All good stuff thanks for sharing all your highs and lows ,please keep it coming. Dave
FDM PLA 3D printing - with a model making inclination
- Thread starter Dave Ward
- Start date
I can still print, but painting with only my left hand isn't that succesfull!
This is a PACV, blown up to 1/72 from 1/100
No interior, solid windows - It needs more careful painting - which I can't do with my left hand! The upcoming 1/35 model from Gecko will be quite a beast. I couldn't blow this up to that size - too big, and the detail would become too heavy
Dave
This is a PACV, blown up to 1/72 from 1/100
No interior, solid windows - It needs more careful painting - which I can't do with my left hand! The upcoming 1/35 model from Gecko will be quite a beast. I couldn't blow this up to that size - too big, and the detail would become too heavy
Dave
Still coping one handed - I can still print, though
I printed out an aircraft assembly jig..................
I attempted to print the M6 bolts & nuts, but that was a failure the bolts either didn't print, or sheared straight off - I replaced them with nylon fixings, actually bolts that fix on car number plates. Fully adjustable from 1/144 up to a 1/32 single engined plane, I reckon
Dave
I printed out an aircraft assembly jig..................
I attempted to print the M6 bolts & nuts, but that was a failure the bolts either didn't print, or sheared straight off - I replaced them with nylon fixings, actually bolts that fix on car number plates. Fully adjustable from 1/144 up to a 1/32 single engined plane, I reckonDave
Looks good Dave.
I have revisited a model I printed earlier this year - l'Orient the flagship of the French fleet at the Battle of the Nile 1798 ( Also known as Aboukir Bay ). She caught fire and was destroyed n a huge explosion.
The model is blown up from 1/700 to 1/350 - it's printed in my customary Geeetech filament - black, cos' I cant get silver! Layer height of 0.15mm - it took nearly 18 hours to print. I used organic support, which worked well for this type of model
Still on the PEI build plate - this has a great advantage, it doesn't need glue to grip the print & simply flexing the plate releases it
I also printed out the masts, which I hadn't tried before
The black filament doesn't lend itself to photograhy
I printed a new to me, model - HMS Indefatigable, a heavy frigate, commanded by Sir Edwatd Pellew, one of the naval heroes that Hornblower & Jack Aubrey were based on!
A bit smaller, this took 12 hoirs to print.
After the print, all the supports are carefully removed, very easily in this case
There are masts for this, but they have billowing sails attached, which when printed would be visibly overscale, so a little poking around will be needed.
As usual, when blown up, some of the details look poor, but in real vision they're fine.
Dave
The model is blown up from 1/700 to 1/350 - it's printed in my customary Geeetech filament - black, cos' I cant get silver! Layer height of 0.15mm - it took nearly 18 hours to print. I used organic support, which worked well for this type of model
Still on the PEI build plate - this has a great advantage, it doesn't need glue to grip the print & simply flexing the plate releases it
I also printed out the masts, which I hadn't tried before
The black filament doesn't lend itself to photograhy
I printed a new to me, model - HMS Indefatigable, a heavy frigate, commanded by Sir Edwatd Pellew, one of the naval heroes that Hornblower & Jack Aubrey were based on!
A bit smaller, this took 12 hoirs to print.
After the print, all the supports are carefully removed, very easily in this case
There are masts for this, but they have billowing sails attached, which when printed would be visibly overscale, so a little poking around will be needed.
As usual, when blown up, some of the details look poor, but in real vision they're fine.
Dave
I'm trying to see how far I can take the FDM printing. I'm not one for wargaming figures, but I picked two to experiment - both around 35mm high, printed at a layer height of 0.1mm - each took over two hours to print
Troll, with supports still attached
The other is a Knightm with a slightly overscale sword
Well, I suppose, painted up, they'd be OK for wargaming! The only way I can improve on this is by changing the print nozzle size from 0.4mm to 0.3mm dia. This involves all sorts of things, like flow rates, which I don't want to get into!
Dave
Troll, with supports still attachedThe other is a Knightm with a slightly overscale sword
Well, I suppose, painted up, they'd be OK for wargaming! The only way I can improve on this is by changing the print nozzle size from 0.4mm to 0.3mm dia. This involves all sorts of things, like flow rates, which I don't want to get into!
Dave
Miserable few days here, hardly daylight & cold, but only frosts . no snow........
My hand is slowly getting better, but I'm not giving it a chance to flare up again by using it too aoon.
As further to my pushing the printer, I found this model of a 1/48 Morane Saulnier 'L'. I was extremely doubtful of being successful on this print, it seemed too fragile, and too tall to survive. I sliced this at 0.15mm layer height. The slicer predicted a time of 12 hours, so I left this to print overnight.................
More than pleased to see that it had printed - just under 13 hours. Still on the build plate. Since using the spring steel PEI plate I have stopped using glue to assist on the print sticking - To remove the print, I just have to take the plate & flex it gently, and the print comes off cleanly.........
It looks like a snakes' wedding! It took me about an hour to remove the supports - there are still a few nubs to remove, but not bad for one handed
It's pretty fragile - those struts are pretty thin, and I think rigging will add some strength!
Separate bits printing out now, at a 0.10mm layer height, engine, cowling, propellor & a seat - although I can't see how that fits.
I was originally going to print this at 1/32, but it's too big to fit on my build plate, and cutting it into pieces would be problematical!, not the cutting, but joining it together afterwards. Eduard did a model of this in 1995, but it seems to be long out of production.
Dave
My hand is slowly getting better, but I'm not giving it a chance to flare up again by using it too aoon.
As further to my pushing the printer, I found this model of a 1/48 Morane Saulnier 'L'. I was extremely doubtful of being successful on this print, it seemed too fragile, and too tall to survive. I sliced this at 0.15mm layer height. The slicer predicted a time of 12 hours, so I left this to print overnight.................
More than pleased to see that it had printed - just under 13 hours. Still on the build plate. Since using the spring steel PEI plate I have stopped using glue to assist on the print sticking - To remove the print, I just have to take the plate & flex it gently, and the print comes off cleanly.........
It looks like a snakes' wedding! It took me about an hour to remove the supports - there are still a few nubs to remove, but not bad for one handed
It's pretty fragile - those struts are pretty thin, and I think rigging will add some strength!
Separate bits printing out now, at a 0.10mm layer height, engine, cowling, propellor & a seat - although I can't see how that fits.
I was originally going to print this at 1/32, but it's too big to fit on my build plate, and cutting it into pieces would be problematical!, not the cutting, but joining it together afterwards. Eduard did a model of this in 1995, but it seems to be long out of production.
Dave
I found a 1/72 model of the Curtiss P1 Hawk............................
Amazingly, despite over 90 being made, it has only seemingly been covered by short run/resin/vacform so I'm going to give this a go in 1/48. Three large parts are a construction jig - PLA is rather heavier than polystyrene ( it sinks ), so supporting that top wing may be tricky. Anyone remember Strutz? - extruded brass alloy airofoil strut material - would be ideal for this
Dave
Amazingly, despite over 90 being made, it has only seemingly been covered by short run/resin/vacform so I'm going to give this a go in 1/48. Three large parts are a construction jig - PLA is rather heavier than polystyrene ( it sinks ), so supporting that top wing may be tricky. Anyone remember Strutz? - extruded brass alloy airofoil strut material - would be ideal for this
Dave
Dragons' Teeth - the release by Gecko of a set of Dragons teeth made me look for a set of files to 3D print - these weren't free, they cost me 0.93 Euros! - ideal for FDM printing - a cast concrete item...............
These were said to be 1/16, and I scaled them to 1/35, but can be scaled to any size.
I was doubtful about the tooth on the right - but I found it was an Italian version used on the Alpine Wall
Also included in the tooth pack was one of these
I've had several attempts tp print this, but all failed
Couldn't resist putting the 3D printed Churchill in for scale.........................
This also illustrates on of the disadvantages of FDM printing - the four teeth took about 1/2 hour each to print - a SLA printer could print as many as could fit on the build plate, in the same time as the FDM makes one!
Dave
These were said to be 1/16, and I scaled them to 1/35, but can be scaled to any size.
I was doubtful about the tooth on the right - but I found it was an Italian version used on the Alpine Wall
Also included in the tooth pack was one of these
I've had several attempts tp print this, but all failed
Couldn't resist putting the 3D printed Churchill in for scale.........................
This also illustrates on of the disadvantages of FDM printing - the four teeth took about 1/2 hour each to print - a SLA printer could print as many as could fit on the build plate, in the same time as the FDM makes one!
Dave
Westland P.12 'Wendover' A Lysander modified to take a Delanne style tail/rear wing. It was designed to carry a power operated 4 gun turret for ground attack. I found a 1/100 model...........
The plane actually flew ( quite well apparantly ), but only ever carried a dummy turret.
I considered trying this in 1/48, using an Eduard model for the fuselage, wings etc BUT when I saw how much this model now goes for, I dialled back a bit to 1/72 and found an Ebay sale of an unboxed Airfix model, without decals or instructions, ideal for a lot of surgery and for a reasonable price - so I printed out the tail in 1/72
Lucky the turret was a dummy, as I don't think I have anything in the spares box. The 1/100 model is a bit rough, but with a bit of tlc, the 1/72 blown up tail will be grafted onto the chopped Airfix fuselage ( with a bit of filler, I expect )
Almost back to the bench, but I have quite a few other things to catch up on, things that I couldn't do with only one hand!
Dave
The plane actually flew ( quite well apparantly ), but only ever carried a dummy turret.I considered trying this in 1/48, using an Eduard model for the fuselage, wings etc BUT when I saw how much this model now goes for, I dialled back a bit to 1/72 and found an Ebay sale of an unboxed Airfix model, without decals or instructions, ideal for a lot of surgery and for a reasonable price - so I printed out the tail in 1/72
Lucky the turret was a dummy, as I don't think I have anything in the spares box. The 1/100 model is a bit rough, but with a bit of tlc, the 1/72 blown up tail will be grafted onto the chopped Airfix fuselage ( with a bit of filler, I expect )
Almost back to the bench, but I have quite a few other things to catch up on, things that I couldn't do with only one hand!
Dave
The quality of prints had declined on my Sunlu printer, so I've given it an overhaul - new drive belts, new nozzle & I've replaced some wheels on the X & Y axis & a general clean up ( where does all this dust come from? ). Levelled the bed, spending quite a while on this - much longer than normal. I decided to do a 'torture test' print to really push the printer.
After 17 hours 50 minutes, PLA, 0.2mm layer height 220C nozzle, 55C build plate - raft only, no supports:
Difficult to describe, but it's a series of framework cubes, standing on one corner & rotated! It's 120mm high & 120 wide. It would have looked much better if I had some fancy filament, but black is what I have! I fully expected to find a ball of plastic wool this morning, after an all night print run, but more than pleased to see it coped.
Sadly, my small Kingroon printer is proving to be rather unreliable, it seems to clog very easily. I suspect it's something to do with the heating element in the hot end. It also shuts down for no apparant reason, although you can resume a print when you power it up again - I've ordered some bits for a new all metal hot end, thermistor etc, I hope that these will cure it......................
Dave
After 17 hours 50 minutes, PLA, 0.2mm layer height 220C nozzle, 55C build plate - raft only, no supports:
Difficult to describe, but it's a series of framework cubes, standing on one corner & rotated! It's 120mm high & 120 wide. It would have looked much better if I had some fancy filament, but black is what I have! I fully expected to find a ball of plastic wool this morning, after an all night print run, but more than pleased to see it coped.Sadly, my small Kingroon printer is proving to be rather unreliable, it seems to clog very easily. I suspect it's something to do with the heating element in the hot end. It also shuts down for no apparant reason, although you can resume a print when you power it up again - I've ordered some bits for a new all metal hot end, thermistor etc, I hope that these will cure it......................
Dave
Hi Dave
Sorry missed a load of updates Dave. You've clearly been busy and have printed some interesting stuff there.
I'd not heard of the Wendover.... An odd looking aircraft.
ATB.
Andrew
Sorry missed a load of updates Dave. You've clearly been busy and have printed some interesting stuff there.
I'd not heard of the Wendover.... An odd looking aircraft.
ATB.
Andrew
That "torture test" print looks complex but certainly shows what can be achieved. Hope your hand is now much better.
I found a basic early pilot, so printed some out in 1/72 & 1/48
Supports come off easily....................
I decided that I would try a wet palette for the first time - I found this on Thingiverse
You can print out 2/4/8 windows for the frame.
Adding kitchen towel & parchment paper over the top
The cover is a pretty snug fit - it shows that the printer can hold reasobably tight tolerances
Now, all I need is an opportunity to use it!
Dave
Supports come off easily....................
I decided that I would try a wet palette for the first time - I found this on Thingiverse
You can print out 2/4/8 windows for the frame.
Adding kitchen towel & parchment paper over the top
The cover is a pretty snug fit - it shows that the printer can hold reasobably tight tolerances
Now, all I need is an opportunity to use it!
Dave
Experiments: I'm trying to print mesh - like radiator guards etc, and so far the results are promising!
The micro SD card was the only thing I could find that most people would be famliar with!
These are pretty thin, <0.8mm, and I have found that the print begins to warp, and the mesh becomes distorted at the edges, due to it lifting. I can increase the brim size, but it may be that glue is needed.
The bottom picture is as small as I can get the mesh - each strand is 0.4mm wide - the printer nozzle is 0.4mm dia, which is the limiting factor. I have ordered some 0.2mm & 0.3mm nozzles to see how they work. At the moment, I'm printing some honeycomb mesh, taking a long time, as there aren't any straight lines!
In case you're wondering where this is going, I'm trying to see if it's possible to print ratline rigging for sailing ships..................
I don't know is this possible with resin printing?
Dave
The micro SD card was the only thing I could find that most people would be famliar with!
These are pretty thin, <0.8mm, and I have found that the print begins to warp, and the mesh becomes distorted at the edges, due to it lifting. I can increase the brim size, but it may be that glue is needed.
The bottom picture is as small as I can get the mesh - each strand is 0.4mm wide - the printer nozzle is 0.4mm dia, which is the limiting factor. I have ordered some 0.2mm & 0.3mm nozzles to see how they work. At the moment, I'm printing some honeycomb mesh, taking a long time, as there aren't any straight lines!
In case you're wondering where this is going, I'm trying to see if it's possible to print ratline rigging for sailing ships..................
I don't know is this possible with resin printing?
Dave
After 2 hours - honeycomb mesh....................
No idea of why there are errors - it could be that there was a bit of dirt/dust on the build plate, although it seemed to be clean. This was just a test, to see how the printer handled this, honeyconb mesh is very much a modern thing.
Dave
No idea of why there are errors - it could be that there was a bit of dirt/dust on the build plate, although it seemed to be clean. This was just a test, to see how the printer handled this, honeyconb mesh is very much a modern thing.
Dave
Been under the weather. haven't had any benchtime. I did find this
PT-76 Swimming - blown up from either 1/76 or 1/72 to 1/35 took the best part of 10 hours to print the base/hull & another 3 hours to print the turret.
Dave
PT-76 Swimming - blown up from either 1/76 or 1/72 to 1/35 took the best part of 10 hours to print the base/hull & another 3 hours to print the turret.
Dave
A bad start to the year - I've been laid up for the last few weeks & have no inclination to return to the bench at the moment - my laptop has had more use in the last month, than in the previous 4 years I've had it.
Still finding subjects for the 3D printer, and I found an interesting subject - it has taken me 3 attempts to print it - I had to alter the orientation, and tweak a few settings - and this is the result - 24 hours and 30 minutes
Looks like nothing, but I'll be stripping the supports off - then like a butterfly emerging from its' chrysalis everything will be revealed!
Any guesses on what it may be?...........................
Dave
Still finding subjects for the 3D printer, and I found an interesting subject - it has taken me 3 attempts to print it - I had to alter the orientation, and tweak a few settings - and this is the result - 24 hours and 30 minutes
Looks like nothing, but I'll be stripping the supports off - then like a butterfly emerging from its' chrysalis everything will be revealed!
Any guesses on what it may be?...........................
Dave
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