discussion FDM PLA 3D printing - with a model making inclination

[Dave Ward]

All confusing to me but interesting . Think you need a very knowledgeable engineering background coupled with a knowledge of computer drawing .
Still maybe I will learn more as this continues.

John,
at the moment, home 3D printing for modelmakers is still in the stage where it needs patience, a lot of common sense, a little knowledge and a whole lot of persistence! It's getting better, but it's still quite 'geeky' - although, I don't think of myself as a geek!
Like Digital Photography - when it started, people said it would never replace film - but now how many have a film camera, let alone use it? That took a few decades, and I can see 3D printing heading along the same path. A pity this didn't come along a few years ago - I reckon I could have set myself up in a niche market!
What the printer is doing at the moment - this is the left sponson for the Mk.VIII International tank

I've found that running a fine wire brush over the finished surface will take away the annoying 'whiskers'
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

I hope to reveal the finished Matilda I tomorrow................... I was looking to see how much the Tamiya/Takom Mk.IV WWI tank was, as I thought a comparison in scale size might look good. Ouch - £60.............Even the poor Emhar Mk IV kit is £25! It looks that a printed model of the Mk.IV might be on the cards.
In case anybody is wondering why I haven't done any aircraft yet, the fact is that the aircraft I'm interested in are already catered for by injection moulded kits! One that caught my eye, though, was a 1/8 Sopwith Camel with the ribs, struts etc all 3D printed - a bit too big, I couldn't get it through the door!
I've learnt my lesson, not to start prints on things that are too big - enthusiasm for 3D printing,overcoming the practicalities!
Dave

 

[Guest]

Yes indeed Dave, my Cannon 5d with its lenses now sits in the cupboard . The progress in this will no doubt be fast in the coming years ,will it out ever strip plastic manufacturing eventually ? I can see most modellers having a 3 D printer in 10 years .
Too late for me I would think .

 

[Dave Ward]

I've been sitting watching & touching my 3D printer as it works. I'm beginning to see the drawbacks of the machine not having a metal frame, I can feel the acrylic frame distorting slightly as it moves, and the vibration makes it rattle & nuts on the Y-axis have to be regularly tightened. There are a fair few braces that can be printed for the frame, that I'm looking at, but you can't get round that the frame is fabricated from 8mm acrylic sheeting, held together by a bunch of M3 nuts & bolts. The Monoprice printer is all metal & you can hardly feel any vibrations as it works. I'll be considering options, and I may get my self a birthday present.
I look at it this way, I could buy 2 X Takom 1/35 AFV kits, or the ICM 1/32 Tarhe for around the same price as a metal framed printer. Yes - I can persuade myself of anything, if I think hard enough about it!:rolling:
Dave

 

[Tim Marlow]

I've been sitting watching & touching my 3D printer as it works. I'm beginning to see the drawbacks of the machine not having a metal frame, I can feel the acrylic frame distorting slightly as it moves, and the vibration makes it rattle & nuts on the Y-axis have to be regularly tightened. There are a fair few braces that can be printed for the frame, that I'm looking at, but you can't get round that the frame is fabricated from 8mm acrylic sheeting, held together by a bunch of M3 nuts & bolts. The Monoprice printer is all metal & you can hardly feel any vibrations as it works. I'll be considering options, and I may get my self a birthday present.
I look at it this way, I could buy 2 X Takom 1/35 AFV kits, or the ICM 1/32 Tarhe for around the same price as a metal framed printer. Yes - I can persuade myself of anything, if I think hard enough about it!:rolling:
Dave

You could also sell on your current one to offset the cost of the new printer Dave.

 

[Guest]

Yes agree with Tim, your only here once and look how much you have achieved in such a short time Dave. Comparing it with the cost of those kits is a good idea, just do it !

 

[Gary MacKenzie]

I've been sitting watching & touching my 3D printer as it works. I'm beginning to see the drawbacks of the machine not having a metal frame, I can feel the acrylic frame distorting slightly as it moves, and the vibration makes it rattle & nuts on the Y-axis have to be regularly tightened. There are a fair few braces that can be printed for the frame, that I'm looking at, but you can't get round that the frame is fabricated from 8mm acrylic sheeting, held together by a bunch of M3 nuts & bolts. The Monoprice printer is all metal & you can hardly feel any vibrations as it works. I'll be considering options, and I may get my self a birthday present.
I look at it this way, I could buy 2 X Takom 1/35 AFV kits, or the ICM 1/32 Tarhe for around the same price as a metal framed printer. Yes - I can persuade myself of anything, if I think hard enough about it!:rolling:
Dave

If you are looking at FDM printers, there are some really good ones out there, and some shockingly poor ones.
Please do not buy the mess that Airfix//Humbrol has rebranded, it is a truly poor printer for the price.

https://www.monoprice.uk/ Quote: Monoprice has decided to stop selling through its own web presence in Europe. We are currently setting up new structures through strategic partnerships across the European region.
They are no longer available on Amazon either.( in any country )

 

[Dave Ward]

I

If you are looking at FDM printers, there are some really good ones out there, and some shockingly poor ones.
Please do not buy the mess that Airfix//Humbrol has rebranded, it is a truly poor printer for the price.

https://www.monoprice.uk/ Quote: Monoprice has decided to stop selling through its own web presence in Europe. We are currently setting up new structures through strategic partnerships across the European region.
They are no longer available on Amazon either.( in any country )

That Airfix/Humbrol printer looks like quite a few branded printers - Like the Easythreed Nano. I had a quick glance at them, but they don't have a heated bed & more importantly no separate part cooling fan - and at £200+ looks vastly overpriced for basically a kids toy, with a small build plate!
I've been looking at the Voxelab Aquila - it's a basic printer, doesn't have wi-fi or auto bed levelling, but I'd never use wi-fi & I don't find bed levelling too much of a chore. Most reviews say it's a good Ender - 3 clone, with good build quality, and a sturdy frame. I don't want to buy a machine with features I don't want, or need. The ability to print ABS or Nylon isn't something I'm interested in, same thing with lights or pretty touch screens. Now just a matter of finding the right price!
Dave

 

[Gary MacKenzie]

I've been looking at the Voxelab Aquila

Amaxon have

Voxelab Aquila X2 @ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Voxelab-Aquila-X2-Removable-8-66x8-66x9-84in/dp/B0953M39YB/​

for £179.99

I like their no-quibble return system with faulty kit.

 

[Neil Merryweather]

I wouldn't dismiss automatic bed levelling, Dave. It's a very useful development, believe me. I agree about wi fi, though, just something else to go wrong:rolling:

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Amaxon have

Voxelab Aquila X2 @ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Voxelab-Aquila-X2-Removable-8-66x8-66x9-84in/dp/B0953M39YB/​

for £179.99

I like their no-quibble return system with faulty kit.

I might consider this myself it looks pretty good and Enders are great little printers, so if it's a decent clone.....

 

[Gary MacKenzie]

The new automatic bed levelling systems take into account a warp in the plate. ( many of the ''gurus'' recommend warming the build plate before doing the levelling, and then always pre-heating the bed before printing anything.)
It maps the surface area and knows that in some areas it has to raise or lower the nozzle to make sure the next layer of filament is on top of the previous one and not in mid-air.
I am in two minds as to whether I go for an FDM first, as I would like to make some functional parts that require strong rigid material, and thinking I will go for Neptune 3, a bit more expensive but Elegoo have some of the best tech support people and forum resources out there.
https://www.3djake.uk/elegoo/neptune-3-pro

 

[Dave Ward]

Thanks fellers,
Bed levelling - I always let the nozzle & build plate heat up before doing this anyway. The Anet has very awkward levelling screws, so the idea of big wheels to turn sounds great. Auto levelling would be nice to have, but if I pay more for that, it's out! If I was pressed for time, fine, but 10 minutes spent bed levelling isn't a factor.
Price wise - I reckon I can get one for <£100 - OK, from China, but that's where they're made anyway!
With the credit card & paying thro' PayPal, I'm probably just as safe as buying from PC World!
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

Been, and done it! I woke up at 2:00am & decided I wouldn't wait!
Ordered a Voxelab Aquila C2 X2 from AliExpress. cost was £78.81, with tax added £94.57 - free shipping!
Had immediate response from seller - shipping today! & downloaded invoice..........
Says delivery by May 6th - just on a week! Will have to wait & see - definitely a birthday present
Went back to bed!
Dave

 

[Guest]

Great news Dave .
Will follow .
Nice input from Gary and Neil.

The new automatic bed levelling systems take into account a warp in the plate. ( many of the ''gurus'' recommend warming the build plate before doing the levelling, and then always pre-heating the bed before printing anything.)
It maps the surface area and knows that in some areas it has to raise or lower the nozzle to make sure the next layer of filament is on top of the previous one and not in mid-air.
I am in two minds as to whether I go for an FDM first, as I would like to make some functional parts that require strong rigid material, and thinking I will go for Neptune 3, a bit more expensive but Elegoo have some of the best tech support people and forum resources out there.
https://www.3djake.uk/elegoo/neptune-3-pro

Liked the fact that you could buy spares as well .Still looks a black art to the uneducated !:surprised:

 

[Dave Ward]

could buy spares as well

Most of these clone printers use readily available bits - the nozzles, hot ends, belts, stepper motors etc are all common consumable parts ( for 3D printers, that is ), and you can pick them up relatively easily & cheaply. The mainboards are the real heart of a printer, and if it dies, then these are expensive!
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

I've turned to functional items - using the Monoprice printer. I'm looking at 'print in place' subjects. This means printed in one operation, with no separate parts needed

The bearing on the right is a 608 - a common ball bearing ( roller-skate bearings! ), that I bought for a failed project. On the left is the printed version. After an initial 'crack' it turned, a bit rough at first, but smoother after a few spins. Hardly a load bearing part, but shows the printer is capable of keeping fine tolerances. I have a roller bearing printing now, and a spherical bearing may be printed, although that will take nearly 8 hours to print.
looking at bearings came about, after looking at gears, and a printed clock. A really ambitious project, but with around 170 parts & metal bushings etc, a bit too much!
Dave

 

[Jim R]

All exciting stuff Dave.

OK, from China, but that's where they're made anyway!
With the credit card & paying thro' PayPal, I'm probably just as safe as buying from PC World!

I'm sure it's fine. I have bought a few things from China with no problems. Somehow I feel that buying from China is fraught with issues and "wrong". But experience has shown that to not be the case. I have also saved a sizeable amount of money.

 

[Dave Ward]

sigh - it looks like my printer purchase from China has vanished - it was supposedly despachted from China, but now has disappeared............... I must admit that the price was a bit too good! Oh well - between PayPal & AliExpress I should eventually get my money back. Odd thing is that the Voxelab Aquila X2 seems to have become very scarce! So it's back to searching the 'net for a good price!
I'm prepared to wait, the Anet is still making its' chuntering noise in the background!
I changed filaments & used a PLA+, which is supposed to be a bit stronger than ordinary PLA, it printed at a slightly higher temperature - but Oh Dear - the print quality was abysmal. warping & stringing - I've been altering the settings in the slicer, and I think its' improved a lot. I wish I'd stuck to normal PLA! Trying new things doesn't always work. Not a very successful week or so!
Dave

 

[Gary MacKenzie]

. I must admit that the price was a bit too good!
Dave

I didn't say anything, but that was way too cheap to be anything other than a 2nd hand unit or fake ...... something that WISH and some people on AliExpress seem very good at doing.
As far as I can tell the Aquila C2 was discontinued ages ago , it didn't sell well, it was a cut down Aquila X2

A review I found had the following "The C2 is a lesser machine. It has lower grade stepper drivers, which are noisy. No one recommends this machine. No user base, no support. Don't buy."
The Aquila is the X2 minus a $2.00 filament out sensor.
If any, go with the regular Aquila. If you get one with an H32 board (there's a sticker on the machine itself), pack it back up and send it back. That chip is a cheap Chinese clone that has problems, and (currently) has no support.