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Del640

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Another query!

I've been given a T-55A tank to build.
Its by Miniart and clearly not an easy build for me (especially my eyesight and Shakey hands!!)

It's got so many sprues I'm amazed...not for the feint hearted!!

however, it has a tow line that requires me to scratchbuild...the two towing eyes are included however I have to make the line between, any advice on what to use?

It's 10cm in length.

Thanks in advance again!

Del.
 
Can you get hold of an old bicycle (NOT motorbike - that would be too thick) brake cable or similar? Cut it to length and soak it in a bit of water. Rusted steel - exactly what the original is made from!

If that's too thick, a lot of folks use nylon string painted silver - but you'll have to smooth out any fuzzy bits. Using beeswax might stop your paint sticking, but you could try a bit of PVA. Put some on your finger and thumb and run the string through it a few times.
 
Hi Del, If I was you I'd get some 3 core wire new or recycled and strip the insulation off and hey presto you have twisted cable, take out strands to gat the size required, regards Jim
 
Hi Del, nylon thread has nearly no fuz as opposed to cotton which is a nightmare to keep smooth. Jim's idea is best and really looks the part.

As a starter the Miniart kit is not for the faint hearted. A collegue is building one and he counts roughly 1000 parts with a full interior. A simple seat easily has 10 parts...same with the turret machine gun.

Cheers,
Richard
 
Can you get hold of an old bicycle (NOT motorbike - that would be too thick) brake cable or similar? Cut it to length
That has more problems than it appears at first, unfortunately. Once upon a time I bought some thin steel cable, maybe 1 mm thick, that was sold for necklace-making (apparently, they put beads on the cable) because I thought it would be good for model tow cables. Cutting it is rather difficult, because you want neat ends for the eyes to fit to — a frayed end isn’t a problem for a bike cable, but won’t do for a model. The only good way I found was to use a cutting disc in a motor tool, everything else frayed or squashed the strands.

Even with that solved, the cables usually don’t ook right when put onto a tank model, because they’re too rigid and so don’t bend into the kinds of curves they’re often stowed in on a real tank. If the cable is kept straight on the vehicle (like on the M1 Abrams), you’re good. Try to put one onto a Sherman or a Leopard, and it’s just not going to look right :(

and soak it in a bit of water. Rusted steel - exactly what the original is made from!
Steel tow cables should really not be rusted :) They often are on museum exhibits, but on tanks in service they tend to be kept oiled a little so they won’t rust, as far as I know.
 
Del

I've found that if you have any old coax TV aerial cable you can strip the insulation, remove the core and twist the outer (tubular) layer tightly to give a fair impression of tow cable. As the wire is thin gauge copper it will conform easily to the contours of your tank.
A couple of metres of old cable will last ages! any odd broken wires just adds to the feel

Mark

IMG_2718[1].JPG
 
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Hi Del, nylon thread has nearly no fuz as opposed to cotton which is a nightmare to keep smooth. Jim's idea is best and really looks the part.

As a starter the Miniart kit is not for the faint hearted. A collegue is building one and he counts roughly 1000 parts with a full interior. A simple seat easily has 10 parts...same with the turret machine gun.

Cheers,
Richard
Richard, tell me about it!!!

Never seen such a basic track set up..91links held together by two miniscule pins that love to fall out...times that by two and that's a good two hours of your life you won't get back!!
 

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Hi Del

If you want to be lazy you can buy them on Evilbay. Karaya do an extensive range of just cables of different thickness's
 
Failing all that, brass picture hanging wire works nicely. Being brass it can be cut easily and will hold bends so you can make it look natural On the model.
 
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