PaulTRose]

warm water......old tooth brush.....very gentle scrubbing, try not to break any thing.......stand up some where to air dry over night

 

[scottie3158]

Hi Miguel,
First welcome to the forum and as for washing the sprues, the other guys have said it all.

 

[Jim R]

The main reason I don't wash the sprues is that I feel that all the handling and sanding the parts are going to get putting the model together, I'm better off cleaning just before priming/painting.
Jim

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Miguel
Welcome aboard.

 

[Peej]

Hi Miguel. Welcome to the forum. In the past I have washed some kits and others I have not. I haven't noticed any difference so now I don't bother and just start with the build.

 

[BarryW]

I also never wash the sprues, but before spraying paint I do wipe the parts to be sprayed down with i.p.a., getting into the detail with a cotton bud. Also it is worth using disposable gloves when handling after that, as finger grease can be an issue when spraying. Also this washing does remove dust etc from sanding. Be careful not to jeave fibres behind caught on the detail.

 

[Guest]

I also never wash the sprues, but before spraying paint I do wipe the parts to be sprayed down with i.p.a., getting into the detail with a cotton bud. Also it is worth using disposable gloves when handling after that, as finger grease can be an issue when spraying. Also this washing does remove dust etc from sanding. Be careful not to jeave fibres behind caught on the detail.

Thanks for your reply! What do you mean with I.P.A? I only know that as type of beer.
What do you mean with "jeaving fibres behind caught on the detail"?

 

[BarryW]

If you are rubbing i.p.a. into detail with a cotton bud, kitchen towel or cloth then fibres will get caught up on that detail.

ipa is what our American cousins call rubbing alcohol and stands for Isopropyl Alcohol. You can get it off Amazon and if you buy it in larger quantities, it is very cheap. It is good for cleaning brushes and air-brushes of acrylic paint. If you do buy a large quantity then be careful of storage as it is flamable (I buy boxes of 5 x 1 litre bottles at a time as it is easier to dispense than larger containers)

Among the uses I put it to:
...Cleaning parts pre-painting as mentioned
...Rinsing through the airbrush for colour changes (I use MRP solvent based acrylic) it suppliments using more expensive thinner/Mr Tool Cleaner
...Washing brushes that I have used with Vallejo water based paint
...Liquid seam sanding. This is a good option for removing surplus filler when you have filled a seam and want to avoid losing detail with ordinary sanding. Vallejo Plastic Putty or the Gunze fillers, Mr Disolved Putty and Mr Surfacer work well with this. You do have to rub hard with the cotton bud and let the ipa soak the filler a bit in the process.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Barry

Liquid seam sanding. This is a good option for removing surplus filler when you have filled a seam and want to avoid losing detail with ordinary sanding. Vallejo Plastic Putty or the Gunze fillers, Mr Disolved Putty and Mr Surfacer work well with this. You do have to rub hard with the cotton bud and let the ipa soak the filler a bit in the process.

Now that sounds like a very useful idea.
Thanks
Jim

 

[zuludog]

I don't think I've ever washed sprues before assembly, or when a model's assembled but before painting, in normal use, though I gave washed a model during assembly if I've done some extensive work like a lot of filling & sanding for poorly fitting parts or a conversion.

The method I use is to put some lukewarm water in a jar or cup, then add just a drop of washing up liquid. I wash it over with a cheap soft brush; for years I've used a size 7 squirrel hair brush. I normally use this brush dry for sweeping away dust from sanding

If I've used tape to hold parts together while gluing, typically fuselage halves, after I've removed it I wipe the area with a cotton bud & white spirit, then wash as above

I almost always use enamel paints, so perhaps these are not as affected by a small amount of oil as water based acrylics

 

[BarryW]

I don't think I've ever washed sprues before assembly, or when a model's assembled but before painting, in normal use, though I gave washed a model during assembly if I've done some extensive work like a lot of filling & sanding for poorly fitting parts or a conversion.

The method I use is to put some lukewarm water in a jar or cup, then add just a drop of washing up liquid. I wash it over with a cheap soft brush; for years I've used a size 7 squirrel hair brush. I normally use this brush dry for sweeping away dust from sanding

If I've used tape to hold parts together while gluing, typically fuselage halves, after I've removed it I wipe the area with a cotton bud & white spirit, then wash as above

I almost always use enamel paints, so perhaps these are not as affected by a small amount of oil as water based acrylics

I remember when I used to use enamels when young and you are right they are less problematical for oil or grease residue. But it is not only water based acrylics that are affected. I find that solvent based acrylics can also be affected and when I have not cleaned the plastic sometime you can see a reaction on the plastic.