discussion Model Filler reccomendations?

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Rather a strange questions , but I was wonder what people on here would recommend as a filler, I'm coming to the end of my Squadron filler, but to be honest its a little grainy for my liking, I do use Mr Surfacer 500 and 1000 for small imperfections but wondered what you'd reccomend, oh and I wanted to order it from the shop on here if possible

Adrian

 

[Alan 45]

I use Vallejo plastic putty it's easy to use and drys quickly

 

[Ian M]

I must admit that I like the good old humbrol filler. Some say it crack and shrinks but never had issues. (yet).

I use that for General surface and seams. I often thin it down with cellulose thinners and brush it into scratches.

For more robust filling I use Milliput. The white for fine work and the Yellow for general work. This stuff is hard as nails when cured but can be smoothed while wet with water. You can also sculpt thinks with it!

The Vallejo putty is good as well for quick work. Again water is a good smoothing agent. I find that it can crumble if very thin areas are covered.

Ian M

 

[Lee W]

I use Milliput, I think it's grey and yellow...its that old it's probably gone off colour I also use the Green Stuff (I think it's called that!?) for minor imperfections and small holes

Lee

 

[Guest]

I use Humbrol and to be honest never tried anything else (on plastic kits, wood is another story) I have to agree with with Ian not had a problem with shrinking or cracks.

 

[Peej]

I use Revell Plasto. Seems ok as long as you don't try to do too much at once. Sands down well and doesn't seem to shrink. Bought it a while ago before I realised there was so many different ones.

 

[Guest]

Adrian I use Mr Surfacer 500 for the majority of filling. If the gap is to large I fill with slithers o plastic sheets using Tamiya thin. Then build up with layers of 500.

Any small bits especially on curved surfaces I use Vallejo putty filler. I use a wet finger normally to get a smoothish finish to avoid to much sanding. Also used a wet brush to fashion the finish.

Laurie

 

[flyjoe180]

I use Tamiya putty. No problems with it, cleans and thins with lacquer thinners. Stinks a lot. Many have had issues with it but it's never let me down. Have heard rave reviews for Humbrol filler, just yet to actually need a replacement tube but will most likely try this next.

 

[yak face]

I use a combination of Squadron Green stuff , Humbrol, and Vallejo plastic putty. The squadron is ok in that it dries fairly quick and wet sands easily but as you say Adrian it can be a bit grainy and porous , sometimes requiring another coat . The humbrol I have found is a lot finer and maybe a bit harder to sand but gives a nice smooth finish and will only shrink and crack if youre putting it on really thick.Finally the Vallejo , which is more or less just Acrylic 'Painters mate' but in a tiny tube. This is different to the other two as its acrylic in formula so can be cleaned up with a wet finger/paintbrush etc. but has the disadvantage of not bonding to the plastic like the Humbrol and squadron products do ,as theyre solvent based. I find i use the Vallejo for wiping into seams that are too big but dont need filling flush ,ie. a wing or tailplane joint that is actually a panel line so still needs to be visible or such as round the bottom of canopies . hope this helps cheers tony

 

[colin m]

It's a good question Adrian, one I've often wondered myself. But just look at the range of responses and all of us seem happy enough with our choices. Oh, me. Well I use Vallejo for the reasons Tony mentions and squadron greenstuff for the bigger jobs. But I'm interested in this Mr surface stuff, I think I need to learn more about this...

 

[BarryW]

I also use the Vallejo filler but also use Mr Surfacer 500 and Mr Dissolved Putty.

The latter is excellent for its self-levelling properties.

 

[Guest]

I find the deluxe plastic putty works great, hardly shrinks very easy to rub down, and can use a wet finger or cotton bud on it to smooth it out / rub access away.

comes with a nozzle as well not that ever used it lol

 

[stona]

Milliput or my own CA glue mix (with talcum powder or baking powder) neither of which shrink like all solvent based fillers. I do sometimes use Mr White Putty for minor imperfections as well as Mr Surfacer.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Gern]

I find the deluxe plastic putty works great, hardly shrinks very easy to rub down, and can use a wet finger or cotton bud on it to smooth it out / rub access away.comes with a nozzle as well not that ever used it lol

I've just started using this too. It's very similar to Vallejo putty - which I also tried - until I got fed up of it drying in the nozzle of the tube!

View attachment 88826


The syringe allows you more control over how much and where the putty goes if you need to - and it takes two minutes to clean out with running tap water and a cotton bud!

I also use PVA for sealing small gaps between vertical surfaces. Here's a link to a video showing how:

Gern

PS That's not me in the video! I'd give my left arm up to the elbow for modelling skills like this guy!

View attachment 201849

 

[stona]

PVA! a good point Gern. I use it for filling very small gaps, particularly around clear parts like canopies where some solvent based fillers will cloud the part. I actually keep an old bottle which has thickened up slightly over time for this purpose.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I never even thought of PVA what a great idea. Your all right it seems each to there own, I do have the Milliput as well but found it annoying to have to mix it together each time I wanted anything filled.

So it looks like the Humbrol and Perfect Plastic putty are most popular.

Adrian

 

[tr1ckey66]

Hi Adrian

I personally use a variety of fillers and putty and the choice boils down to their application on the model. Humbrol, Squadron, Mr Surfacer, Milliput, Magic Sculp, CA etc, etc all have their uses.

If you're after a good all-round filler 'paste' as opposed to 'putty' then Humbrol is pretty darn good. If it's putty you're after then Fine milliput is good too.

It's worth getting to know the properties of a variety of fillers though, they all have their plus points depending on purpose.

Hope this helps

P

 

[The Migrant]

Some interesting posts. I've tried just about every filler there is, but personally I keep coming back to CA glue. Zapped with an accelerator it dries instantly and doesn't shrink, polishes up to a smooth hard finish much like styrene, and is completely non-porous when it comes to painting. It's not good for rescribing over, and if left to dry too long it's a beggar to sand, but other than that it's great for gap-filling.

I tried the Perfect Plastic Putty and wasn't too impressed, but reading this thread I may be using it wrongly, so I'll have another go. I did like its consistency (almost like toothpaste).

 

[stona]

I do like CA as a filler. The point above about sanding is very important. If you allow the glue to cure for too long it will become harder than the surrounding plastic and therefore almost impossible to sand to a flush finish with the surrounding area.

I usually sand my glue or homemade CA filler mixture very soon after it has solidified. We're talking seconds, not minutes in most cases.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Guest]

To expand on 500 Surfacer.

The very nice thing I have found is that it bonds so well with the plastic. Sanding dry until nearing level with the plastic then wet and drying to level and finish.

The best of its many advantages is that it does not break away a the fine edges as a lot of other fillers do. Neither does it form a ridge at the meeting of the filler and plastic. It does have a very similar texture and compatible hardness.

Also a great advantage. Rescribing panel lines. Having a compatible similar hardness it is so easy to replace panel lines as the join between plastic and filler does no crumble as I have found other fillers have a great tendency to do just that.

One point with Surfacer 500 do your filling before priming.

Laurie