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I would think you’d risk the paint crazing if the surface layer dried too fast Paul. You’d also potentially distort the plastic as well.!
As an aside, do you think the mini heat guns would work in place of a hair-dryer to quick-dry acrylic paints?
Morning all. :smiling3:
Some weekend progress.
Back wheel CF'd and glossed.
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Swing arm completed.
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Exhaust built and painted.
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And the detail painting done on the frame. This involved some tricky masking but came out OK.
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Next up is getting CF decals on the frame. I'm only going to cover the bits that will be seen, so to that end I've been cleaning up the various body panels so they can be test fitted to work out how far the decals need to go.
Cheers Chris. :smiling3:
It depends a lot on the paint finish. I mainly use Tamiya LP (lacquer) paints which tend to lay down very smoothly. The washes on this bike, and the decals, were all over bare paint. However, if I'm building a plane or AFV I do usually gloss first, mainly because panel lines tend to be way longer and it helps the wash to flow, or if using a clay wash the whole thing gets covered and it's easier to remove from where I don't want it.
TidyMorning all. :smiling3:
I had a lazy weekend so didn't do much modelling. I did gloss coat the body panels, and matt coat the parts with CF, but not worth a picture. Other than that I painted the shocks and got the front end put together.
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Are the fork DP or standard.Morning all. :smiling3:
I had a lazy weekend so didn't do much modelling. I did gloss coat the body panels, and matt coat the parts with CF, but not worth a picture. Other than that I painted the shocks and got the front end put together.
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