Pleased with the cab clean up
Just a little clean up of a few whiskers, but looking good
Dave
Just a little clean up of a few whiskers, but looking good
Dave
FDM PLA 3D printing - with a model making inclination
- Thread starter Dave Ward
- Start date
In March - post #75 - I said that I had paid for the files of a Matilda I. I didn't get very far with this, I just had problems with the software, and frankly it was far too advanced for me to try to print then. I've returned to this, and whilst my printer is churning out bits for the MT-T, I've been working on the Matilda, and I think ( hope! ) I've got it to the stage where I can try to print it! The tracks were the parts that defeated me the first time, and now, with a bit more experience with the software & the printer, I'm going to give it a go.
I've been using an Alpha release of PrusaSlicer ( 2.6.0 ), and it seems to have a few more features, that could be useful. Like all prints this is going to take a long time, and it's not something I want to leave running overnight, as it could all go pear-shaped! - so daylight hours only!
Dave
I've been using an Alpha release of PrusaSlicer ( 2.6.0 ), and it seems to have a few more features, that could be useful. Like all prints this is going to take a long time, and it's not something I want to leave running overnight, as it could all go pear-shaped! - so daylight hours only!
Dave
To print the Matilda tracks, I had to 'simplify' the files. It's an automatic procedure in PrusaSlicer, that you can select the degree of simplification. As they were originally, the software would not slice the files, it simply locked up ( really locked up - I had to reboot the computer! ). After simplification the tracks were sliced ( it still took about 10 minutes )
Here's the result of the mornings print
Front & back - the back still has a 'raft' attached, as I thought that would be needed to keep the print still attached to the build plate! Does look rather bizarre in blue.....................
Top view - the actual tracks are the band at the bottom, the rest is support material - as the suspension attachment points stick quite a way out.
I printed this part on it's back, as I didn't want to obscure the detail on the wheels/idlers/sprockets.
It took just under 5 hours too print - most of which was printing the supports! Removing these will be a careful procedure!
The other side tracks are printing now - the hull will have to wait until tomorrow, as the software predicts that's going to take over 8 hours.
A successful morning!
Dave
Here's the result of the mornings print
Front & back - the back still has a 'raft' attached, as I thought that would be needed to keep the print still attached to the build plate! Does look rather bizarre in blue.....................
Top view - the actual tracks are the band at the bottom, the rest is support material - as the suspension attachment points stick quite a way out.
I printed this part on it's back, as I didn't want to obscure the detail on the wheels/idlers/sprockets.
It took just under 5 hours too print - most of which was printing the supports! Removing these will be a careful procedure!
The other side tracks are printing now - the hull will have to wait until tomorrow, as the software predicts that's going to take over 8 hours.
A successful morning!
Dave
The Matilda I is a problem in that respect, it does have an 'open plan' look, with only a vestigial mudguard on the drive wheels to hide anything
The Bovington example...............
Dave
Microsoft 3D builder lets you cut up STL files into chunks & save them as either STL or 3mf files, it's not very intuitive, but with a bit of trial and error it's quite easy! - it has loads of other functions, like repair, mirror etc & others which I can't recognise! I've only used it to split objects, and I need to really look into it to see its potential!
Dave
I've been looking for a model of the Mk.VII 'International' or 'Liberty' tank. Sadly, I couldn't finf a free model, so I've had to bite the bullet & pay for the files!
This cost me 9 Euros - instant download - theoretically I could be printing these files right now.
This is the tank that the 'Indiana Jones & the Last Crusade' tank was loosely based on.
I'll be printing this at 1/35............
Dave
This cost me 9 Euros - instant download - theoretically I could be printing these files right now.
This is the tank that the 'Indiana Jones & the Last Crusade' tank was loosely based on.
I'll be printing this at 1/35............
Dave
Looks good quality 3d image
9 Euros is a good price for a file like that.
It horrified me at first! - The first file I opened was the complete model in one single STL file, & in 1/35, it wouldn't fit on my build plate.Thankfully the other zipped folder has it broken down into print sized chunks - the tank is actually much bigger than I imagined!
It came from the 'Cult' website, there's quite a bit of free stuff, but a big percentage are 'pay', ranging in price from 2 Euros upwards!
Dave
So are you starting a digital stash Dave?
Pete
Pete
The Matilda hull is printing - 52% after 5 hours................
I cleaned up the tracks - here's a before and after
I printed out the turret - you can either print it with hatch open, or closed - I did it open to see if the printer would cope!
I looked & found a Mk.VIII - ( previous post ) - and I wondered if I could find any more of the inter-war tanks. I looked in vain for the Medium Mark B, and the Medium Mark C - in fact I looked on Scalemates, and there are only 2 1/35 resin models ( by Panzershop )! 100 B's were made & 50 C's, but no injection moulded model. Paper Panzers Yes, real tanks that existed - no. I suppose sales would not justify the tooling..............
I've looked for these as well
Vickers Independent
Birch Gun
Vickers Dragon Carrier - somehow I don't think I'll find any!
Dave
I cleaned up the tracks - here's a before and after
I printed out the turret - you can either print it with hatch open, or closed - I did it open to see if the printer would cope!
I looked & found a Mk.VIII - ( previous post ) - and I wondered if I could find any more of the inter-war tanks. I looked in vain for the Medium Mark B, and the Medium Mark C - in fact I looked on Scalemates, and there are only 2 1/35 resin models ( by Panzershop )! 100 B's were made & 50 C's, but no injection moulded model. Paper Panzers Yes, real tanks that existed - no. I suppose sales would not justify the tooling..............
I've looked for these as well
Vickers Independent
Birch Gun
Vickers Dragon Carrier - somehow I don't think I'll find any!
Dave
One model I did find, to my surprise was the British Super Heavy TOG 2
On display at Bovington
I suspect the camo may be bit too modern!
The model itself is in either 1/100 or 1/72 scale - I'd have to do a bit of measuring to see which. Either way, in 1/35 it wouldn't fit on the build plate without splitting. Another tank that may eventually join the queue for printing....................
Dave
On display at Bovington
I suspect the camo may be bit too modern!
The model itself is in either 1/100 or 1/72 scale - I'd have to do a bit of measuring to see which. Either way, in 1/35 it wouldn't fit on the build plate without splitting. Another tank that may eventually join the queue for printing....................
Dave
Now that’s something that shouldn’t have seen the light of day……very well worth modelling…..
State of play - I'm having problems printing parts for the MT-T - they fail at the same point on both the Anet & Monoprice printers, so I'm guessing it's a problem with the model, not the printers - a little more investigation needed.
I finished printing the Matilda I hull, and have been cleaning up the parts. They need a bit of fettling to get a good fit, but it's getting close to a primer coat..........................
I'm not going to post a thread on 'under construction' as there are only four parts! I will put up a completed post in the next few days.
Dave
I finished printing the Matilda I hull, and have been cleaning up the parts. They need a bit of fettling to get a good fit, but it's getting close to a primer coat..........................
I'm not going to post a thread on 'under construction' as there are only four parts! I will put up a completed post in the next few days.
Dave
Dave, a question. How to you deal with the print lines? Are these sanded off or do you fill them, or are they more visual and hte actuall surfaces are smooth right off the printer? Is there a way to print in higher resolution so as to avoid print lines?
I'm looking at getting a 3D printer, I understand that resin printers don't suffer from the line issue but I'm really leaning toward PLA.
I'm looking at getting a 3D printer, I understand that resin printers don't suffer from the line issue but I'm really leaning toward PLA.
It's a balance - the layer height can be from 0.4mm ( can't be thicker than the nozzle diameter ) down to whatever the printer is capable of ie 0,05mm - I generally print at 0.15. Of course this means that a 0.05mm print will take 3 times as long as a 0.15mm. Taking the Matilda hull, it took just over ten hours to print, at 0.15mm print height.
Speed - the slower you print, the better the quality is in general
Tuning - the printer has to be set up to maximise the quality - the drive belts correctly tensioned, the build plate levelled correctly, and temperature set to suit the filament used ( for PLA, 200C Nozzle 50C build plate )
The model - has to be error free, and the slicer software has to be tweaked to give the best results.
All of these things have to be juggled, to find the best for your model - often it seems that you have to do this for every single mode. It helps to have a lot of patience!
The print always looks a bit rough, which is why I like to get a coat of primer on it! You can sand PLA, drill it, but it has a low melting point, so power tools have to be carefully used. Gluing is by 2-part epoxy ( for big joints ) or CA for smaller bits. I believe you can use Acetone, but I've not tried that!
If you can accommodate it, a resin printer is better, but they have smaller build sizes, use toxis resins, produce unpleasant fumes & require post-printing washing & curing.
Cost wise - a spool of PLA is now about £14, which goes a long way! The resin model from Accurate Armour of the Matilda I sells for £74 & I reckon I could probably print off at least 4 from one spool.
The printer is the expensive bit, I was lucky, picking mine up cheap off ebay! New, you're looking at £150 to a lot, depending on the features you want.
3D printing is becoming more accessible, but you still have to be prepared to take the time to get the best out of your machine - rapid it isn't!
Dave
A few youtube people to look at
3dprintingpro @3dprintingpro212
modbot @ModBotArmy
UncleJessy @UncleJessy
Vogman @vogman
They show you what the printers they have and review can do, including close-ups of prints and explain any problems with a particular printer etc.
Thanks gents. 
It's the toxicity and small print size that put me off resin printers. Plus I won't just be using it for model stuff so the larger print bed of PLA appeals. I'm currently looking at the Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. It seems to have a lot of useful features, can accommodate pretty much all filament types, has the option to add laser engraving, and is at a reasonable price point.
This may change as I'm not looking to purchase until later in the year so something better might come along. At the moment I'm trying to get my head around Fusion 360, so I've got time to get better at that before purchasing a printer.
It's the toxicity and small print size that put me off resin printers. Plus I won't just be using it for model stuff so the larger print bed of PLA appeals. I'm currently looking at the Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro. It seems to have a lot of useful features, can accommodate pretty much all filament types, has the option to add laser engraving, and is at a reasonable price point.
This may change as I'm not looking to purchase until later in the year so something better might come along. At the moment I'm trying to get my head around Fusion 360, so I've got time to get better at that before purchasing a printer.
G
All confusing to me but interesting . Think you need a very knowledgeable engineering background coupled with a knowledge of computer drawing .
Still maybe I will learn more as this continues.
Still maybe I will learn more as this continues.
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