discussion Annealing PE?

[BattleshipBob]

Now i know what annealing is ( not that thick, honest) but how hot and for how long??

I have a lighter but not sure?

Sorry if it seams a bit of a silly question

Ta bob

 

[Jon Heptonstall]

Hi Bob.
A ciggie lighter works fine for smaller bits.It just needs to get red hot for a second or two.I only anneal for curvy bits.
Jon.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Bob.
A ciggie lighter works fine for smaller bits.It just needs to get red hot for a second or two.I only anneal for curvy bits.
Jon.

Thanks Jon

Appreciated, bob

 

[Mini Me]

For Brass I wouldn't go to Red hot to anneal.......could cause sagging or deformation......for something this thin just the color change to dull red or even less is sufficient with a quick quench. Been annealing brass cartridge cases for years......Rick H.

 

[BattleshipBob]

For Brass I wouldn't go to Red hot to anneal.......could cause sagging or deformation......for something this thin just the color change to dull red or even less is sufficient with a quick quench. Been annealing brass cartridge cases for years......Rick H.

Many thanks Rick, very much appreciated

 

[Dave Ward]

If you don't have a ciggy lighter ( I ditched mine when I stopped smoking 20 years ago! ) I didn't - I bought some of these

Made for lighting gas burners - you can get them at really cheap prices & are a lot more comfortable than a ciggy lighter!
Dave

 

[stillp]

Be careful that very thin parts don't overheat Bob. If you have an old PE fret you could put the part of the fret you want to anneal on top of a wide part of the old fret and heat that with your lighter.
Pete

 

[Steve Jones]

JR invites Bob around for his latest PE annealing session

 

[BattleshipBob]

If you don't have a ciggy lighter ( I ditched mine when I stopped smoking 20 years ago! ) I didn't - I bought some of these
View attachment 420149
Made for lighting gas burners - you can get them at really cheap prices & are a lot more comfortable than a ciggy lighter!
Dave

Thanks Dave, got a ciggy lighter, never smoked lol

Be careful that very thin parts don't overheat Bob. If you have an old PE fret you could put the part of the fret you want to anneal on top of a wide part of the old fret and heat that with your lighter.
Pete

Thats a good idea Pete!!

JR invites Bob around for his latest PE annealing session

Cracking, not yet hot enough!

 

[Mini Me]

Hey Steve, That looks like my place last Saturday night.......had the kids and grand kids out for a BBQ and a Bonfire.......no joke, at least that big. burned for 2 days. :thumb2: Rick H.

 

[adt70hk]

JR invites Bob around for his latest PE annealing session

Count me in!!

 

[yak face]

Might seem obvious bob but make sure you hold the pe with pliers , it conducts heat VERY fast !

 

[Guest]

Silly question.

Why do you anneal what difference does it make.

I have been using PE for 20 years. Should I change procedures ?

Laurie

 

[yak face]

Silly question.

Why do you anneal what difference does it make.

I have been using PE for 20 years. Should I change procedures ?

Laurie

It makes it more flexible laurie - easier to fold box shapes and drape seat belts better . Done before painting so obviously not recommended for the pre painted PE frets ( eduard Zoom etc )

 

[Tim Marlow]

It can also make some grades of brass too soft to work properly so It’s best to trial it first on scrap etch. I honestly think it’s only really of use on things like seat belts. If the brass is too soft it can make things worse rather than better....
Anything that has a regular shape or constant curve should be bent around formers. If you are likely to use a lot of etch brass in your modelling, the best investment you can probably make is a pair of high quality box jointed flat jawed pliers. Almost all of the small bends you need to make can be quickly and easily formed with them.

 

[Guest]

It makes it more flexible laurie - easier to fold box shapes and drape seat belts better . Done before painting so obviously not recommended for the pre painted PE frets ( eduard Zoom etc )

Thanks Tony. next Question why in 20 years has this been a secret. :tongue-out3:

It can also make some grades of brass too soft to work properly so It’s best to trial it first on scrap etch. I honestly think it’s only really of use on things like seat belts. If the brass is too soft it can make things worse rather than better....
Anything that has a regular shape or constant curve should be bent around formers. If you are likely to use a lot of etch brass in your modelling, the best investment you can probably make is a pair of high quality box jointed flat jawed pliers. Almost all of the small bends you need to make can be quickly and easily formed with them.

Just shows how we are all different Tim. My pliers are all in a box. I use a Hold & Fold Small Shop the large mode. Expensive (tried cheap first) but sturdy & so many facilities.

Plus being vintage I find it easier to position with two (vintage) hands loose. Horses for Courses or let your friends direct your movies .

Laurie

 

[BattleshipBob]

The reason why i asked is the PE seams stiff and the chap i watched on YT mentioned this so used a candle??

 

[Tim Marlow]

The thing to be aware of Bob is that annealing does make it easier to put bends in PE, but it doesn’t necessarily make it easier to put a clean bend in PE.

 

[Dave Ward]

Annealing can also help if you've made an error! Trying to undo a poor bend can cause the material to crack ( work hardening ), annealing the bend will soften it & give you another chance...............
Dave

 

[Guest]

Annealing can also help if you've made an error! Trying to undo a poor bend can cause the material to crack ( work hardening ), annealing the bend will soften it & give you another chance...............
Dave

In my case Dave how many chances :tongue-out3:

Laurie