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The glue looper v4

BattleshipBob

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I must be on a roll, another review.

A big reminder folks, it's my opinion!!

The Glue looper by Creative Dynamic

Bought this from John, there are a few versions for different types of glue, this is for thin CA or thin plastic glue. Always had problems applying CA, all my fault!! so giving this a whirl!
20220927_112749.jpg20220928_131503.jpg20220928_131514.jpg
Looked at this a while ago but at the time hard to find. Comes with simple instructions, 7 looper but no handle.

Used a xacto type handle, the looper comes with foldable end to make it thicker and tighter in the handle
20221011_125435.jpg20221011_125546.jpg
You can see above it has two prongs, the instructions say to just touch only the lower prong in the glue. This is bit fiddly at first, easy to put both prongs in the glue and flood it.

I used first with AK very thin plastic red glue
20221011_125746.jpg
Above you can see how the glue has filled the reservoir. However by the time I tried to glue plastic it had gone off lol. Used a lighter and flashed the prongs to clear it.

Then used thin CA, small puddle In a old Pringles lid, lightly dipped the lower prong into the puddle. Used scrap plastic and very quickly was able to put four drops of CA, large to small on a row
20221118_121839.jpg
You may have to expand the photo but they are there honest. The reservoir holds enough for at least 3 to 4 good applications of CA.

Stuck various bits of PE to plastic. Personally I am impressed, was able to see the CA going on using capillary action, leaving only slight residue. Will use it on KGV. With regards to using extra thin plastic glue, i think you will have to be quick, i found it dried on the looper very quickly.

Previously I have attached PE but left behind large CA residues, much neater.

initially found it a bit awkward to angle the looper to get the lower prong into the glue, but got there in the end.

Remember to clean the prongs, I used a lighter flame on a regular basis, I could here the glue crackling as it burnt off. Mr Race has also bought one, do not know how he's getting on with it??

Only my opinion folks, there are much better modellers and CA users out there!!
 

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I must be on a roll, another review.

A big reminder folks, it's my opinion!!

The Glue looper by Creative Dynamic

Bought this from John, there are a few versions for different types of glue, this is for thin CA or thin plastic glue. Always had problems applying CA, all my fault!! so giving this a whirl!

Looked at this a while ago but at the time hard to find. Comes with simple instructions, 7 looper but no handle.

Used a xacto type handle, the looper comes with foldable end to make it thicker and tighter in the handle

You can see above it has two prongs, the instructions say to just touch only the lower prong in the glue. This is bit fiddly at first, easy to put both prongs in the glue and flood it.

I used first with AK very thin plastic red glue

Above you can see how the glue has filled the reservoir. However by the time I tried to glue plastic it had gone off lol. Used a lighter and flashed the prongs to clear it.

Then used thin CA, small puddle In a old Pringles lid, lightly dipped the lower prong into the puddle. Used scrap plastic and very quickly was able to put four drops of CA, large to small on a row

You may have to expand the photo but they are there honest. The reservoir holds enough for at least 3 to 4 good applications of CA.

Stuck various bits of PE to plastic. Personally I am impressed, was able to see the CA going on using capillary action, leaving only slight residue. Will use it on KGV. With regards to using extra thin plastic glue, i think you will have to be quick, i found it dried on the looper very quickly.

Previously I have attached PE but left behind large CA residues, much neater.

initially found it a bit awkward to angle the looper to get the lower prong into the glue, but got there in the end.

Remember to clean the prongs, I used a lighter flame on a regular basis, I could here the glue crackling as it burnt off. Mr Race has also bought one, do not know how he's getting on with it??

Only my opinion folks, there are much better modellers and CA users out there!!
Nice review, might invest in one soon……
 
"the instructions say to just touch only the lower prong in the glue" That's not what I read in the instructions - doesn't it say to dip the bottom half of the prongs into the glue then only touch the bottom prong to the part you're trying to glue?
Pete
 
Nice review Bob,
liked your photos. That red showed up very well the wicking principle.
I put a blob of glue on a plastic bottle cap , dipped the end in the glue, and dragged it along the the line of the timber join. Worked well, would have wicked better had my bottle of glue not been so old. Since then I have ordered some Loctite that Dave Ward recommended .

Like Bob I burnt off the old glue from the tip, but might be a better idea to just wipe the tip in debonder to save the tip from giving up.
Don't know how long you could keep burning off the tips before they disappear.

For me a better idea than using any old piece of wire, or even the needle end . Glad I bought it .
 
I have to admit to being a needle user for CA and you can burn the tip with a lighter flame forever, whatever works for you though. BTW, nice review Bob.

Andy.
 
Thread owner
"the instructions say to just touch only the lower prong in the glue" That's not what I read in the instructions - doesn't it say to dip the bottom half of the prongs into the glue then only touch the bottom prong to the part you're trying to glue?
Pete
Ah you found my test mistake Pete, there to test if anybody taking notice lol
 
Thread owner
Nice review Bob,
liked your photos. That red showed up very well the wicking principle.
I put a blob of glue on a plastic bottle cap , dipped the end in the glue, and dragged it along the the line of the timber join. Worked well, would have wicked better had my bottle of glue not been so old. Since then I have ordered some Loctite that Dave Ward recommended .

Like Bob I burnt off the old glue from the tip, but might be a better idea to just wipe the tip in debonder to save the tip from giving up.
Don't know how long you could keep burning off the tips before they disappear.

For me a better idea than using any old piece of wire, or even the needle end . Glad I bought it .
Thanks John, will use on KGV to see how it performs on a kit.
 
Nice one Bob, thanks for the review :thumb2:

I usually struggle along with a cocktail stick but I think I may upgrade to one of these sets now.

Geoff.
 
Thread owner
Nice one Bob, thanks for the review :thumb2:

I usually struggle along with a cocktail stick but I think I may upgrade to one of these sets now.

Geoff.
Me to as well Geoff, have used a few things but these show promise, I hope lol
 
Nice review bob , ive tried the needle with the end cut off method but its not very controllable , maybe these will be better , being very thin . At the moment im using the cocktail stick that gets thicker with every use method !
 
Great review @Bobthestug ,
Having seen these used / demonstrated some years ago at SMW and being quite impressed I wished I had bought some on the day, and had searched recently to get some. I got some of the V2.1 type recently off John.
Have only used the V2.1 ones so far but have been impressed with how they work. Is interesting to see your experience with the V4.
I have several types of needles with modified eyes and none seem to work quite as well as the loopers do...
 
Nice review Bob
I notice John sells 3 different ones. What is the difference between the V3, V4 and V2.1?
 
Thread owner
Nice review Bob
I notice John sells 3 different ones. What is the difference between the V3, V4 and V2.1?
No expert but V3 is for thicker CA and V2 I think is an older version of V4, it has a different round loop at the end. I will buy a V2 from John to try it out

hope this helps
 
I like the slotted one much better than the loop. Easier to transfer the glue - and I don't tend to glue the looper to the part as often...
 
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