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This looks like my hair on a good day Steve. :upside::upside::upside:
Items you have bought and at the time thought they were a good idea - but never used.
I had to think about this for a while as most items that I buy are very useful and get used. I did remember that I had few that were pretty much a waste of time and money though...….
I bought this 3 or more years ago and I never used it. Lent it to a friend and he did. Too many RPMs for plastic, 5,000 - 20,000 with no chance for a result. Aldi, for €29,95, so I can't complain too much….I grabbed these to use for working with plastic sheet and scratch building projects,
I haven't used them fully yet, but they work well and for €2,99 from Lidl, I'll hang on to them for later....Next is something I whipped up at work after seeing the price of indy track link assembly tools,
It's a bit rough, but it does work good. The cost was zip, null, nada and I never used it as it's worthless to assemble Friul metal tracks….
The last one was a total waste of a bundle of cash and using it to remove tiny pieces from the sprue's was a huge disaster on all counts and fingers,
And it didn' come with a box of band aids for the price either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I do have other things that I haven't used yet, but know I will down the line. They weren't expensive or a waste of money really……………….
Bleib Gesund
Allen
I bought this 3 or more years ago and I never used it. Lent it to a friend and he did. Too many RPMs for plastic, 5,000 - 20,000 with no chance for a result. Aldi, for €29,95, so I can't complain too much….I grabbed these to use for working with plastic sheet and scratch building projects,
I haven't used them fully yet, but they work well and for €2,99 from Lidl, I'll hang on to them for later....Next is something I whipped up at work after seeing the price of indy track link assembly tools,
It's a bit rough, but it does work good. The cost was zip, null, nada and I never used it as it's worthless to assemble Friul metal tracks….
The last one was a total waste of a bundle of cash and using it to remove tiny pieces from the sprue's was a huge disaster on all counts and fingers,
And it didn' come with a box of band aids for the price either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I do have other things that I haven't used yet, but know I will down the line. They weren't expensive or a waste of money really……………….
Bleib Gesund
Allen
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Don't think so Dave, when Mike and I were talking it was just about tools, though that would make a great thread in its self. Why don't you start one please, that could run for years:smiling3:
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I wondered the same as Dave. Surely the stash counts?
The only things I bought that I very rarely use are a load of enamels and humbrol acrylics I bought when I started again and had never heard of vallejo!
The only things I bought that I very rarely use are a load of enamels and humbrol acrylics I bought when I started again and had never heard of vallejo!
G
Dude I bought the Dremel one , apart from looking at it that's as far as I have got, can't fit a very small drill in the chuck, so it will sit under the bench . That disc cutter is a great tool, put in on Evil bay , bet you get your money back .
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Chris its was a conversation about tools mainly, think paints and the like could well be ok, its only a bit of fun.
G
Sure, I meant it in jest!
lol....i got back into this malarky in 2006........still got unbuilt kits i bought then cos they seemed a good idea at the time
G
I wouldn’t consider those a waste of money, as they’re good paints. Now if you had a bunch of LifeColor bottles, that would have been a purchase you’d not use a lot. I speak from experience.
G
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Keep it that way 
LifeColor has a wide range of paints matched to real-world colours, and apparently many people swear by them. However, when I tried a number of different ones a few years ago (because I wanted those real-world colour matches), I mostly swore at them. You shouldn’t need five coats to paint light blue Airfix plastic, sand brown, for just one example.
LifeColor has a wide range of paints matched to real-world colours, and apparently many people swear by them. However, when I tried a number of different ones a few years ago (because I wanted those real-world colour matches), I mostly swore at them. You shouldn’t need five coats to paint light blue Airfix plastic, sand brown, for just one example.
I use one of these all the time - been using since late 1980's and must have cut hundreds if not thousands or circles since
This cuts spirals, not circles. ’Nuff said.
wheel rims made the other day
the trick is not to use it as sold - turn the blade around or spin it the other way so that you scribe with the back edge of the blade rather than trying to cut with the blade
this stops it digging in and wandering
the old 1980's versions were rock solid and just worked - unfortunately I destroyed mine in a glue accident a couple of years ago
current ones are not as well made as they used to be and benefit from a little reinforcing - glue a strip of plastic card on the side of each yellow beam
it needs to be just thick enough to fill the gap between the black slider and the yellow beam
One thing I bought and never use is a Flex-i-file - u shaped rod with thin bits of sandpaper between the ends
I can do a much better job with a Wilko's emery board
Allen - they are actually for etching glassI grabbed these to use for working with plastic sheet and scratch building projects,
I haven't used them fully yet, but they work well and for €2,99 from Lidl, I'll hang on to t
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I might have to try that one of these days, then
After finding that Olfa cutter a failure I bought more elaborate affair that does work, though.I have occasionally thought of buying one, but then reconsidered and figured, “what does it do that regular sandpaper doesn’t?”
Hi, I actually found these items quite usefull...
Initially I found this cutter not as acurate as I wanted for thick single cuts because of how the blade slices but it has helped with my latest 1/700 repetetive cuts of harbour supports. Perhaps I'm lucky as the cutting matt for mine sits slightly proud of the steel frame so the alighning plates function.
No problem with this with no paint creeping. I either cover the other appertures with masking tape or cut the individual circles out to make single templates for easier handling. Used as a scribing template for smaller circles as well.
The Olafs been handy with large circles used the way Simon described if you don't expect immediate cuts.
Now these are items that I have used once or not used in a while and perhaps not at all...
I still use a tooth pick or a brush to pick up paint or stir...
Specially bought to cut rigging for my USS Constipation and has since been put aside like the Frigate.
Used only once to melt some polysterene and battery powering my little Corsair but never used as intended for since I don't solder often.
Doesn't work as well on plastic as it does cleaning metal but now since I'm starting on PE for my ships perhaps I might see use for it to clean and roughen the PE to take paint.
Cheers,
Richard
Initially I found this cutter not as acurate as I wanted for thick single cuts because of how the blade slices but it has helped with my latest 1/700 repetetive cuts of harbour supports. Perhaps I'm lucky as the cutting matt for mine sits slightly proud of the steel frame so the alighning plates function.
No problem with this with no paint creeping. I either cover the other appertures with masking tape or cut the individual circles out to make single templates for easier handling. Used as a scribing template for smaller circles as well.
The Olafs been handy with large circles used the way Simon described if you don't expect immediate cuts.
Now these are items that I have used once or not used in a while and perhaps not at all...
I still use a tooth pick or a brush to pick up paint or stir...
Specially bought to cut rigging for my USS Constipation and has since been put aside like the Frigate.
Used only once to melt some polysterene and battery powering my little Corsair but never used as intended for since I don't solder often.
Doesn't work as well on plastic as it does cleaning metal but now since I'm starting on PE for my ships perhaps I might see use for it to clean and roughen the PE to take paint.
Cheers,
Richard
Blimey,i`ve been beaten to it........... TWICE!!!:dizzy:
Serves me right for not reading the contents more closely,but,a couple of years ago i was after a way to make Rivets for 1/35th AFVs.Glanced at this ,picked it up,and bought it in one lightening fast transaction,happy i was.......until i got home and looked studiously at my new purchase:thumb2:.......
...... and years later .........
....... completely untouched!!!
Cheers,
Andy
Serves me right for not reading the contents more closely,but,a couple of years ago i was after a way to make Rivets for 1/35th AFVs.Glanced at this ,picked it up,and bought it in one lightening fast transaction,happy i was.......until i got home and looked studiously at my new purchase:thumb2:.......
...... and years later .........
....... completely untouched!!!
Cheers,
Andy
G
So that was you that bought the grinder of ebay......... :tears-of-joy:
G
I used mine on the car when I changed the front brake regulator/sensor thingy that lights up on the dash. It had rusted into place, being plastic, yes plastic and all, had to drill it out and then used the Dremel to clean out the bore. The instructions stated that you undo the bolt securing it, then using a screw driver (flat blade) you gently rock it and it slides out.
One tine of wd40, drive the worst out with a drift bar, drill out the rest and then clean up - the guy on you tube did it in 20 minutes, mine took 9 hours over two days.....
G
Richard, that's interesting about the cutting mat sitting proud, given me a though I could slip some plastic card under mine to give that lift. I found that when cutting thicker plastic strip a series of slight downward presses
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