Top work Steve. This is really nice.
Hobby Boss - P-47D - 1/48 (Steven)
- Thread starter Steven000
- Start date
Steve, really looking good.
Looking good
Always liked hobbyboss....seemed good value but never realised they did 1/48
Always liked hobbyboss....seemed good value but never realised they did 1/48
Looking as if it's turning out superbly mate!
Steve
Steve
Thanks guys, yes Paul they make 1/48 models as well, I once made their Me262 which was a lovely kit.
I started on the wings, no separate parts for the flaps or ailerons. It would take some extra time to cut them out and adapt the parts, so for this build I think I’m keeping them as they are… I did use a razor saw to open up the side-lines,
And used a scraper to deepen the recessed hinge-lines, so they look a bit more like seperate parts…
The model will have the gear ‘up’, so I had to adapt the gear parts a bit to close up the underside of the wing.
It was a bit fiddly but I managed to place the panels into the wing. I used some pieces of stretched sprue to increase the glue-contact-area.
Afterwards I cleaned the new panel-lines created by the gear-panels with a scriber.
One side of the wing didn’t seem to close properly, so I cut this pin a bit shorter.
Next I added the wings to the fuselage, no issues and it starts to look like a plane now…
Thanks for reading & have a nice day,
Steven
I started on the wings, no separate parts for the flaps or ailerons. It would take some extra time to cut them out and adapt the parts, so for this build I think I’m keeping them as they are… I did use a razor saw to open up the side-lines,
And used a scraper to deepen the recessed hinge-lines, so they look a bit more like seperate parts…
The model will have the gear ‘up’, so I had to adapt the gear parts a bit to close up the underside of the wing.
It was a bit fiddly but I managed to place the panels into the wing. I used some pieces of stretched sprue to increase the glue-contact-area.
Afterwards I cleaned the new panel-lines created by the gear-panels with a scriber.
One side of the wing didn’t seem to close properly, so I cut this pin a bit shorter.
Next I added the wings to the fuselage, no issues and it starts to look like a plane now…
Thanks for reading & have a nice day,
Steven
Nice and clean work Steve, looking good
Good work Steve. It's going to be a beauty.
HI Steven some wonderfull work on this thunderbolt how you painted that i/p was beyond me but it lookes very real an an excellent idea on the gun site an the scibein on the wings is brilliant looks like you have a lot more steady a hand than me VERY WELL DONE SIR this plane will look good in the flyin mode but how will you get around the prop are you just leavein the prop as it is or goin to fit a bit of round glass to to look like the prop is spinning ?
an you sir have a nice day
ATB
Chrisb
an you sir have a nice day
ATB
Chrisb
Thanks Chris! Well I'm still thinking about it, I would like to try making it spin with a transparant disk, but not sure if it will turn out realistic. I will try tough, first I'll have to add the engine. Cheers, Steven
Not much bench-time today, Used the razor saw on the rudder trim tab, deepend the elevator hinge-line…
Also glued the horizontal stabilizers in place…
Next is the engine, but that needs a bit of an overhaul, so will take some extra time...
Thanks & Cheers
Steven
Also glued the horizontal stabilizers in place…
Next is the engine, but that needs a bit of an overhaul, so will take some extra time...
Thanks & Cheers
Steven
YES Lookin good Steven what you are doin by scribein out the flaps an rudder an such has made a massiave difference to if you had just left it how the kit was made i would love to do this on my hornet but im to shakey so it will have to go an its great to see you doin your build as ive done a bit on my hornet but with all these lights wires got to be connected up an eletric plugs fitted its just as hard as my tomcat was an takin a lot of time but you sir are comin on in your model in leaps an bounds wish i could as im missin fittin pics while im now gettin the hang of this new forum
keep up the good work but if you are not sure about makin that prop lookin like its spinning in my opinion ask ron 570 as he has done that on his models to good effect
chrisb
keep up the good work but if you are not sure about makin that prop lookin like its spinning in my opinion ask ron 570 as he has done that on his models to good effect
chrisb
Steven,
Lovely detailing it makes all the difference.
Lovely detailing it makes all the difference.
Thanks guys, a bit of an update…
So far the kit is pretty nice, but the one thing I don’t like about it is the engine cowling…
This part is molded in 1 piece, so painting the engine is harder than it should be, but also in order to release the part from the mold there’s an additional inside wall that prevents any pistonheads from being shown.
It might be acceptable, but I know it will keep bothering me when looking at the model, so I decided to take out the dremel for a spin…
There was quite a bit of plastic that needed to be removed.
In the end I was left with a solid ‘wall’ still connected to the front,
This was carefully removed with a round dremel bit, not to mess up the contour panels,
After the dremel I used a sanding stick to clean up the fuzzy toolmarks. It was a bit of extra work but I think it will be worth it in the end…
I’ve been working on a 3D model of the engine in 1/48 scale for some time now, but that will be for next time as I still need to clean it up when I get the time…
Have a nice day & Cheers
Steven
So far the kit is pretty nice, but the one thing I don’t like about it is the engine cowling…
This part is molded in 1 piece, so painting the engine is harder than it should be, but also in order to release the part from the mold there’s an additional inside wall that prevents any pistonheads from being shown.
It might be acceptable, but I know it will keep bothering me when looking at the model, so I decided to take out the dremel for a spin…
There was quite a bit of plastic that needed to be removed.
In the end I was left with a solid ‘wall’ still connected to the front,
This was carefully removed with a round dremel bit, not to mess up the contour panels,
After the dremel I used a sanding stick to clean up the fuzzy toolmarks. It was a bit of extra work but I think it will be worth it in the end…
I’ve been working on a 3D model of the engine in 1/48 scale for some time now, but that will be for next time as I still need to clean it up when I get the time…
Have a nice day & Cheers
Steven
Impressive work Steven
Thanks for the comments guys!
So after turning the kit-engine to scrap I had to find a new ‘Pratt & Whitney R-2800 Double Wasp’ engine…
Since I have a 3d printer I decided to make the 3d model myself. To make it accurate I needed a technical drawing of the real thing, but to my surprise that was very hard to find… Eventually I measured the engine from a Tamiya kit (61090) and used a lot of reference pictures of the real engine to make up the 3d model. That took ofcourse a lot more time than I anticipated…
When the 3d model was finally done I could print it, I fitted 2 complete engines (middle), 3 spinners (left) and 2 oil-cooler inlets (right)…
The support-structure was removed, next I cleaned the parts with IPA and UV cured them…
I must admit it’s quite satisfying to look at parts you designed yourself, I’m glad I’m finally using the printer for what I originally intended…
Left: Some smaller support structures needed to be removed. Right: The inlet for the oil-cooler didn’t fit properly, this was a tricky part to design because of the curved engine cowling…
So I had to adjust the part a bit with a file, you can see the adjustment when put next to each other (right).
The engine can still be improved with cables, for this I used the copper from an old LAN-cable…
I’ve seen some people here do the same thing and always loved the finished results,
I used superglue to attach the wire, then tried to cut and bend it into shape, which took a while as they broke off easily…
I cut a 2mm steel rod for the shaft,
I made the spinner in 2 parts so I can add a transparent disk in between, the idea is that the spinner looks like it’s rotating…
So after turning the kit-engine to scrap I had to find a new ‘Pratt & Whitney R-2800 Double Wasp’ engine…
Since I have a 3d printer I decided to make the 3d model myself. To make it accurate I needed a technical drawing of the real thing, but to my surprise that was very hard to find… Eventually I measured the engine from a Tamiya kit (61090) and used a lot of reference pictures of the real engine to make up the 3d model. That took ofcourse a lot more time than I anticipated…
When the 3d model was finally done I could print it, I fitted 2 complete engines (middle), 3 spinners (left) and 2 oil-cooler inlets (right)…
The support-structure was removed, next I cleaned the parts with IPA and UV cured them…
I must admit it’s quite satisfying to look at parts you designed yourself, I’m glad I’m finally using the printer for what I originally intended…
Left: Some smaller support structures needed to be removed. Right: The inlet for the oil-cooler didn’t fit properly, this was a tricky part to design because of the curved engine cowling…
So I had to adjust the part a bit with a file, you can see the adjustment when put next to each other (right).
The engine can still be improved with cables, for this I used the copper from an old LAN-cable…
I’ve seen some people here do the same thing and always loved the finished results,
I used superglue to attach the wire, then tried to cut and bend it into shape, which took a while as they broke off easily…
I cut a 2mm steel rod for the shaft,
I made the spinner in 2 parts so I can add a transparent disk in between, the idea is that the spinner looks like it’s rotating…
Parts on sticks, ready for the airbrush…
Vallejo ‘black’ primer was used, the spinners got ‘black gloss’ primer and a coat of Vallejo ‘Chrome’ paint…
Yesterday evening I handpainted the details, at the moment I only added the base color. Washes on 3d parts can reveal layer-lines, so I’ll have to try out a bit…
That’s all for the moment, have a nice day & Cheers
Steven
Vallejo ‘black’ primer was used, the spinners got ‘black gloss’ primer and a coat of Vallejo ‘Chrome’ paint…
Yesterday evening I handpainted the details, at the moment I only added the base color. Washes on 3d parts can reveal layer-lines, so I’ll have to try out a bit…
That’s all for the moment, have a nice day & Cheers
Steven
Amazing work there Steven. You could start a P&W production line.
I am stuck for words Steve. Modeling at it's finest.
Thanks for the kind words guys! 
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