Pocher Porsche 917 1/8 Scale

[Bigfoot57]

Porsche 917K continuation of build this time adding the rear Stub-axles and various bracing struts
So 1st assemble the Stub-axles this involved glueing on a coupling into the rear sub assembly then the axle was assembled as per instructions and this was glued into the coupling already glued on the car ready ready for the discbrake and caliper to be added as you can see from one of the pictures one had to be persuaded with the Birmingham screwdriver but it got there in the end and once the wheels were on, you won’t see any of this anyway

[Bigfoot57]

Porsche 917K continuation of build this time adding the torrison bar which had to be threaded through the lower framework to link up with the rear shock absorbers another PIA
Then came the parcel shelves which slot into place at the front of the oil and fuel sub assembly and are then attached to the rear of the subframe with screws from underneath after this you then attach two bracing struts from the base of the parcel shelves to a point on the subframe which in the instructions is wrong again Nigel pointed this out. They had it going to a place that you couldn’t reach where in actual fact there is a different point not shown on the instructions but you can see it on the model as you build it. There’s a small cut out and a hole underneath where you lock the bar in and then attach it to the base of the parcel shelf.
Now the reason they’re called parcel shelves is because according to the rules the cars had to have storage for suitcases so when you look at these parcel shelves which are black and look like mudguards they’ve actually got a piece at the back where a suitcase would fit crazy I know but that was the rules
Also added during this time was the rear lights now following a tip from Nigel I also mounted silver foil into the back of the light before fitting it onto the model. If you look at the photograph you’ll see that the left-hand light is very dull whereas the right hand light is a lot brighter. This is the one got fitted with the foil so afterwards I’ve retrofitted foil into the left one as well Great tip Nige, I will follow that on all my rear lights in future
Anyway with the fitting of these, you are now up-to-date where I am on the Porsche build

[Bigfoot57]

If anyone is interested the stand I’m using to build this kit on is a £20 laptop stand from Amazon it fully adjustable and tilts And his ideal for these large heavy kits

[Bigfoot57]

Porsche 917K continuing build
This time we’ve added a Bracing Strut over the top of the engine along with the trumpet ends which you can see sticking up just in front of the spare wheel and the spare wheel tie down shackles. These need to dry overnight before I try threading the belt material through them so they don’t pull off with secured them with a sanded down toothpick as in the instructions they were just glued on the top which is no good at all
There is some debate whether these were actually used in real life because some pictures a show like Bungy chords holding the spare wheel in and then others there’s nothing so this could be a bit of artistic license on Pocher is behalf anyway, they were in the instructions so I fitted them
and finally I’ve painted the inside of the body panels as they were the same colour as the outside which is completely wrong following Nigel‘s advice. I painted the back panel black and the rest in a dark grey might be too dark but you’re not gonna see it unless you lift the thing up anyway and it definitely looks better than the blue they were originally so when the glue is dried, I’ll be strapping in the spare wheel then we come to fit in the body panels after that it’s just the wheels and then it is finished

[minitnkr]

Excellent work. Too bad these models don't come with a recording, as the sounds this mill makes are wild.

[Bigfoot57]

Assembly in the body panels
so the first thing was to assemble the two doors these are on a sort of angled hinge which then clips into the bodywork and it secured with a bracket across the top which locks both of the hinge points into place
next the front and rear body panels are joined together and again I’ll lock together using bracing bracket after which the rear clear bulkhead which fits into the roof is added this also clips across where the two pieces join and reinforces it

[Bigfoot57]

next up assembly in the front lamps these are made of several pieces. or main lamp housing then you have the two lamps followed by the two lenses. All very straightforward until you come fit the large lenses and find out they’re too large to fit around the housing, so you have to sand them down by about a quarter of a millimetre all round to get them to fit
All transparency Work was glued with Contactor Clear which drives clear once it’s set you could also use ordinary contact wood adhesive that tries clear or the one that everybody’s probably familiar with Microscale Crystal Clear my normal go to but I had this Contactor Clear which I’ve never used before so I thought I’d give that a chance to see how it fared up on the results were good so all three of those type of glue will work
once the lights and rear panel were done, there was one last thing to do fit the cockpit glass canopy frame to the inside of the body panels and two rubber hoses that should’ve been fitted in an earlier stage but there was no point because there was nowhere for them to go so they were now fitted at this stage where they’re glued into the front top of the bonnet basically they have outlets at the front of the car which lead into the underneath the dashboard to supply fresh air to the cockpit
And finally joining the subframe to the body panels to say this was painful is an understatement. It wasn’t difficult but it took a lot of fettling to get the panels to lineup sufficiently to enable the screws to be inserted and tightened after about 20 minutes I actually managed to get one screw into place and this pulled the rest of it sufficiently to enable the remaining screws to be added as each screw was added so the panels lined up more and more
Next will be some additional parts added to the under surface I think they’re orange and blue with a black stripe then there’s a large amount of decaling to do as each wheel has five decals on it the wheels will then be assembled and added to the subframe and then you obviously got the numbers to go on the top of the car and the bonnet and the 2 fins on the rear which should complete the model

[minitnkr]

....just beautiful....

[Bigfoot57]

Porsche 917K continuation first off dry fit the transparency’s to make sure they fit so in the picture above you can see I’ve added the cockpit windscreen the two side windows and on the front the Headlamp covers next we will be adding decals to the wheels
so before the wheels can be fitted onto the car and in the case of the rear wheels before they can be assembled onto the tires, we have to add some decals
I have to say that the decals were superb quality as good as Cartograph’s they went down really smoothly and without a problem mind you they’re only small so you’ve got the big ones to do yet But hopefully they will be the same
After the decals was applied and then coated them with MICROSOL setting solution as you can see from the photograph once this is dried thoroughly I will then assemble the remaining wheels and get them added to the car before we move onto the rest of the decaling

[scottie3158]

Looking superb

[Bigfoot57]

Porsche 917K continuation adding the wheels to the chassis
So with the wheels decals done, I can now add the two remaining tires to the rear wheels and glue the tiny valves into place after this they are to simply screwed to the axles on the chassis like Nigel found out they’re not a great fit. They wobble all over the place though they look the part, so that’s good enough
With the wheels fitted it is now time to start the decaling and I have to say that the decals are superb. They go down really easy. (One word of caution here if anybody is making this when you come to fit the second decal on the bonnet with those little cut outs on it make sure that you cut the back piece of the triangle because it hasn’t been cut and you’ll have a problem getting it to set down if you don’t) They need just a bit of persuading to get rid of the wrinkles but other than that they’re fine they are then coated with MICROSOL setting solution and I’ve gone as far as I can at the moment as I’ve gotta wait for these decals already added to dry properly as to finish off the door decals. I’m going to need to tilt the model and I don’t want to handle it with wet decals on it

Apologies for the way the photos have come out they always come out above the text and this time they’ve come out back to front so instead of you showing the wheels with the valves being added it showing you the completed car to the stage I’ve got to it should be the other way round. I’ve tried to figure this thing out and I cannot get the text or the photos to go where I want them to.

[minitnkr]

Excellent progress.

[pjgtech]

Looks pucka mate....

[Bigfoot57]

Porsche 917K final section
so we come to the end at the last the wheels have been fitted on the centre hexagonal nuts covers have been added. There were two gurney flaps on the back to be fitted. Those have been added the windscreen wipers a cut off switch on the left-hand side is just basically a T piece that fits into a red circular cut out the top of the engine cover along with the two rocker covers and all the transparencies which will be held in place with double sided clear 1 mm tape which I’ve ordered and I’m waiting for a delivery. I’m not using glue cause it’s gonna show wherever you do so I think the best way is what Nigel suggested use clear double sided tape and once the model to put on the shelf inside its case it shouldn’t move anyway and the elements won’t get to it so it shouldn’t deteriorate too much either
So attached to this are the last of the instructions and photos to illustrate the final build sequence

[Bigfoot57]

The Finishing photos, Porsche 917K