discussion Canopy Glue - What do you use?

[Guest]

Hi,

I popped out today to pick up some clear PVA glue to attach the canopy glass onto the Spitfire. I thought great, it'll dry clear and easy to use.

So I applied the PVA and held the canopies in place for a few hours with some Tamiya tape. Whilst very carefully removing the tape the canopies virtually fell off!

I made sure the PVA was dry and was also gluing directly to the plastic as well.

So, what do you guys use to attach your glasswork?

I've been looking at Microscale Crystal Clear and Humbrol Clearfix online tonight. Any preference between these, any pitfalls? Do they cause the clear perspex to frost or melt if used too heavily and most importantly.... are they strong enough to hold my canopy on.

Thanks,

Colin.

 

[AlanG]

I use Microscale Kristal Klear and Gator's Grip Acrylic glues. They don't cause fogging of the clear parts at all

 

[stona]

I use Microscale Kristal Klear and Gator's Grip Acrylic glues. They don't cause fogging of the clear parts at all

Exactly the same here.

I've used Clearfix as well in the past,they all work fine. I used to have a tube of the glue watchmakers use for fixing glasses which was very strong but it seems to have dematerialised so I can't tell you what it was called!

Steve

Found it! It's called GS Hypo Cement. The good thing is that it dries fast,about ten minutes.

 

[Dave W]

I use clearfix and crystal clear.Crystal clear is better at filling gaps in poorly fitting canopies.So you dont get paint from your airbrush through to the inside of the canopies.

 

[Guest]

I use standard superglue, decant a puddle to a piece of paper, then with an old needle in a pin vice I touch drops to the part of the canopy that touches the frame, just a few tiny drops and provided the fit is good it'll grab and stick like, well, like sticky stuff Because you're only using tiny drops little chance of fogging, i've not fogged one canopy yet with this method, like you I discovered PVA didn't work well for me

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the info. guys.

I think I'll try the Microscale Krystal Klear but I'm interested in that watch repairers glue.

Atb,

Colin

 

[Guest]

Change of plan, went for the GS Hypo Cement.

That looks like a precise applicator and an easy glue to use, even cleans off with IPA if you manage to spill it.

Thanks for the heads up Steve (Stona).

 

[tr1ckey66]

Cooperman

I use this stuff - it's pretty good. Be careful though as capillary action causes the stuff to continually come out of the hypodermic nozzle.

Cheers

Paul

 

[Guest]

I use krystal klear for all clear parts, and to hold small parts to cocktail sticks for painting

 

[Ian M]

Another Krystal Klear user. I like it for all of the above and that its a water clean up. So absolutely no risk of paint damage.

You can also you Johnsson Klear but not so good for filling gaps.

Ian M

 

[Guest]

I've always used formula 560 canopy glue, I'll have to try this Krystal Klear of which you speak

 

[Guest]

Just as a follow up, I received some GS Hypo Cement in the post today and just used it..... it's great stuff!!

So easy and precise to apply.

Thanks for the advice Steve (Stona).

 

[Guest]

Odorless(foam safe)thick Ca glue has worked real well for me and it wo'nt fog the canopy

 

[Guest]

Another thanks Steve. Got my GS Hypo Cement yesterday.

Nice thing is that it has such a precise yet simple system of applying the glue. Particularly good for fixing small port hole windows where precision is essential.

Laurie

 

[Guest]

Hi I wish I had come across this site/forum before today as yesterday I made a mess of fitting my windows into my Beaver model with epoxy, most times when I have used it to fit windows I do a decent enough job but yesterday I made a mess of it when I ended up dropping one of the windows and had to try and recover it from the inside and ended up with the epoxy all over the window and I doubt it will come off so its either leave it a mess or have a go at vacuum forming a couple of new ones which I have done in the past just using a hot air gun and a soft brush (I don't have the room for a vacuum forming machine) and the past attempts normally come out ok.


Regards Poppy Ann.

 

[Robert1968]

I have used revell canopy glue and this comes with an a small brush in the lid and works fine on most plastic kits with canopies or glass ( windows for kits ) I always leave till quite tacky before applying part also use a pair of surgical gloves on polished canopies to stop finger prints


Regards


Robert

 

[Vaughan]

I use Formula 560(PVA glue) and Humbrol ClearFix both are good although the formular 560 needs to be left for 24 hours to fully cure. The ClearFix can also be use to make small windows too.

 

[BarryW]

Hi I wish I had come across this site/forum before today as yesterday I made a mess of fitting my windows into my Beaver model with epoxy, most times when I have used it to fit windows I do a decent enough job but yesterday I made a mess of it when I ended up dropping one of the windows and had to try and recover it from the inside and ended up with the epoxy all over the window and I doubt it will come off so its either leave it a mess or have a go at vacuum forming a couple of new ones which I have done in the past just using a hot air gun and a soft brush (I don't have the room for a vacuum forming machine) and the past attempts normally come out ok.
Regards Poppy Ann.

Welcome to SMF Poppy. If it's a small window you might be able to use Kristal Klear to make a replacement. You can fill the space with it and wait for it to dry clear.