Great job with the channel cutting Chris. You have great skill and patience. Adding the electrics is a huge amount of work.
Boatmans Super Tomcat F14D Build
- Thread starter boatman
- Start date
HI Jim yes i was a nervous wreck after doin that channell cutting as just one slip of the dremel an i could have gone right through the wings or tails veticals so had to concentrate really hard but it was a releif to have done it as they would not have fitted togeather otherwise an it took a fair while to do but by doin a small bit at a time i got there in the end but like all modelin it just a matter of patience an enjoy the modeling but still more leds to fit in her so got to think ahead if possible as ive got to fit all these wires togeather all pos an negs wires to mini eletric plug
CHEERS for havin a look see
chrisb
Things do start to be fun once lights are involved.
Good trick with the tape to hold the part by the way.
Good trick with the tape to hold the part by the way.
G
Great work Chris, I still can't believe it's a plane!
THANKS Ian
AN hi John yes beleive it or not its part of the plane an a lot more still to go togeather this may take a yr or so to finish how i want it but its moddelin thats all that matters
CHEERS
Chrisb
HI ALL well i know i havnt shown a lot done on that tomcat an i havnt im afraid as been lookin at U TUBE build vids an no im not goin to do all that wheatherin an such but on one utube it shows a chap usein a red oil pen pics below as i will have a great use for this doin all them undercart doors on the tomcat an my superhornet so can anyone advise me where i can obtain one ?
for doin this red on them undercart doors edges
for doin this red on them undercart doors edges
OH an another qeustion while i think of it as on them utube vids i see they use TAMYIA clear glue with a brush fitted to the lid an they just brush it on now how long does it take to glue properly an when just brushin it on the outside will it show up as a mess ?
chrisb
chrisb
I've used Pilot acrylic paint pens from a high street stationery store Chris, but I don't know where you'd get an oil-based one.
Pete
Pete
Mr Google suggests Hobbycraft Chris. Is there one near you?
Pete
Edit: John has these in the shop: https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/gundam-marker-ex-shine-red-xgm-03-mr-hobby/
Pete
Edit: John has these in the shop: https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/gundam-marker-ex-shine-red-xgm-03-mr-hobby/
Chris,
Talk about late to the party - just come across this thread and been reading with interest. Picked up some handy tips; thanks.
With (1) the brush is quite big. Some folks cut some of the strands off to make a smaller brush. Personally, I prefer to apply using the tip of a cocktail stick. I have managed to get this on the outside where it's not wanted and it behaves just like Revell Contacta. So you can gauge the lumps that need to be addressed. Cure time is about the same as Revell/Humbrol.
With (2) the brush is fine and pointed. Fit the two parts together, dip the brush in the jar and dab the point of the brush into the seam. Capillary action will draw the glue along the seam. Dependent upon the length of the seam, repeat the previous step at regular intervals along the seam. Just be careful not to flood the seam by putting too much glue in. This is a really good glue for filling in seams where the original application has been insufficient. Keep putting the cap back on between uses as this stuff evaporated quite quickly.
With (3) the two parts MUST be fitted tightly together. It is useless for glueing parts together when there is a gap. It is like (2) above in that it spreads by capillary action but it dries like the clappers so you must return the cap to the bottle after every use. Having said this, it is a god-send. If you've got a couple of parts that you can't clamp/tape in position then simply hold them in place in the right orientation (keeping your fingers away from the glue line) and place a tiny dab of this glue on the tight seam line. You'll only need to hold it in place for 30 secs tops before you can let go.
Same as paint, there's a difference between drying time and curing time. I've found (2) will be dry and on-going usable after about 5 minutes whereas (1) will be at that state after 1 minute tops. But, to be fully-cured I would reckon these times go out to 48 hours and 24 hours respectively.
I have ended up in a guddle with both of the Extra Thins in getting them on the outside where I shouldn't have. But they don't make the mess that normal glues do because they are so thin. They tend to end up as a flat film of glue on the surface. The trick is to leave well alone, even if you spot it immediately. Just let it set and it is then easy to sand off as if it was never there.
With both of the Extra Thins, you dab at select points. This minimises any mess on the seams. I have seen folk brushing along the seams, in fact I have done it on quite a few occasions, but it seems to be a bit of a superfluous action as the glue is drawn along the seam by capillary action anyway. To me, this just increases the risk factor of painting neighbouring surfaces every time I wobble.
So, having read this thread so far and noticing that you're highlighting the increasing wobbles, trialling some (2) might be a useful experiment for you since it is spot-applied. The Tamiya product code is 87038 and John has it in the shop.
Hope this helps.
John
Talk about late to the party - just come across this thread and been reading with interest. Picked up some handy tips; thanks.
For me, there are three Tamiya glues:
- Tamiya Cement (White Top)
- Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (Dark Green Top)
- Tamiya Extra Thin Cement - Quick Setting (Light Green Top)
With (1) the brush is quite big. Some folks cut some of the strands off to make a smaller brush. Personally, I prefer to apply using the tip of a cocktail stick. I have managed to get this on the outside where it's not wanted and it behaves just like Revell Contacta. So you can gauge the lumps that need to be addressed. Cure time is about the same as Revell/Humbrol.
With (2) the brush is fine and pointed. Fit the two parts together, dip the brush in the jar and dab the point of the brush into the seam. Capillary action will draw the glue along the seam. Dependent upon the length of the seam, repeat the previous step at regular intervals along the seam. Just be careful not to flood the seam by putting too much glue in. This is a really good glue for filling in seams where the original application has been insufficient. Keep putting the cap back on between uses as this stuff evaporated quite quickly.
With (3) the two parts MUST be fitted tightly together. It is useless for glueing parts together when there is a gap. It is like (2) above in that it spreads by capillary action but it dries like the clappers so you must return the cap to the bottle after every use. Having said this, it is a god-send. If you've got a couple of parts that you can't clamp/tape in position then simply hold them in place in the right orientation (keeping your fingers away from the glue line) and place a tiny dab of this glue on the tight seam line. You'll only need to hold it in place for 30 secs tops before you can let go.
Same as paint, there's a difference between drying time and curing time. I've found (2) will be dry and on-going usable after about 5 minutes whereas (1) will be at that state after 1 minute tops. But, to be fully-cured I would reckon these times go out to 48 hours and 24 hours respectively.
I have ended up in a guddle with both of the Extra Thins in getting them on the outside where I shouldn't have. But they don't make the mess that normal glues do because they are so thin. They tend to end up as a flat film of glue on the surface. The trick is to leave well alone, even if you spot it immediately. Just let it set and it is then easy to sand off as if it was never there.
With both of the Extra Thins, you dab at select points. This minimises any mess on the seams. I have seen folk brushing along the seams, in fact I have done it on quite a few occasions, but it seems to be a bit of a superfluous action as the glue is drawn along the seam by capillary action anyway. To me, this just increases the risk factor of painting neighbouring surfaces every time I wobble.
So, having read this thread so far and noticing that you're highlighting the increasing wobbles, trialling some (2) might be a useful experiment for you since it is spot-applied. The Tamiya product code is 87038 and John has it in the shop.
Hope this helps.
John
Have you got those the wrong way round John? Surely the Extra Thin dries faster than the white top cement.
Pete
Aaaarrrggghhh! That is defined as muppet mode :rolling:. Meaning one thing and not noticing I've typed something different.
You're absolutely right. I meant to write "I've found (2) will be dry and on-going usable after about 5 minutes whereas (3) will be at that state after 1 minute tops." i.e. the Quick-Setting will be QUICK!
Is there any hope? :rolling:
Please don't answer that :smiling5:
MANY THANKS Pete for info i'll have a look at it
chrisb
AN CHEERS John for your info also as ive bought some tamyia extra clear i think it is but never used it yet as this is my first plane build in yonks as my hms tiger build kept me goin for 5 yrs or so an still dont know if its finished due to eletrics but hope to find out when warmer wheather an a norwich boat club open day
cheers ATB AN NO I WONT ANSWER THAT LOL
chrisb
HELLO ALL well done a bit more on the big cat an im in the process of fittin in a flashin A/C light just under the nose cameras an here ive just threaded the led wires through the tiny hole but i removed the resistor firstly now gettin ready to glue it in postion 
an fitted an it flashes lovely as on my other tomcat i dint know about a ANTI -COLLISHION LIGHT FITTED HERE so this one is in the right place but i havnt glued the camera unit to gether yet as i may fit another led to shine out throgh the front glass
an fitted an it flashes lovely as on my other tomcat i dint know about a ANTI -COLLISHION LIGHT FITTED HERE so this one is in the right place but i havnt glued the camera unit to gether yet as i may fit another led to shine out throgh the front glass
G
Nice Chris.
THANKS John yes now ive got to do a bit of thinkin ahead before i do any more may build the undercart an fit in the white leds landing lights
but im havin trouble findin stuff that i need as look everywhere an not find it only for it to turn up when im lookin for something else Aaaarrrrccc
chrisb
G
Just had a read through your build and you are doing some amazing work on a basic kit and adding life to it - well done Chris...
Coming on a treat Chris 
THANKS Mike mate yes i always like to try an bring life to my models as it keeps the instrest of the person lookin at it same as on my ships always some one askin about how i did this or that
CHEERS Mike for stoppin an havin a read through the thread
ATB
chrisb
THANKS Bri
yes keepin the ole grey cells busy thinkin ahead lol
chrisb
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