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Tips for glueing transparencies.

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I am very new to modeling and have only done 2 so far, but in both cases I ended up with glue on the transparency, not so much from sticky fingers but, as I positioned each piece it pushed the glue out onto the plastic in a small bubble. This occurred on the inside sometimes so masking isn't an option. I'm using precision humbrol glue.
 
bin the glue.....its not good for transparancies
buy some Humbrol Clear...its basically a acrylic varnish
dip your transparencies in it and leave to dry..........it will make it really clear (watch out for dust and cat hairs lol) and will also work as a 'barrier' for glue
then either use really tacky pva glue as it dries clear.....or use tiny tiny spots of CA.....dont over do it
or if you have the cash you can buy 'specialist glue' from modelling sources

the thing with using CA is that the fumes it gives off will cause clear bits to 'fog'.......so apply the glue and leave it for a minute for the fumes to flash off......the humbrol clear works like a coating to help stop it happening too
 
Hi Rigger,

Is that as in Airframe rigger? Best trade in the Air Force rigger? Then it is good to have another on the forum.

I use Deluxe materials Glue n glaze for transparencies. Dipping them in Humbrol Clear is a good tip, makes your canopies sparkle - after all how many jockeys give a toss about the puddle of OM-15 under the jet as long as he can see through the windows?
 
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Hi Rigger,

Is that as in Airframe rigger? Best trade in the Air Force rigger? Then it is good to have another on the forum.

I use Deluxe materials Glue n glaze for transparencies. Dipping them in Humbrol Clear is a good tip, makes your canopies sparkle - after all how many jockeys give a toss about the puddle of OM-15 under the jet as long as he can see through the windows?
 
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Yeah old style airframes rigger. Then engines too. I'm modelling everything I've worked on, just starting a harrier Gr7.
 
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Thanks for the tip about the clear. Ive done a wessex, jaguar and merlin so far and the windows look s"#t.
 
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Just use a clear gloss varnish the same stuff you dipped the canopy in. Good luck.
 
I use PVA to glue them on.....it comes out of a bottle called canopy glue LOL.
I don’t dip my canopies after a disaster on a build which meant I had to source another one. I now polish my canopies (and other clear parts like car screens) with Tamiya polishing compounds, finishing with the fine stuff. Makes them look exactly like glass. I know aircraft screens are usually Perspex, but this gives them a jewel like shine.....
 
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Yeah old style airframes rigger. Then engines too. I'm modelling everything I've worked on, just starting a harrier Gr7.
Ex RAF rigger here too. I'm just starting on modelling each aircraft I've worked on. Just started a Tornado, although it was with Bae not the RAF that I worked in it.
 
GS Hypo Cement is my 'go to' product for fixing clear parts.

It is gel like, so easy to control. It also takes a little while to go off, allowing you some wiggle room. Once it is set it will stick any part to another like the proverbial you know what to a blanket.

I get mine online, just google the name. A tube will last a long time!

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Cheers

Steve
 

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Have always used Krystal Clear. It also works for making small flat glass windows due to its high surface tension, although after 25 years in the bottle it starts to yellow a bit:smiling4:. PaulE
 
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I used to use PVA (white) glue ages ago, but then bought a bottle of Humbrol ClearFix and found that works very well. Plus it’s economical: I use so little of it that I still have the same bottle 20+ years on :)
 
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