Best masking tape.
- Thread starter outrunner
- Start date
Andy
I know Tamiya do a curvy/bendy tape. I have some bit have not used it yet. My version is white.
Sorry I can't be of much more help.
Andrew
I know Tamiya do a curvy/bendy tape. I have some bit have not used it yet. My version is white.
Sorry I can't be of much more help.
Andrew
Hi Andy
I have always used Tamiya tape and found it good stuff. Tamiya do a tape for curves. It is a kind of white, plastic stuff that will go round curves though I doubt it would go round sharp bends. It comes in 2mm, 3mm and 5mm widths. Here I used it for the curve and filled in with ordinary Tamiya tape.
Jim
I have always used Tamiya tape and found it good stuff. Tamiya do a tape for curves. It is a kind of white, plastic stuff that will go round curves though I doubt it would go round sharp bends. It comes in 2mm, 3mm and 5mm widths. Here I used it for the curve and filled in with ordinary Tamiya tape.
Jim
G
90 degree curves how? As in: you want to mask up a panel and then up and over onto the roof? Pretty much any masking tape should be able to do that, I would think. Or do you mean you want to mask a right-angle curve on a single panel?
Sorry, I should have said in the question it is a right angle curve on a single panel each side.
Andy.
G
I'd second Jim with Tamiyas tape for curves. If you can get it, 3m blue fine line tape is similar but slightly better in my opinion, having used both.
The thinner the tape the tighter curves it can do, but the more filling in with other tape you'll need, so bare that in mind when choosing. Personally I'd go for the thinnest.
The thinner the tape the tighter curves it can do, but the more filling in with other tape you'll need, so bare that in mind when choosing. Personally I'd go for the thinnest.
G
In that case, an alternative to narrow tape is to cut the curve from a larger piece of tape before putting it onto the model, then adding more tape to continue the straight edges.
G
Found the best tapes for both release & for flexibility are plastic.
I use Tamiya plastic tape & also car lining tape. All can be stretched around
a curve better than any of the paper tapes.
An advantage of plastic tapes they are not prone to wetting on the edge
as are paper tapes which leads to leaching of paint under the tape.
On any tape recommend cutting a new leading edge. All tapes tend to have
the adhesive slightly creep on the edge. Plus the machines cutting the rolls we
use from very large lengths are not all that good. A cut with a Morton blade
gives a pristine edge.
The car lining tapes.
Finespray Fine line Green Tape 6mm * 55m. Great for very straight lines. Only need
one width of tape if you cut a pristine edge to the width required.
3M™ Fine Line Masking Tape Blue - 6mm x 32.9m Brilliant for stretching around
acute corners. Cut this down to just one millimeter in width to get around a very
acute bend.
Only need one width of tape on both the above if you cut a pristine edge to the
width required. A roll of each will last a life time.
I have not had any paint leaching under with these two tapes. No need to mitre
or butt joints just over lap & bed down on the overlap. Use gently the back edge
of a Morton blade or similar to push down tape into panel lines & on the overlaps
Laurie
I use Tamiya plastic tape & also car lining tape. All can be stretched around
a curve better than any of the paper tapes.
An advantage of plastic tapes they are not prone to wetting on the edge
as are paper tapes which leads to leaching of paint under the tape.
On any tape recommend cutting a new leading edge. All tapes tend to have
the adhesive slightly creep on the edge. Plus the machines cutting the rolls we
use from very large lengths are not all that good. A cut with a Morton blade
gives a pristine edge.
The car lining tapes.
Finespray Fine line Green Tape 6mm * 55m. Great for very straight lines. Only need
one width of tape if you cut a pristine edge to the width required.
3M™ Fine Line Masking Tape Blue - 6mm x 32.9m Brilliant for stretching around
acute corners. Cut this down to just one millimeter in width to get around a very
acute bend.
Only need one width of tape on both the above if you cut a pristine edge to the
width required. A roll of each will last a life time.
I have not had any paint leaching under with these two tapes. No need to mitre
or butt joints just over lap & bed down on the overlap. Use gently the back edge
of a Morton blade or similar to push down tape into panel lines & on the overlaps
Laurie
Laurie's got it right especially the cutting for that clean edge. From a single one inch thick tape I would tape a suitable length on a piece of glass and slice thin strips about one to two mm and work with sharp nosed tweezers when applying on canopies. I try not to use the pieces with the side ends of the tape as they would likely have dust or fibres. Lock one end of the tape onto the surface and teese the tape round corners with the tweezer. You'll never get anything done with fingers for tight corners unless you're a Liliputian.
Cheers,
Richard
Cheers,
Richard
Laurie and Richard
That idea of cutting a clean edge to avoid dust, dirt and glue is one I'll remember - thanks :thumb2:
Jim
That idea of cutting a clean edge to avoid dust, dirt and glue is one I'll remember - thanks :thumb2:
Jim
G
And avoid putting your roll of tape down on the bench or just slinging it in a drawer. Keep it in a bag or dispenser so that the exposed glue on the edge of the tape doesn't pick up contaminants.
G
I use a DVD disc to cut tape & also PE frets.
Does not slip (PE) plus it is kind to Mortons.
Also use the American Razor which is much finer than a Morton blade.
Also use the American Razor for cutting PE from the fret. So fine that
in most cases you do not have to file off that rough bit. Cheap as chips
& you have two edges on each blade.
PS. Good idea to just tape one end temporarily. Saves on blood. :smiling6:
Another thing that I have picked up with in the disaster experience area.
Keep the amount of tape in contact with paint to a minimum. Just use
enough thickness of tape to mask then use tracing paper or similar to
stick over the masking tape. Then there is the minimum likelihood of
paint stripping .
B & Q market a very thin foam roll which is used under hard flooring.
Perfect for filling in masked areas. Easily cut or torn paint proof & also
forms easily to rounded surfaces. From memory about £10 per roll.
Laurie
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/American...058006&hash=item3cf5687844:g:Y-AAAOSwSlBY3SZw
Does not slip (PE) plus it is kind to Mortons.
Also use the American Razor which is much finer than a Morton blade.
Also use the American Razor for cutting PE from the fret. So fine that
in most cases you do not have to file off that rough bit. Cheap as chips
& you have two edges on each blade.
PS. Good idea to just tape one end temporarily. Saves on blood. :smiling6:
Another thing that I have picked up with in the disaster experience area.
Keep the amount of tape in contact with paint to a minimum. Just use
enough thickness of tape to mask then use tracing paper or similar to
stick over the masking tape. Then there is the minimum likelihood of
paint stripping .
B & Q market a very thin foam roll which is used under hard flooring.
Perfect for filling in masked areas. Easily cut or torn paint proof & also
forms easily to rounded surfaces. From memory about £10 per roll.
Laurie
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/American...058006&hash=item3cf5687844:g:Y-AAAOSwSlBY3SZw
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