discussion Sukhoi Su-27 Flanker B Trumpeter Scale 1:32

[arb65912]

I finally tried Stynylrez Acrylic Primer White.

I added some Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver as nozzle was getting dried and it went nice. I think that is what the primer should be after it cures. Surface is hard, you can sand through and there is no peeling or edges, smooth transition. Love it.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Great finish on that Andrzej.

 

[adt70hk]

That's looking very nice indeed!!!

Great work.

Andrew

 

[arb65912]

I hope the final coat looks good as well when the time comes. :smiling:

I am also tempted by very "crazy" or at least not very common idea. You know how wings gets into the pins at the bottom of the wings so they will never come out after fuselage halves are joined?

I saw the guy struggling with wings dropping, actually one wing dropping, and it took him a long time for it to get glued to the fuselage without hanging down.
These two pins that will not let the wings to slide out also do not let them to get closer to the fuselage side to get the better fit for gluing area where wing root touches the fuselage side.

So, the crazy idea is to make wings to be able to slide in and then glue them after gluing the fuselage bottom and top together.

I know it is crazy, but I think doable. :nerd:

Please share your thoughts on that, I am curious of what you think. Thank you! Please read my explanation carefully, I am not sure I explained it clear enough.

 

[arb65912]

Anybody has any ideas?

 

[boatman]

Anybody has any ideas?

WELL Andrzej I USE this idea quite a lot on bit on my tiger to hold bits firmly in place as i just drill a 1mm hole in one bit an the same in the bit i want it to go too then i glue in brass 1mm pins an then put C/A on them an push togeather an ive not had a brakeage yet very firm hold
chrisb

 

[arb65912]

WELL Andrzej I USE this idea quite a lot on bit on my tiger to hold bits firmly in place as i just drill a 1mm hole in one bit an the same in the bit i want it to go too then i glue in brass 1mm pins an then put C/A on them an push togeather an ive not had a brakeage yet very firm hold
chrisb

Thanks, Chris!
I like the idea. I do not think I will be needing to use pins as there are tabs that will slide into the slots but I might do that on elevators.

 

[adt70hk]

Hi Andrzej,

If I think I've understood you properly.....my lack of experience with planes in general and no experience with jets at all doesn't help....I think it should work.

Hope that helps.

Andrew

 

[Airborne01]

Fractures are harder to rectify as they appear in the clear plastic and not on the surface so it's either to get a new canopy or live with the fracture. He had the canopy opened so it's less obvious if you want to look into the cockpit.

Cheers,
Richard

Just a question, and I don't have any form of answer, - is there a mechanism (similar to windscreen repairs) to inject an optically similar 'fluid' into the faults that anybody knows of?
Steve

 

[rtfoe]

Just a question, and I don't have any form of answer, - is there a mechanism (similar to windscreen repairs) to inject an optically similar 'fluid' into the faults that anybody knows of?
Steve

Good question...both are different material therefore have different reactions to fractures and repairs. Have no answer though.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Guest]

Just joined this rather late, so apologies Andrzeji .
Reading through your posts think we have all had problems like you describe, it's a big learning curve. Take you time, and most of all it's supposed to be fun with a sence of achievement, so enjoy :smiling3:

 

[arb65912]

Just joined this rather late, so apologies Andrzeji .
Reading through your posts think we have all had problems like you describe, it's a big learning curve. Take you time, and most of all it's supposed to be fun with a sence of achievement, so enjoy :smiling3:

Hi John and thank you for a great reply.

I do agree 100%, it is a constant learning process and it should be fun along the way. I am trying to enjoy everything that happens, even bad experiences.

Here is an example, I had two little parts that need to be glued in before fuselage halves are glued together. That means they need to be painted and washed.
I painted them with Vallejo Air (brushing on), I added gloss coat and then tried black Vallejo wash.
I waited 45 minutes so the wash was dry.
Then I started removing it using Q-Tip dipped in Vallejo Paint Thinner (as per instructions).

No good, first of all, I should not use black wash as it looks just too dark on light bluish grey.
Second, it did not remove the wash smoothly, when I used more wet Q-Tip it started to remove gloss and paint underneath.

I decided to clean it all off and repaint and try one of these Flory's clay washes, it supposed to come off easily, just depending on how much water we use, it could be totally removed without damaging paint (gloss varnish in this case) underneath.

In other words, bad experience and a lesson.
Will try again and no rush.

 

[Guest]

If the surface to be glued isn’t too complex, you can also just scrape off the paint with a knife.

 

[arb65912]

If the surface to be glued isn’t too complex, you can also just scrape off the paint with a knife.

I used thinner, then knife and now will sand a bit where I can. Thanks!

 

[arb65912]

Here is my front canopy and broken back one.

Take a careful look at the pictures. I dipped the front one in the Pledge Floor Finish (after sanding with various grits and polishing with auto plastic compound.
There is shady area, and it is not on the outside or inside, I looked against light.

How did that happen? Something I did or it was there, I do not remember now.

The cracked and glued canopy will be sanded and dipped in Pledge Floor Finish, but cracks will be visible, so I am not trying to make cockpit look nice, I made mistakes and glued it together so it is very hard to do anything.

This is my learning and testing model anyway, so it is all good! :tongue-out3:

Let me know what you think about that grayish area. I am very curious how it happened.

 

[arb65912]

I have learnt something... the paint adheres much better when there is a primer underneath. Duh. Lol. Maybe that is why some people suggest using primer all the time.

 

[Guest]

AFAIK, primer has two main purposes, yes One is to adhere well to the unpainted material underneath, so that the next coats of paint won’t come off as easily, and the other is to tie the colours together so you don’t get them showing through the top layers of paint. That last part is only important if you have a model that is made up from notably lighter and darker parts, like if you’ve converted a model by using parts from another in a very different shade of plastic.

But whether or not paint adheres to plastic depends a lot on which brand and/or type of paint you use. I’ve found that Vallejo Model Air is best used with primer — it sometimes even beads up if you spray it on bare plastic. On the other hand, Tamiya and Mr. Hobby paints (which are alcohol-based) stick like glue even with nothing whatsoever underneath them, while Mission Models paint, after it has dried, can be removed from bare plastic with a wet (with water) paintbrush …

 

[arb65912]

AFAIK, primer has two main purposes, yes :smiling3: One is to adhere well to the unpainted material underneath, so that the next coats of paint won’t come off as easily, and the other is to tie the colours together so you don’t get them showing through the top layers of paint. That last part is only important if you have a model that is made up from notably lighter and darker parts, like if you’ve converted a model by using parts from another in a very different shade of plastic.

But whether or not paint adheres to plastic depends a lot on which brand and/or type of paint you use. I’ve found that Vallejo Model Air is best used with primer — it sometimes even beads up if you spray it on bare plastic. On the other hand, Tamiya and Mr. Hobby paints (which are alcohol-based) stick like glue even with nothing whatsoever underneath them, while Mission Models paint, after it has dried, can be removed from bare plastic with a wet (with water) paintbrush …

Thanks, Jakko!

As far as primer, I think another reason is to hide any fillings you made if the putty was some different color, right?

I am surprised how different these brands stick to the plain plastic.
That tells me that if I want to use Vallejo Air paints, I better prime all first. :tongue-out3:

 

[Guest]

It depends on which colour your plastic and filler are, I would say. I wouldn’t see the need to prime over light grey plastic with white filler, for example, but for dark green plastic with a lot of white filler, I just might

 

[arb65912]

The area you see circled on the attached screenshot, is painted (wrong color by the way but as I was not a member of the forums, I did not know....) with Vallejo Air and then with Vallejo Gloss (thick layer as you see)
I want to do wash using Flory's wash coming soon and I want to try Dry Brush as well.
Which one I do first?
I would say wash as I will need to remove wash so if I do dry brush first, I might remove it as well, correct?

Another question, will dry brush work using the same Vallejo paint with added 2 drops of white paint?
Will it work if there is already gloss coat?

Sorry for so many questions but it is my newbie right.