AN I got the point when matron appeard lol
sore butt chris lol
Straight lines
- Thread starter Gern
- Start date
sore butt chris lol
Shaky hands. Artists use a small cloth bag filled with odd bits of rag and tied or stitched up at the edge to support their wrist on and keep their hand steady when working. Maybe this could be an idea to use when detail painting. Also photographic suppliers can supply small bean bags to support a camera in confined space when a tripod is out of the question that could be used for wrist support instead.
Have you tried lightly running a sharp pointed blade around the junction of frame and transparency?
G
When I started in the days of pencil & rubber within an architetcs office we had to render drawings. Colour all the brickwork conc etc all with watercolour. We and another probationer spent hours practising
First for any accurate work you need a first class brush. It has to have spring. Not the cheap floppy stuff.
Second wet the brush before use which keeps paint from the stock. You need the brush hairs free at the stock.
Regularly wash brush of drying paint & dry hairs before taking on board more paint.
Third paint only on the first third of the brush & not to much of it.
Fourth before putting paint to the object practice on a piece of paper.
Fifth. Painting. Palm firmly on the work top resting on the little finger. Brush resting on the middle finger, middle finger resting on the work top which is then used as the tramline to draw the brush along.
Sixth. Use the spring of the brush. Push the third of the brush with the paint firmly on the surface to be painted. The hairs of the brush firmly on the surface under tension so that the brush cannot have its own way. ie push the tip of the brush down to ensure it is bent under pressure. This is the reasoning for a good brush with spring.
Akward & small pieces use the chest as the work top.
Then using the middle finger firmly pull the brush towards you. Rest & take a new position to continue. Do not move the palm at all use the middle finger to work the brush.
If an item has to be held with the left hand ensure that it is also held so that it cannot move at all.
Even at 82 (learnt at 16 when I started work) I can still pull straight & equally curved lines with the above technique.
Laurie
First for any accurate work you need a first class brush. It has to have spring. Not the cheap floppy stuff.
Second wet the brush before use which keeps paint from the stock. You need the brush hairs free at the stock.
Regularly wash brush of drying paint & dry hairs before taking on board more paint.
Third paint only on the first third of the brush & not to much of it.
Fourth before putting paint to the object practice on a piece of paper.
Fifth. Painting. Palm firmly on the work top resting on the little finger. Brush resting on the middle finger, middle finger resting on the work top which is then used as the tramline to draw the brush along.
Sixth. Use the spring of the brush. Push the third of the brush with the paint firmly on the surface to be painted. The hairs of the brush firmly on the surface under tension so that the brush cannot have its own way. ie push the tip of the brush down to ensure it is bent under pressure. This is the reasoning for a good brush with spring.
Akward & small pieces use the chest as the work top.
Then using the middle finger firmly pull the brush towards you. Rest & take a new position to continue. Do not move the palm at all use the middle finger to work the brush.
If an item has to be held with the left hand ensure that it is also held so that it cannot move at all.
Even at 82 (learnt at 16 when I started work) I can still pull straight & equally curved lines with the above technique.
Laurie
Thanks for the replies on this reprisal of my original post. Lots of good advice but none of it is useful until I get my hands to stop shaking. Just to let you know how badly, do any of you remember my "Somewhere in Russia" dio:
That river is about 50mm wide and when I tried spreading out the filler I used for the water using a spatula, it was banging against both sides of the ravine. So my hand shakes up to about 30mm from side to side if you see what I mean. It's obviously not always that bad, but it gets worse the more I try to concentrate and the more delicate the work I'm trying to do. It's crazy but I can lift up a can of soup and put it in the cupboard when putting my shopping away without my hand shaking because I don't need to concentrate on holding it steady - but I can't carry a mug of tea the same size and weight without spilling it everywhere.
That's why I've not touched a model for 6 months or so and it's also why I'm REALLY hoping my visit to the neuro doc next month will provide some help.
That river is about 50mm wide and when I tried spreading out the filler I used for the water using a spatula, it was banging against both sides of the ravine. So my hand shakes up to about 30mm from side to side if you see what I mean. It's obviously not always that bad, but it gets worse the more I try to concentrate and the more delicate the work I'm trying to do. It's crazy but I can lift up a can of soup and put it in the cupboard when putting my shopping away without my hand shaking because I don't need to concentrate on holding it steady - but I can't carry a mug of tea the same size and weight without spilling it everywhere.
That's why I've not touched a model for 6 months or so and it's also why I'm REALLY hoping my visit to the neuro doc next month will provide some help.
That must be very frustrating Dave, I wish you all the best with your visit to the neuro doctor next month.
Steve
Steve
Well look at that, some of the best tips are the simplest. All these years, I never knew that one.
Hope your visit goes well Dave. You deserve a break!
G
I know this is now an old thread, but when Tim mentioned this company I had a look. Found this for painting straight lines, a tape with a gap ! Might be a help with any lines for boats/ ships ?
FINESSE STRIPER TAPE
A unique and ingenious tape for applying single lines, double lines and treble lines in over 70 combinations of line width.
The tapes come in a standard length of 42ft or 12.8 metres and 8 of the most popular lines are also available in 160ft (48.7 metres).
Finesse pinstriping tapes enable you to match and repair just about any pinstripe job or to complete paint pinstriping jobs economically with superior results.
The striping tape works as a stencil: you simply apply the stencil, paint over it, and peel it off once dry, leaving a clean, sharp line. Nothing even comes close. No fuzzy edges and no edge build-up because the stencil material is so thin. It is also versatile; you can make bends, points and corners.
Please note the stipes shown are representative of the stripes of paint, left after the tape has been removed....read more
View attachment 423017
FILTER BY
BRAND
TO USE WITH
QUALITY
BRUSH HAIR : TYPE
VEGAN
PRICE RANGE
ITEMS 1 TO 20 OF 61 TOTAL | SHOW 20 - 40 - 60 | NEXT >> | Sort By Default Sort By Name A-Z Sort By Name Z-A Sort By Price - Low to High Sort By Price - High to Low
FINESSE STRIPER TAPE
A unique and ingenious tape for applying single lines, double lines and treble lines in over 70 combinations of line width.
The tapes come in a standard length of 42ft or 12.8 metres and 8 of the most popular lines are also available in 160ft (48.7 metres).
Finesse pinstriping tapes enable you to match and repair just about any pinstripe job or to complete paint pinstriping jobs economically with superior results.
The striping tape works as a stencil: you simply apply the stencil, paint over it, and peel it off once dry, leaving a clean, sharp line. Nothing even comes close. No fuzzy edges and no edge build-up because the stencil material is so thin. It is also versatile; you can make bends, points and corners.
Please note the stipes shown are representative of the stripes of paint, left after the tape has been removed....read more
View attachment 423017
FILTER BY
BRAND
TO USE WITH
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BRUSH HAIR : TYPE
VEGAN
PRICE RANGE
ITEMS 1 TO 20 OF 61 TOTAL | SHOW 20 - 40 - 60 | NEXT >> | Sort By Default Sort By Name A-Z Sort By Name Z-A Sort By Price - Low to High Sort By Price - High to Low
- View attachment 423018
Finesse : Pinstriping Tape : F-50 : 2.38mm Stripe, 1.58mm Space, 2.38mm Stripe
F-50
In Stock Online
Excl. Vat £7.19Incl. Vat £8.63
QUANTITY
ADD - View attachment 423019
Finesse : Pinstriping Tape : F-37 : 0.79mm Stripe, 0.79mm Space, 0.79mm Stripe, 0.79mm Space, 0.79mm Stripe
F-37
In Stock Online
Excl. Vat £8.28Incl. Vat £9.94
QUANTITY
ADD - View attachment 423020
Finesse : Pinstriping Tape : F-38 : 3.11mm Stripe, 3.11mm Space, 3.11mm Stripe, 3.11mm Space, 3.11mm Stripe
F-38
In Stock Online
Excl. Vat £8.28Incl. Vat £9.94
QUANTITY
ADD - View attachment 423021
Finesse : Pinstriping Tape : F-39 : 12.7mm Stripe
F-39
Awaiting Stock
Excl. Vat £8.28Incl. Vat £9.94
Out of stock - View attachment 423022
Finesse : Pinstriping Tape : F-4 : 3.17mm Stripe, 3.17mm Space, 1.58mm Stripe
F-4
In Stock Online
Excl. Vat £7.19Incl. Vat £8.63
QUANTITY
ADD - https://www.handover.co.uk/finesse-pinstriping-tape-f-41-1-58mm-stripe-1-98mm-space-1-58mm-strip
Attachments
DITTO on that DAVE from me
chris
YEA John it is good as i have two reels of it but unlucky for me its not big enough in depth but thanks for sharein as i was goin to post about this pinstripein but you beat me to it see great minds think alike lol
chris
Looks like that will be boot strapping on a roll John! Good spot. Handover sable brushes are supposed to be up there with the best as well....being designed for professional signwriters they probably have to be. I’ve never tried them though....
G
Your welcome Chris, it's down to Tim seeing it first.
I must be getting old John. I can’t remember seeing that before at all....unless there’s another Tim and my memory is failing all together.
G
Book marked the page Tim, I see the smallest brush is a 00, but of course rather long at around 25 odd mm. Still as you say being for professional sign writers they aren't going to want to have loose hairs ! :smiling3:
Should hold more paint so paint for longer John. It also keeps the paint out of the ferrules more easily so keeps the brush shape...
G
At that price I might have a crack, there were plenty of other materials that I used for refinishing. I saw they even stocked Purdy brushes (no good for us as the smallest id 1 " :smiling3: ) I kept my Purdy brushes, had some of them for 10 years, never lose a hair. All hand made in the US and signed by the maker. Not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
Who said that ... ?
The other thing to remember John is that brush makers all number their brush sizes 0,1,2,3 etc, but there is no standard for these sizes. Every makers brushes therefore vary in dimension for any given “size”.
I still have & use my Dads' "sash brush" (approx. 2.5") he used "for small work" since he got into his dads' remodeling business until his retirement as a San Diego County Master Painter in the mid 70s. He used a 4" brush for all other brush work. He also taught me how to hold and load a brush for sign painting. PaulE
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