Theme editor

Scale Model Shop

A bizarre question......................

Dave Ward

New member
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
10,549
Reaction score
43
Points
0
1/3
Thread owner
I was talking to my elder brother, who has rediscovered model making, after a gap of 50 years or so, he's into Rally Cars ( Belkits Skoda being under way ), and he was complaining on the difficulty he has in adding transparencies. I'd suggested PVA, but he wasn't having much success.
He suddenly said " how about false eyelash glue? " I had absolutely no answer to that!
Has anyone heard of this being used/tried?
Dave
 
As far as i know...

It's liquid latex, so would work but don't think it would be good long term....
 
Humbrol Clearfix is good for making transparencies on a small scale
 
I use Deluxe Materials Glue n Glaze..... From what I gather it's some sort of PVA on steroids.

Hope he sorts it out.

ATB.

Andrew
 
Thread owner
Bro was having problems in keeping the windscreens for his cars in place - I dissuaded him from trying CA!!!
Dave
 
The glue and glaze takes a while to set, much like PVA but once set it seems pretty strong, although if you desperately need to get it out a sharp blade can help get the piece off.
 
Thread owner
The Glue n Glaze seems to go off in the bottle pretty quickly - I reckon I only used about half of it before it was unuseable..........
Dave
 
Zap formula 560 also works well. I suspect it’s the same stuff as glue n glaze, because Andrews description tallies with my experience.

 
The Glue n Glaze seems to go off in the bottle pretty quickly - I reckon I only used about half of it before it was unuseable..........
Dave
My Zap 560 is a few years old now (pre dates me joining this forum) is still liquid, and still works well.
 
Agree with Tim zap seems to work well,if I haven't used it for a while I may have to dig out the end of the nozzle.
 
Humbrol Clearfix works well for glueing clear pieces in as well as filling openings that should be glazed, ut beware that it dissolves paint — so even though you’re not getting glue stains on the windscreen, you might end up smearing some of that paint over them anyway …
 
HI Dave well i use C/A when gluein in my bridge windows on my ships an it glues great an the light green acetate dont come out
chrisb
 
I use Deluxe Glue n Glaze for all my plastic strip and film windows .
Think there is a Contacta which does the same .
 
I'm happy with Microscale's "Micro Liquitape". It's intended to temporarily hold parts, but dries clear and the hold is quite strong nonetheless.
 
I'm happy with Microscale's "Micro Liquitape". It's intended to temporarily hold parts, but dries clear and the hold is quite strong nonetheless.
To clarify, it doesn't dry hard like CA , but I've used it on occasion as a final fixer for odd parts, with success. In this case for a window or windshield, I'd suspect that it would be fine to use.
 
theres two knacks with using ca with transparencies

first is to use some Johnsons Kleer (or humbrol equivalent).........acts as a barrier
second is, its not the glue that causes fogging.....its the fumes........so put a little splodge of ca on a bit of card and leave it for a few minutes for the fumes to 'evaporate' then use a toothpick to add the smallest amount needed

dont blame me if it goes wrong lol,......but it works for me
 
I have used slower setting epoxy, but it has to be used very, very carefully placing minute amounts from a cocktail stick.
PVA is much more forgiving, and many like to use it.
 
As the guys above have suggested, I trawled the suppliers trying to get Microscale's Liquitape.
The problem is that the importer doesn't bring that product line into the UK.
I tend to use the Microscale Kristal Klear. It is, in effect, a PVA glue.
Apply using a cocktail stick.
Very controllable. If any oozes out of the join; lick your finger and wipe while the glue is still wet.
It really does work and there's absolutely no fogging of the transparencies.
Got my son onto it too.
Regards,
John
 
Back
Top