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Thinning Vallejo Model Colour paints

AlanG

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I am used to using Vallejo Model air paints and they come pre-tinned, ready to spray.

But i have a few Model colour paints that i would like to use to spray and they are not pre-thinned. What medium should i use to thin them? Preferably cheap as possible.
 
I am used to using Vallejo Model air paints and they come pre-tinned, ready to spray.

But i have a few Model colour paints that i would like to use to spray and they are not pre-thinned. What medium should i use to thin them? Preferably cheap as possible.

98% IPA mate.

I how this helps too
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I prefer using the vallejo 'airbrush thinner' because it helps the adhesion of the thinned paint (it's sort of sticky)
Cheers, Steven
 
I use Vallejo paints all the time. The only thinner I have ever used is plain old water ! Possibly not the best, but it works for me.
John.
 
Alan

I do it regularly for my British armour. I use their own thinner. I start at a ratio of 1:1 and adjust from there if it's a bit thick or thin.

Depending on how much I'm mixing I use a drop or two of a drying retarder as part of the thinning mixture.

HTH.

Andrew
 
For airbrush work I would also add a drop of flow improver or you’ll probably get bad tip drying. I find that very useful with model air colour as well.
 
I am used to using Vallejo Model air paints and they come pre-tinned, ready to spray.

But i have a few Model colour paints that i would like to use to spray and they are not pre-thinned. What medium should i use to thin them? Preferably cheap as possible.
Alan,
I always use good South Gloucestershire tap water - very soft water & I don't have any problems with residue in the airbrush - best of all it's on tap - unlimited supply!
Dave
 
I started off using tap water but I found that the dried and cured paint was very fragile, allmost chalky and was very easy taking scratches and sucked up finger prints like a sponge.
Use the correct thinners and it was a joy. Hard when dry and didn't scratch, the finish was also much better.
In fairness I will add that our water here is pretty much as hard as it can be :(
 
I started off using tap water but I found that the dried and cured paint was very fragile, allmost chalky and was very easy taking scratches and sucked up finger prints like a sponge.
Use the correct thinners and it was a joy. Hard when dry and didn't scratch, the finish was also much better.
In fairness I will add that our water here is pretty much as hard as it can be :sad:
I have an electric kettle that has been in daily use for 20+ years & the element hasn't furred up ( just using tap water - never been cleaned internally! ). A bar of soap lasts ages - you only have to pick it up and your hands get covered in lather!
Dave
 
Oh David you rotter you. Cleaning the kettle and coffee maker is a twice a month job here...
 
Our water is between 16-18 DH which is as high as the scale goes,
 
Acrylic paint has a propensity to turn chalky when over diluted, especially lighter colours, so it may not be related to water hardness ;) ;) That’s why I tend to use the manufacturers thinner or medium when making washes and glazes :tongue-out3:
Not heard hardness quoted in DH units Ian, I’ve always seen it quoted in PPM?
 
16.27 dH here by the way, so our water is well hard innit!
Not as hard as my water which is well harder than yours....17.3 dH!!! ;) :smiling5:

In all seriousness we're apparently in the top 20 of hardest water areas in the country....

Genuinely thanks for the tip on over dilution being linked to chalkiness in lighter colours. Didn't know that was a thing.

ATB.

Andrew
 
Not as hard as my water which is well harder than yours....17.3 dH!!! ;) :smiling5:

In all seriousness we're apparently in the top 20 of hardest water areas in the country....

Genuinely thanks for the tip on over dilution being linked to chalkiness in lighter colours. Didn't know that was a thing.

ATB.

Andrew
No probs Andrew, neither did I until it happened to me. I thought I’d got talc in the paint somehow :surprised:
 
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