Cracking progress Gromit.... 
Steven’s 1/48 Spitfire Mk.IIa
- Thread starter Steven000
- Start date
Steve
That's coming on beautifully and LOVE the idea of the white cliffs, with the Spit flying over the top. A very clever idea!
Very well done indeed!!!!
ATB
Andrew
That's coming on beautifully and LOVE the idea of the white cliffs, with the Spit flying over the top. A very clever idea!
Very well done indeed!!!!
ATB
Andrew
Thanks guys,
So I arrived at the 'decal' stage... Here's the sheet that comes with the kit :
Started with the roundels on the lower wing to see how they react, I'm using Micro Set and Sol.
I noticed quite some transparent areas, especially around the letters, so I tried cutting it off around the outlines to avoid silvering - The excess slid right off with the push of a blade tip...
After applying Set and Sol the decals didn't seem to deform much as I'm used to, so I added Mr Mark softer, still not much response so I let that dry overnight...
- R e m o v i n g . T r a n s p a r e n t . F i l m -
Plasmo has a video about removing the Eduard transparent film with lighter fluid - Tim Marlow also posted a topic about that in 2023.
Because I use Vallejo paints instead of lacquers I asked chatgpt about it and it responded that it was 'very risky since I already used Mr Mark softer on the decals' - lighter fluid could then damage the Vallejo paint.
So I decided to leave the transparent film on and add some more softer. To help the decals conform to the panel lines I carefully made some cuts into the panel lines and noted the transparent film seemed to come loose at those spots. So I tried peeling it off with tweezers and as you can see in the pics it worked quite well, you do need to get under the film to get it started.
The underside took the longest, of all the decals these had received the most softener because of the tricky raised details. It did all come off, in tiny pieces. Some decals got a bit damaged but I'll fix that with paint later.
Transparent film battlefield...
The walk-lines need to be under the roundels, so I had to cut them to length to match the roundels,
At the moment I'm mostly done adding decals, I just added the walk-lines so tomorrow I'll try peeling off their transparent film...
That's all for now, thanks for reading
So I arrived at the 'decal' stage... Here's the sheet that comes with the kit :
Started with the roundels on the lower wing to see how they react, I'm using Micro Set and Sol.
I noticed quite some transparent areas, especially around the letters, so I tried cutting it off around the outlines to avoid silvering - The excess slid right off with the push of a blade tip...
After applying Set and Sol the decals didn't seem to deform much as I'm used to, so I added Mr Mark softer, still not much response so I let that dry overnight...
- R e m o v i n g . T r a n s p a r e n t . F i l m -
Plasmo has a video about removing the Eduard transparent film with lighter fluid - Tim Marlow also posted a topic about that in 2023.
Because I use Vallejo paints instead of lacquers I asked chatgpt about it and it responded that it was 'very risky since I already used Mr Mark softer on the decals' - lighter fluid could then damage the Vallejo paint.
So I decided to leave the transparent film on and add some more softer. To help the decals conform to the panel lines I carefully made some cuts into the panel lines and noted the transparent film seemed to come loose at those spots. So I tried peeling it off with tweezers and as you can see in the pics it worked quite well, you do need to get under the film to get it started.
The underside took the longest, of all the decals these had received the most softener because of the tricky raised details. It did all come off, in tiny pieces. Some decals got a bit damaged but I'll fix that with paint later.
Transparent film battlefield...
The walk-lines need to be under the roundels, so I had to cut them to length to match the roundels,
At the moment I'm mostly done adding decals, I just added the walk-lines so tomorrow I'll try peeling off their transparent film...
That's all for now, thanks for reading
Your Spitfire is looking superb Steven. Those Eduard decals are weird!
Great work steven , as Joe says the Eduard decals are really weird , I get where theyre coming from - trying to minimise silvering but the whole peeling off operation is fraught with danger and often results in damage which has to then be touched up . Ive read its possible to just use them as normal but like most decals the glossiness of the surface theyre applied to is one of the most important factors .
Thanks guys,
Well after removing the transparent film I added another coat of Vallejo gloss varnish over the decals which ended up in some drama - Perhaps I sprayed too much on for the first layer, the varnish ended up 'spotting' ...
I tried to lightly sand the surface the next day but it's still a bit rough, should have masked the roundels instead of using decals I guess!
So with the plane not progressing much I continued working on the small base.
I'm using this image from google as the main reference,
First added a finer coat of (backyard) sand to the top with wood glue. Some minor rock refinements with putty,
The cliffs were glued to the Ikea base with super-glue. The gap was filled with a mix of sand and wood glue to make up the beach.
For the water I kept it simple, I just smeared on more putty with a small pallet knife, trying to keep the 'high' spot on the beach-side,
When dry I added a black coat with a spray can - Then brushed on a light brown base color (vallejo)
Blue base color (vallejo) for the ocean - When still wet I tried to blend in some colors mixed from green/blue/black paint,
I started lighten the cliffs by dry-brushing a mix of white/beige, small waves were added with white - Added green colors for the grass,
I kept on lighten the cliffs by dry-brushing more and more white into the mix - VMS gloss varnish was added to the water, more greens,
As you can see the base is quite small but it sort of gives the impression the Spitfire is flying high above the cliffs.
The roundels were sanded a bit smoother and gloss varnish was brushed on - Next is a panel wash...
Thanks for reading Cheers
Well after removing the transparent film I added another coat of Vallejo gloss varnish over the decals which ended up in some drama - Perhaps I sprayed too much on for the first layer, the varnish ended up 'spotting' ...
I tried to lightly sand the surface the next day but it's still a bit rough, should have masked the roundels instead of using decals I guess!
So with the plane not progressing much I continued working on the small base.
I'm using this image from google as the main reference,
First added a finer coat of (backyard) sand to the top with wood glue. Some minor rock refinements with putty,
The cliffs were glued to the Ikea base with super-glue. The gap was filled with a mix of sand and wood glue to make up the beach.
For the water I kept it simple, I just smeared on more putty with a small pallet knife, trying to keep the 'high' spot on the beach-side,
When dry I added a black coat with a spray can - Then brushed on a light brown base color (vallejo)
Blue base color (vallejo) for the ocean - When still wet I tried to blend in some colors mixed from green/blue/black paint,
I started lighten the cliffs by dry-brushing a mix of white/beige, small waves were added with white - Added green colors for the grass,
I kept on lighten the cliffs by dry-brushing more and more white into the mix - VMS gloss varnish was added to the water, more greens,
As you can see the base is quite small but it sort of gives the impression the Spitfire is flying high above the cliffs.
The roundels were sanded a bit smoother and gloss varnish was brushed on - Next is a panel wash...
Thanks for reading
Cheers
That base is just superb steven , its going to look brilliant. Cheers tony
Well done on sorting those decals. I didn't realise Eduard decals were made like this and to be honest its enough to put you off using them so well done Steve. As Tony points out the base is incredible, top work.
This is coming on really nicely Steve. The base is a great touch that will lift your build above the norm.
In my experience the Eduard decals are among the best out there. They settle well, are just the right strength to handle nicely without creasing or tearing, and are excellent for colour accuracy. They don’t have to be stripped, and will handle as well as any without going to these lengths. If you do want to try it though, it really is easy, and leaves you with an image that is as close to a painted decoration as you can get without actually painting one. I start by lifting an edge with a scalpel, then pulling the cover film off at a very oblique angle away from the lifted edge. I don’t tend to bother with small decals or stencils.
However, it is only decals after a certain point in time that have these characteristics. Some of the older ones are the same as everyone else’s. I can’t remember the date cut off, but a quick search should show you the relevant information. They were not designed to be stripped, by the way, it’s just a by product of the method used to make them.
In my experience the Eduard decals are among the best out there. They settle well, are just the right strength to handle nicely without creasing or tearing, and are excellent for colour accuracy. They don’t have to be stripped, and will handle as well as any without going to these lengths. If you do want to try it though, it really is easy, and leaves you with an image that is as close to a painted decoration as you can get without actually painting one. I start by lifting an edge with a scalpel, then pulling the cover film off at a very oblique angle away from the lifted edge. I don’t tend to bother with small decals or stencils.
However, it is only decals after a certain point in time that have these characteristics. Some of the older ones are the same as everyone else’s. I can’t remember the date cut off, but a quick search should show you the relevant information. They were not designed to be stripped, by the way, it’s just a by product of the method used to make them.
Outstanding work Steven. I can't wait to see the completed scene
Brillaint work Steven. I actually thought the 'Eduard decal effect' was a bit of an accident, meaning, I don't think Eduard intended for this to happen.
Thanks for all the comments
@Tim Marlow, they were easy to put on in one piece indeed. My only issue was getting them to conform to the surface which took a lot of Micro-Sol and mark softer, although it seemed to work in the end. What are you using for softening?
Also looked up the date for the peel-off, looks like that is 'June 23, 2020'. Cheers
Still working on the Spitfire...
First I made a new 3D printed spinner, I took the side view of the color scheme as a blueprint for the shape. The Eduard prop has a 1,5mm (0,059") shaft, so I designed the new spinner with a hole so a 1,5mm steel rod can be inserted in both spinner and fuselage.
On my P-47D I made a spinning propeller with a transparent sheet, this time I'm trying a spinner without the propeller. I've put the shaft into a small Dremel tool (lowest speed) and then added a faded black line to simulate where the prop is moving...
The exhaust parts were painted in black and aluminium. Next I added some washes, mixed from brown, black and some blue.
I added the exhaust stains on the fuselage, first a grey (lead) color and then a mix of black and brown.
Then I glued the exhaust pieces in place, some white was dry-brushed onto the 2nd and 3rd exhaust pipe to simulate the 'lead' deposits from the leaded fuel (seems to be yellow too).
I glued the antenna mast and morse-nav-light on top of the fuselage. The mirror is now also installed on the canopy. Some chipping with aluminium is painted on the panel edges. The spinner is glued with 'Micro Klear' so I can replace it later if I want.
Some oil leaks and smoke effects on the underside, also painted the tires black.
That's all for now, some small things to do but getting near the end of the build
Thanks for reading, cheers
@Tim Marlow, they were easy to put on in one piece indeed. My only issue was getting them to conform to the surface which took a lot of Micro-Sol and mark softer, although it seemed to work in the end. What are you using for softening?
Also looked up the date for the peel-off, looks like that is 'June 23, 2020'. Cheers
Still working on the Spitfire...
First I made a new 3D printed spinner, I took the side view of the color scheme as a blueprint for the shape. The Eduard prop has a 1,5mm (0,059") shaft, so I designed the new spinner with a hole so a 1,5mm steel rod can be inserted in both spinner and fuselage.
On my P-47D I made a spinning propeller with a transparent sheet, this time I'm trying a spinner without the propeller. I've put the shaft into a small Dremel tool (lowest speed) and then added a faded black line to simulate where the prop is moving...
The exhaust parts were painted in black and aluminium. Next I added some washes, mixed from brown, black and some blue.
I added the exhaust stains on the fuselage, first a grey (lead) color and then a mix of black and brown.
Then I glued the exhaust pieces in place, some white was dry-brushed onto the 2nd and 3rd exhaust pipe to simulate the 'lead' deposits from the leaded fuel (seems to be yellow too).
I glued the antenna mast and morse-nav-light on top of the fuselage. The mirror is now also installed on the canopy. Some chipping with aluminium is painted on the panel edges. The spinner is glued with 'Micro Klear' so I can replace it later if I want.
Some oil leaks and smoke effects on the underside, also painted the tires black.
That's all for now, some small things to do but getting near the end of the build
Thanks for reading, cheers
Hiya. I use micro sol and micro set to soften and settle them. Looking very good is this one . Like the exhausts as well. I tend to use the lifecolor rust set and give it a wash of indigo blue. Looks similar , but yours has the more interesting variations….
. Like the exhausts as well. I tend to use the lifecolor rust set and give it a wash of indigo blue. Looks similar , but yours has the more interesting variations….
Thanks for the info Tim
Forgot to mention in the last update that the whole plane got a Satin poly varnish (vallejo) for the final finish - I diluted it 10-15% and it sprayed a lot better.
This evening I did some touching up, then the best part of any airplane build - Unmasking the canopy!
I used 'Mig .02mm rigging wire' and superglue for the antenna wires. It's a bit unclear but the instructions mention only the 'stabilizer-fuselage antennas', not the 'rudder-mast' wire. It seems that last one was no longer added at a certain point in time. After some googling I did add them all.
Next I stuck the steel rod into English soil and called it done!
You can find more pics in the completed section here.
Many thanks for watching and wish you all a good time at the bench
Forgot to mention in the last update that the whole plane got a Satin poly varnish (vallejo) for the final finish - I diluted it 10-15% and it sprayed a lot better.
This evening I did some touching up, then the best part of any airplane build - Unmasking the canopy!
I used 'Mig .02mm rigging wire' and superglue for the antenna wires. It's a bit unclear but the instructions mention only the 'stabilizer-fuselage antennas', not the 'rudder-mast' wire. It seems that last one was no longer added at a certain point in time. After some googling I did add them all.
Next I stuck the steel rod into English soil and called it done!
You can find more pics in the completed section here.
Many thanks for watching and wish you all a good time at the bench
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The whole ‘White Cliffs’ base is inspired! I’d say this is artistry.
Absolutely top class Steve. That is just lovely. Great job.
Wonderful Steven, top notch work
A splendid result, well done.
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