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Undo Contacta glue?

Modler bob

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Thread owner
Hi guys.
I finally bodged up the Seafire FR47.
So I bought another on eBay (I'm determined :smiling3:)

Anyway, I still want to do the FR47 (wings uo), so gonna have another go ith the new kit.
I've already Revell contacta glued some of the parts but thought I'd like to build the FR46 (wings down) if possible with the existing kit to save wasting it, and have both to present to my wife.

Is it possible to unglue some of these bits to rectify it.... ie, the wings?
hope this makes sense :smiling3:

Bob
 
Is it possible to unglue some of these bits to rectify it.... ie, the wings?
Sorry to hear that Bob. I don't think you're likely to succeed, since any solvent that will soften the Contacta will also dissolve the plastic of the kit. Tamiya Extra Thin will soften both.
Good luck
Pete
 
A lot of these styrene cements and not really glues. They are plastic solvents. They work by dissolving the styrene in the join, the solvent evaporates and the two parts are welded together. As Pete says you might be able to paint the join with a thin styrene cement and it may wick in a nd allow you to prize the parts apart. Risky. A razor saw may work if the joint is straight.
 
Thanks Andrew. :thumb2:

It is not guaranteed to work 100% of the time but it works on other glues as well, such as superglue. A bonus of this method is that you can have an ice-cream when you put it in the freezer and have another one when you take it out.

Dave
 
Thanks Andrew. :thumb2:

It is not guaranteed to work 100% of the time but it works on other glues as well, such as superglue. A bonus of this method is that you can have an ice-cream when you put it in the freezer and have another one when you take it out.

Dave
You sir are a genius!!! ;) :smiling5:
 
Thanks Andrew. :thumb2:

It is not guaranteed to work 100% of the time but it works on other glues as well, such as superglue. A bonus of this method is that you can have an ice-cream when you put it in the freezer and have another one when you take it out.

Dave
This has to be tip of the year.

I can see it working with CA, PVA and other 'glue' like things. However poly cement that melts plastic together... I think the plastic will snap befor the joint does.
I have had some luck with thin types of liquid poly cement but only on not fully cured joints.
 
Great tip from Dave‘s old Airfix kit recovery service there….

I’ve had glued joints fail spectacularly when using enamel washes. It’s happened with both Mig and home brewed using oils and white spirit. It’s why I stopped using them. Wicking in clean enamel thinners or white spirit might therefore help loosen the more stubborn joints that the freezer doesn’t touch.
 
I’ve had glued joints fail spectacularly when using enamel washes.
Same, but generally only small parts, like mirrors coming off trucks. I found it depended on which kind of thinner I used, though (in the Netherlands, we’ve got two different things that would both be called white spirit in the UK; it happened every time with one but never with the other).

Still, it could be worth a shot to try and loosen a joint. Test the thinner first on the same kit’s sprue, though: let a piece of that soak in it for a few hours to make sure it won’t just melt it.
 
My worst example took two whole runs of single link tracks for a German half track right back to component parts Jakko. They had been assembled with Contacta, hence the relevance to the original post.
 
Thread owner
I am just looking at my newer seafire FR 46/47 destructions, and I need several more colours for the build, which I think is the original kit.
Not a problem as I have the colour chart, and a model shop with most, if not all.
But just wondering if Humbrol has brought out their newer Enamel's without the ingredient that scared them across the pond yet? :smiling3:
 
@Modler bob Bob, put the parts in a polybag and leave in a freezer for 24/48 hours. Take out and gently prise glued parts apart.

Dave
I've heard that one before, but it didn't work for me. Worth a try though, if you have room in the freezer.
Pete
 
Thread owner
Luckily our shopping for the week is tomorrow, so I have put it in a bag in the freezer and will see what happens tomorrow :thumb2:
If this works Iaan (Mr Muddle) I'll recommend you for the modeller's award of the year :)
 
Luckily our shopping for the week is tomorrow, so I have put it in a bag in the freezer and will see what happens tomorrow :thumb2:
Just remember it when the time comes, otherwise what will happen tomorrow is it will get squashed by the shopping :tongue-out3:
 
Thread owner
I am just looking at my newer seafire FR 46/47 destructions, and I need several more colours for the build, which I think is the original kit.
Not a problem as I have the colour chart, and a model shop with most, if not all.
But just wondering if Humbrol has brought out their newer Enamel's without the ingredient that scared them across the pond yet? :smiling3:
Does anyone know about Humbrol newest supply?
Someone said they will be bringing them out in Sept, true/false?
 
Thread owner
Update..........
The Freezer advice works to a certain degree on loosely applied Contacta, but couldn't part the wings.
Probably my fault for applying too much of it to make sure it's truly fixed :)
It deffo worked on the ailerons and air-intake though.
Oh well, on with the other new-ish kit. :thinking:
 
Thread owner
update 2........
Managed to part the wings using my Stanley knife :astonished:
The glue had indeed loosened enough for me to cut through the joins.
Will have two versions of this beautiful creature now.
Happy days
 
Great tip from Dave‘s old Airfix kit recovery service there….

I’ve had glued joints fail spectacularly when using enamel washes. It’s happened with both Mig and home brewed using oils and white spirit. It’s why I stopped using them. Wicking in clean enamel thinners or white spirit might therefore help loosen the more stubborn joints that the freezer doesn’t touch.
Tim, it has happened to me as well...its local turpentine and I used it a lot with oils for wash and parts started to come apart at the joints. Don't do that anymore.

Cheers,
Richard
 
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