discussion 1/4 Scale SE5a ( The Old Dutch )

[Guest]

Thanks Trey, i think it will look a lot better once it is a little more buisy.

Cheers

Andy

 

[Guest]

A little more progress on the dash. The supplier of the Vickers Gun and Lewis Gun are still awaiting delivery of the Lewis Gun. I have asked them to send me the Vickers Gun ahead so that i can progress with the fuss. i placed the order for these about 3 weeks ago and it is holding me up slightly.

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Cheers

Andy

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[tr1ckey66]

Hi Andy

Great progress on the SE5 - this is going to be really impressive. You must post pics of it flying when you've finished.

I've been reading the problems you've been having with the dash distortion so I had a little go myself. The file size isn't massive, I'd need the original file for that(I just took a screen grab). Also there's a slight fish eye to the lens that you just simply won't get rid of but I've straightened it up as much as I could.

You may have already sorted this but if this helps at all...

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Cheers

Paul

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[Guest]

Hi Andy! I love your dedication to detailing this on a level close to replication. If you have more plumbing to do; here's a trick that might come in handy for you. Before make the bends in the copper pipes insert a length of brass wire of the same diameter as the pipes inner diameter. This way you can avoid flatting the pipe along the bends.

If in fact you what the pipes to be capable of carrying fluids after being bend you'll need to use another approach. Plug one end of the copper pipe with something waterproof, then fill the pipe with water, seal the other end and stuff it in the freezer for a good number of hours. Now you need to work quickly; take out the frozen pipe and make the bends before the ice starts melting, if it does; check the seals and put it back in the freezer again. You probably can't avoid flattening altogether but it will help you reduce it.

I look forward to see this one get through it maiden-flight and I hope you'll post some video of it too!

/Daniel

 

[Guest]

Thanks Paul for your assistance, i will keep this as a standby if the CAD doesnt come out well, appreciated. Daniel, great tips there, i wll definatly give this a try on the other parts that need pipe. I did use a proper pipe bender but as you rightly observed, one of them did kink.

Thanks both.

Andy

 

[Ian M]

An other way of bending the pipes with out them flattening is to fill them with fine sand then put blue tac over the ends. If you want to go to extreams, you can even fill them with 70deg low melt solder........bend heat up and the solder runs out the end. (mind your fingers).

( Hi Daniel, I was wondering where you had gotten to the other day and then you pop up again! Hope you are well. Drop me a line.)

Ian M

 

[Guest]

Thanks Ian, appreciated.

Cheers

Andy

 

[Guest]

Just received my DB 1/4 SE5 and following your thread with interest. Great work.

 

[Guest]

Its a great kit, im sure you will enjoy it as much as i am.

Cheers

Andy

 

[Guest]

Well, Graham came up trumps, he has emailed me the clocks he used on his project and they are spot on. Thanks Graham!!!. I have moved on from the dash for a while now while im waiting for some solid nylon round section, this will be 60mm in diameter and i will work it to shape in the lathe to create the clocks.

I made some progress today on the fuzz and will be posting some pics tonight for you all to see.

Cheers

Andy

 

[Guest]

I promised you some pics and here they are. I have started on the fuel tank housing that also incorporates the recess for the Lewis gun. I have also worked on the Cabanes and have had to complete this work to allow the ply covering to go on... i love the squadren green and am always happy to use it when i can. as this section will be covered with litho plate there wasnt realy a need but as i said... as this is my tribute i will cut no corners on this build, only strive to improve on my previous builds.

Hope you like the progress so far, it will get better as we go along.

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The 16g cross peice wires are fixed to the struts by wraping round fuse wire. Anchor hooks also have to be bent into shape and bound at the same time, once in place and everything is square the top cabane is removed and the fuse wire solderd then the whole thing is removed and the bottom joints are solderd and then it is re assembled again.

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[yak face]

Just amazing andy, the work going into this is unbelievable, keep it up mate, cheers tony

 

[Guest]

Thanks Tony, appreciate your kind words.

Cheers

andy

 

[spanner570]

Andy, I've been quietly following this from the off....Your personal reason for doing it and the work itself.

You are one top bloke and no mistake.

Ron

 

[Guest]

Ron, Thank you for your kind words and thoughts. I have my heart in this build and it should be my best ever work, past and future. If i never build another as good as this i wont mind. I have already decided that some of the work on the dash is rubbish and will be re-doing it again. I have found a small 1 man company that can do the fuel selector and clock lables on proper trafalite and engrave it for me. The clocks i have coverd thanks to Graham and i have sourced the materials for the clock housings. In the end the dash should look a million times better.

Thanks again.

Andy

 

[Guest]

Andy some great looking progress. Do you use an incedence meter on the wings? I've built a few Rc Bipes and that was always a challenge when soldering the top support wires.

 

[Guest]

Trey, i have been lucky with this one as all of the cabanes are premade, its just a case of putting it together. I hope they have got it right lol.

Cheers

Andy

 

[colin m]

Andy, your build is quite amazing. The drive needed to undertake a project like this I suspect is beyond me, but I really look forward to continuing to watch this develop.

Regards

Colin M.....

 

[Guest]

Thanks Colin. This one is special to me and will be beyond my limits but for the very reason i am building it i know that i can pull it off.

Thanks

Andy

 

[Guest]

Well, i spent this week doing a little metal work. I covered the Fuel tank with litho plate and 2mm rivits. The rivit lines are deliberate to add that extra bit of scale. The panels of the tank fall short, this is because there is another panel that overlaps this and i will make it later on. The fuel filler cap is made out of the good old evergreen styrene and is painted to give it that old tarnished brass look. From here i will now concentrate on making the clocks as i have managed to find some nylon round section bar at 60mm diameter. Now i get to use the lathe for the second time in 2 years lol. It might sound expensive to have brought it and only used it once but its a valuable peice of kit to own because if you need to make parts like this, a lathe is worth its weight in gold.

Hope you like it so far.

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Cheers

Andy

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