discussion Outdoor Model Mancave

[Guest]

But i think i could get the wood direct from a sawmill (we have a few up here) for about £1000.

Crikey. Just the OSB for mine is touching half of that amount. Then there's the actual timber for the frame, the cladding, insulation, plasterboard, breather membrane, vapour barrier, EPDM roof, doors, windows. More garden room than shed though I guess.

 

[AlanG]

would love to see a build log if/when it goes ahead.

Might just do that. I'll stick it in the 'other hobbies & interests' section

 

[AlanG]

Not using OSB for the side Andy. Going to be sawn 19mm planks which are then routered to make tongue & groove. Makes nice sealed sides.

 

[Guest]

Sounds good Alan. I don't think my (bought) T&G shed was put together that well. I sit there when it's raining watching the water run down the inside of the walls from the gaps between the boards. Quite unnerving given what's in there!

 

[AlanG]

Was planning to put either sealant or wood glue in-between the T&G. Hoping that would help keep the rain out especially in windy conditions.

 

[Guest]

A better bet would be ship lap Alan


This gives a better protection against the weather. The idea of not gluing is to allow the wood to expand and contract. If you were to use a slightly damp timber and then glue or seal when it dried out it could split.


As to the concrete base a dpm barrier on concrete would work , but eventually the timber will rot.


I'd suggest lifting the wood off the concrete and placing blue engineering bricks with the dpm strip on top of that, with the timber on top. The bricks would be the outline for the timbers and could be cemented into place.
All great fun, If I lived nearer I'd come and give you a hand.:smiling3:

Short of digging foundations and having a block wall like in the photo above the way mentioned would be the quickest

 

[AlanG]

Shiplap would send the costs rocketing though. I know it would be better but cost is a factor and i cannot get that from the sawmill. Although i suppose i could find out how to router it myself.

 

[Guest]

Shiplap would send the costs rocketing though. I know it would be better but cost is a factor and i cannot get that from the sawmill. Although i suppose i could find out how to router it myself.

Well cancel the ship lap, you'd need a spindle moulder to do the job properly, and plenty of track to keep the board flat and tight to the cutterblock. If you can by in the T&G use that. If its fitted well and nice and tight you should have no problems, but I'd not recommend gluing as I said before.

 

[AlanG]

Thanks for the advice John. Really appreciate it. Building the frame is the easy part. The sides are the hardest to figure out. So anyone with advice on better materials/techniques is most welcome.

 

[Guest]

Your more than welcome Alan, If you have any plans , just rough would do Id like to see the roof over hang and style you could pm me

 

[AlanG]

Check out a build by colinfurze on YT. He built one just like i want to.....without the tiles on top. He also built an underground bunker too.

 

[Guest]

Ha he lives in Stamford, less than a mile from our house.
Will do Alan

 

[Nicko]

I built a large workshop at the bottom of my garden about five years ago, mainly for working on my bikes but it's also my airbrushing space now too. It was basically planned on scraps of paper and is an irregular shape because my garden tapers.

I built the frame from 4x2, wrapped it in Tyvec stapled straight to the frame. Nailed 2x1 to each upright and then clad in feather edge boards. Inside is insulated with 50mm Celotex throughout and lined with 9mm osb. Roof timbers were 6x2 with 18mm osb on top and two layers of heavy duty felt insulated and lined as per the walls. I bought a cheap secondhand upvc window locally off ebay which has proved a good move. The doors and some benches I made myself after a bit of googling.

In all its 16ft deep, 16ft wide at the front and 10ft wide at the rear. Once I'd done all the electrics and painting it had cost several thousand and with all the digging out I had to do at the start, it took two years, but all the effort and expense has been well worth it.

I dare say a real builder/joiner/carpenter would have done it in a way that was much more economical materials-wise, but I erred somewhat on the side of caution.

Nick.

 

[Guest]

Almost identical to the method I'm planning Nick, although it only exists in sketchup for now.

I'm figuring in thicker OSB for the walls and rockwool RWA45 as I want a high level of soundproofing, but following the membrane / battens / cladding method for maximum weather proofing.

 

[KarlW]

I settled on tin from a factor of cost, 4by3metre set me back £1400, to buy insulated added more than buying insulation sheets. Base is concrete on DPC, with an overlap strip.
Base cost more than anticipated as when levelling the garden I had to raise the front rather than drop the back, this required a retaining wall to be built on a proper footing.
Electrical stuff cost nothing as I jusr robbed it all out of my brother in laws work van.......

 

[AlanG]

Had a metal shed but Scottish storm winds made light work of that. Need something a lot more heavy duty

 

[KarlW]

I'm looking at the Mull of Kintyre now, proper box section and lots of proper screws, the first big storm had me awake with worry though, but once that was over I know it's fine.

 

[stillp]

Shiplap would send the costs rocketing though. I know it would be better but cost is a factor and i cannot get that from the sawmill. Although i suppose i could find out how to router it myself.

I'm surprised your sawmill can't supply shiplap Alan. Is there only one in your area?
Pete

 

[AlanG]

There are four sawmills in our area. Two from the same company and two others. Two only supply to trade and one to to the public. I'm not sure about the forth. I need to do a little more investigation to confirm.

 

[dave]

Mine followed similar construction to Nicks, only difference was the roof was corrugated aluminium, as where we lived out in a hamlet, planning insisted it needed to look more like a traditional agricultural building.